CONSULAR EXPERIENCES IN TURKEY. 
433 
I believe, to Europeans. Instead of going the usual way, via Bitlis, I 
struck from the south-eastern angle of the Lake of Yan into the 
mountains. Crossing a low ridge, we entered a valley running in a 
south-westerly direction. A curious feature of the formation of the 
country south of the Lake of Yan is the rivers that have their rise 
within a mile or two of the lake, but run away from it. 
We followed this valley down through scenery reminding one 
strongly of parts of Switzerland. The valley was shut in by steep 
rocky mountains covered in part with forest and, where lateral valleys 
came in, glimpses could be obtained of higher mountains in the back¬ 
ground—at this time of year carrying much snow on their higher 
shoulders. 
At one place where the river makes a sharp bend to the east, we left 
it for a time and crossed a ridge to the village of Karasu, lying in a 
small plain among the hills. Here I was very hospitably entertained 
by Salih Bey, a Kurdish chief, who gave up to me a separate Kiosk in his 
grounds. 
The next day we crossed a low ridge into a most romantic valley. 
Below us lay the valley, its undulating surface looking like an English 
park with clumps of trees scattered over green swells. The path ran 
between hedges bright with roses and other flowers, sparkling streams 
dashed and foamed over rocky beds, while on the opposite side of the 
valley rose dark, rocky mountains streaked with snow. In this valley 
stood the Tekie or monastery of Sheikh Jelaleddin, tbe great chief and 
holy man of these parts. W e were not allowed to see him, but I was 
much surprised at seeing, by his out-buildings, a great pile of red 
draining tiles. How they got there I cannot imagine. I fancy, how¬ 
ever, that, though a bigoted Mussulman, Sheikh Jelaleddin must be 
in some ways progressive, for the paths in this part of the country are 
far better than any others that I met with, in spite of the natural 
difficulties, and this was said to be the work of the Sheikh. 
From this valley we again reached the course of our former river and 
followed a path high up on its right bank, the river itself plungingthrough 
fine ravines. In one place the path is carried by a convenient ledge on 
a rock face with, for 1000 feet above and 1500 below, no possibility of 
passing. There seems to be plenty of game in this country, for on 
this day I saw a herd of deer, my men saw two bears, and when we 
encamped at night we saw numerous fires about the hill-sides, which, 
the men said, were lighted by the villagers watching to keep off wolves 
and wild swine. 
The next day we got out of the mountains into more open country 
and the following day reached Sert about mid-day. Here I met Major 
Trotter and three days later started to return with him to Yan, via 
Bitlis. 
From Sert to Bitlis runs a great trade route, being the principal 
passage across the Kurdistan mountains from the Syrian plains to the 
Armenian highlands. It is also interesting as being the last stage on 
which it is possible to clearly trace the route of the Ten Thousand 
Greeks under Xenophow. 
