chap. ix. FAREWELL VIEW OF THE SETTLEMENT. 
235 
on every hand, and near them the low, beehive-shaped huts 
which formed their present shelter and their homes. Around 
us, in the midst of this diversified scene, were gathered the 
greater part of the people, their hearts overflowing with 
gladness on finding that, after all they had suffered, there 
were yet those who could sympathise in their sorrows, and 
feel and speak kindly to them. Again and again, after the 
general leave-taking, one and another came to say how 
grateful to them our visit had been, inspiring hope for the 
future, and bringing back to their recollections the pleasures 
of bygone days, when friendly visits were frequent; and 
when I looked around and turned from the landscape to 
the people, and saw their deep emotion, and listened to their 
parting words, I felt that I could not envy the feelings of 
any one who could have gazed unmoved on such a scene. 
Soon after we had left the good people at Philipton rain 
began to fall, and continued during the day ; but though the 
road was slippery and travelling difficult, we arrived soon 
after dark at the ford of the Chumie river, the banks of which 
were so steep and slippery that our driver wished to halt 
until daybreak; but by means of ropes we managed to keep 
our waggon upright, and soon after crossing reached Macfar- 
lane, where we were welcomed by Mr. M‘Dermid of the Scotch 
mission, and felt grateful for the shelter of his friendly roof 
during the storm and the rain of the night. 
The next day our driver, who had been engaged with the 
colonial forces, and had been wounded in the late war, pointed 
out many scenes of carnage lying in our route. 
Continuing our way over this lately disputed ground, and 
having Alice or Fort Hare on our right, and Fort Cox at the 
foot of the Amatola mountains on our left, we reached 
Knapp’s Hope, which is pleasantly situated on a grassy slope, 
running down to the Keiskamma river. Here we remained 
with Mr. Kayser and his family until the following day, much 
