254 
VISITS TO MADAGASCAR 
CHAP X. 
dwelling, I was met at the custom house by one of the officers 
of the port, who led me to a large newly-built house, situated 
within an enclosure in the centre of the village; and, having 
shown me the three several rooms, the floors of which were 
boarded, and the walls covered with matting, he informed me 
that it was at my service so long as I might require it. On 
my asking the terms, he said no payment was required; but* 
at the same time, intimated that he wished to have the refusal 
of an officer’s cocked hat, which he understood the captain of 
the ship had for sale. 
In walking through the village I was struck with the change 
which the opening of the trade after our visit in 1853 had 
produced. The native population appeared to have been 
greatly increased; a number of houses for foreign traders had 
been built, and others were in course of erection; among 
them, and not far from the landing-place, an hotel or board¬ 
ing-house, the first ever erected in Madagascar. Considerable 
quantities of rice appeared to be collected for exportation. 
Cargoes of horned cattle were said to be easily obtained, and 
upwards of 4,000 head of cattle had, since the opening of 
the trade, been annually exported to Mauritius alone. The 
trade of the port was not at that time considered to be active 
and flourishing. There had been but few native dealers from 
the capital, and rumours were afloat among the people of an 
armed expedition, from France and England combined, against 
Madagascar, which had produced an effect unfavourable to the 
commerce of the island. 
As soon as my packages were landed and passed through 
the custom house, I took up my residence on shore. The 
first night in my new habitation contrasted strangely with the 
solitude and stillness of the nights I had passed on the sea. 
Night seemed to be the holiday season of the slaves of both 
sexes, whose voices, with those of other classes of the commu¬ 
nity, were heard in every direction, mingled with the beating 
