F. C. Hornberger, Home and Garden Service 
11 
opinion that Dr. Miles has carried on his 
experiments on a much larger scale than 
has the Michigan College. Dr. L. M. 
Massey, our well known expert at Cor' 
nell, seems inclined to agree with the 
Michigan College. Personally, I think 
Calogreen very good when you use the 
right kind of soil. I dot not think it will 
help very much were you to use heavy 
or wet, poorly drained soils, or even soils 
that have fair drainage, hut that drain 
too slowly; that has been our experience. 
The same can be said of the other dips. 
You must use the best type of soil at all 
times to keep bulbs free of scab; then of 
course, there are the varieties that are 
very much inclined to scab (example, 
Marmora). 
I know a flower grower, who grows 
many acres of Glads for cut flowers 
only, he never paid any attention to 
scab, and I dare say that nearly every 
bulb will show some signs of scab; he 
never looses plants from neck rot, to any 
serious extent except, when he plants on 
wet, heavy or poorly drained soils; he 
always has very fine flowers, that bring 
the best prices. 
Scab or neck rot is never very trouble' 
some except, when grown on poorly 
drained soils, then you will lose a big 
percentage of your bulbs, but all will 
depend on the particular resistance of 
the variety, some will suffer to a much 
greater extent than other more resistant 
kinds. Many of our most highly experi' 
enced plant pathologists have stated at 
various times that they do not believe 
that any kind of dip will remove all the 
bacterium or organism that causes so' 
called “scab” disease. If that is true, 
then every claim of any one grower who 
states, his stock to be 100% free of scab 
must be false, I know of one of our most 
noted scientific men who is regarded as 
one of the foremost investigators, of 
Glad diseases, he has stated that in his 
opinion, he does not believe that any 
disinfectant known will help very much 
in scab control; he has much more prac' 
tical experience along this line than any 
one particular grower, as it has been his 
business to give advice to growers, re' 
suiting from his experimental work. 
GLADIOLUS THRIPS 
We have published much information 
on this subject in the last two years. We 
have practiced what we preached, and as 
a result our state inspector, has declared 
our plants 100 percent free of all signs 
of thrips. That is indeed a gratifying 
result, but even at that we will not neg' 
lect all precautions and fumigation. I do 
not know if I should repeat all the advice 
given in previous catalogs, I will con' 
dense the information this year, and if 
you want more detailed information just 
ask us to mail you a copy of our last 
year’s catalog. We find that for the 
person with a small quantity of bulbs, 
that the naphthalene treatment is likely 
the most practical, but we use the ethy' 
lene dichloride—carbon tetrachloride, 
gas treatment. We have built a tight 
room, where we can confine all the gas, 
without any loss, we heat this room to 
70'75 F. and place the bulbs in this 
tight room for 24 hours, it is easy to use, 
very cheap, and perfectly harmless to the 
operators. It is very practical to use, 
even for the very smallest collection of 
bulbs, but it will require some kind of a 
box or can, where you can confine all the 
fumes, for at least ten hours, 20 to 24 
is better. The temperature of bulbs and 
the room must be at least 70 F., so that 
the gas is liberated in the proper time. 
The bulbs should be warmed in a room 
that is above 70 F., before they are 
placed in the fumigator box, the box, 
must be kept in a room above 70 F., at 
least while fumigating, so the inside tern' 
perature will remain about 70 F. The lid 
must be clamped down, or sealed tight, 
if not perfectly tight, you will not get 
good results. We use 14 lbs. of the 
liquid, to each 1000 cu. ft. All smaller 
capacity, figured on this basis. We pour 
the liquid in large flat pans, and set at 
