Jackson’s Selected Roses 
Our own-root Roses are grown in pots in cool, clean, well-ventilated greenhouses, and 
may be set out in the garden any time except in severe winter months. For nearly 50 
years we have made a specialty of growing own-root Roses, noted for their sturdy, splen¬ 
did growth. They make amazingly rapid growth when transplanted into the open 
ground and grow and bloom 100 per cent. 
Our field-grown Roses are No. 1 grade, 2-year-old, vigorous stock from the open ground, 
budded on Rosa multiflora japonica understock. The plants are dormant and are shipped 
with the roots bare. All our Roses are guaranteed to please you. 
Roses will grow in any ordinary fertile ground but they are particularly fond of a 
heavy clay soil, liberally enriched, well drained, and cultivated. The ground should be 
well spaded and pulverized to the depth of 18 inches or more, and enriched by replacing 
one-third its bulk with well-rotted cow-manure. This well-rotted manure, with heavy 
clay soil, is one of the secrets of fine Roses. It must be thoroughly mixed through the 
soil from the bottom of the bed up, and then the bed lightly packed, unless it be prepared 
long enough in advance of planting for rains or watering to settle it. When the plants 
are set out, a trowelful of bonemeal may be worked in the surface of the ground around 
each Rose. If Roses are not planted in beds, the hole for each Rose should be prepared 
2 feet deep by 3 feet in diameter. Do not plant them in small post-holes and expect 
decent growth. 
CULTIVATION AND CARE OF ROSES 
Planting. When the ground is well prepared, 
as explained above, set the plant slightly deeper 
than the old soil-line indicates it was previously 
planted. Cover with fine earth, taking care to 
settle and draw it closely around the roots and 
main stem, and pack firmly. It is important 
that the earth be tightly pressed on roots. After 
planting, water sufficiently to settle the soil, 
and if hot or windy, shade own-root Roses for 
a few days. If, in delayed transportation, the 
soil around own-root Roses has become hard 
and caked, it should be broken and loosened 
gently, so as not to break the fibrous roots. Keep 
Rose roots covered at all times, never exposing 
them to air or sun. 
Cultivation. Roses need continuous culti¬ 
vation during all but the winter months. The 
ground should not be allowed to bake or become 
hard. It should be stirred frequently, but never 
deeper than 2 inches. A 3-inch mulch of tobacco 
stems, in the spring or early summer, is bene¬ 
ficial. It aids in keeping the earth cool and dis¬ 
courages aphis. 
Watering. Water Roses once a week during 
the growing season if the weather is dry. This 
means a thorough soaking, not a sprinkling. It 
is best accomplished by letting a slow stream 
from the hose run on the bed, moving the hose 
from time to time until the whole bed is thor¬ 
oughly soaked. 
Feeding. Each spring more well-rotted 
manure should be thrown on the bed and lightly 
dug in. A trowelful of bonemeal and one of 
sheep manure may also be worked around each 
plant three or four times during the growing 
season. Or about a quart of liquid cow-manure, 
diluted to the color of strong tea, may be applied 
twice each month until autumn. This feeding 
should be greatly reduced for one-year Roses 
during their first season. 
Pruning. The proper time to prune the 
Everblooming class is early in the spring before 
growth commences; all winter-killed and weak 
or exhausted wood should be removed, as they 
flower in early summer on new shoots from the 
root and remaining old wood. The best flowers 
come from the lowest 6 inches of the bush. 
Hybrid Perpetuals and Hardy Climbers 
should be pruned vigorously immediately after 
they have finished blooming in early summer. 
The new growth, which then starts from the 
old wood and roots, produces the blooming wood 
for the next year. Teas and Hybrid Teas may 
be planted 12 to 18 inches apart; Perpetuals 2 
to 3 feet; and Climbers 4 to 6 feet. 
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Winter Protection. This is not necessary in 
the far South, but in climates where the tempera¬ 
ture reaches and remains around zero for long 
periods, Roses should be protected by hilling 
soil 7 to 8 inches high up around each plant late 
in the fall. After the ground has frozen, cover 
the entire bed with straw or leaves held in place 
by evergreen boughs. This covering should not 
be thick enough to smother the plants and should 
be gradually drawn away during the spring. 
Prevention of Black-Spot and Mildew. 
Beginning in early spring and continuing until 
fall, carefully dust over and under the leaves of 
your plants every two weeks with a dust made 
of nine parts dusting sulphur and one part 
arsenate of lead. Apply with a dust-gun, or 
simply shake from a sack at any time when the 
air is quiet. Prompt and thorough applications 
are necessary. To prevent black-spot on foliage, 
spray weekly with Fungtrogen or Bordeaux 
Mixture, keep all affected leaves picked off, all 
fallen leaves picked up, and burned; and persist 
in careful routine spraying or dusting. For 
green aphis, or plant-lice, spray with a solution 
of Black-Leaf 40. 
Cultivating Roses thoroughly, and cutting the 
flowers with liberal stems, produce vigorous 
growth and protect them against both insects 
and diseases. 
