38 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[March, 
heat. They quickly make root, and must be 
potted on as the roots extend. They will 
make rapid progress if kept in a genial 
temperature, fully exposed to light, near to the 
glass ; it is important that throughout their 
season of active growth they should receive 
no check, against which every precaution 
should be taken. The pots I find most suit¬ 
able for them to bloom in are 5 in., 6 in., or 
8 in. pots, using a soil consisting of two parts 
turfy loam, to one part peat and leaf mould, 
adding sand and charcoal to secure porosity. 
When the growth is advanced under glass, 
and judiciously hardened off, which it will be 
by midsummer, remove the plants to a situa¬ 
tion out of doors, fully exposed to the sun, 
plunging the pots in ashes or cocoa-nut fibre. 
It must be borne in mind that there is to be 
no stopping of the shoots, as the plant flowers 
very imperfectly when stopped. As in the 
case of the chrysanthemum, the less stopping 
the finer the blossoms. 
During September they should be removed 
to a light pit or house with a genial temperature. 
They do not succeed well in a draughty house 
with ordinary greenhouse plants ; and plants 
that have been grown in pots must be assisted 
with frequent applications of liquid manure, 
which greatly enhances the size of the blossoms. 
Let those who complain that young plants do 
not flower so freely as old, give them a fair 
trial, and I am sure they will not be dis¬ 
appointed. We had young plants with 
terminal panicles of blossoms, 12 to 18 inches 
in length, of the purest white, in which state 
they are extremely elegant, one of the most 
effective of decorative plants, and very useful 
for cutting. If properly hardened off and 
planted out upon a warm garden-border after 
May, lifting carefully in September, they 
make good plants, and guarding against checks, 
these will also produce fine flower-heads. 
The Eupatorium Wendlanclii is a strong 
growing variety with an upright habit of growth, 
which attains a height of from 4 to 5 feet. The 
plants consist of a number of stems springing 
from the root, each bearing a terminal cyme 
of white inflorescence, the lateral branches also 
having each a terminal flower-head. This 
Eupatorium being a robust grower, holds its 
blossoms for a length of time, and is a strikingly 
effective plant for decorative purposes, stand¬ 
ing well in an ordinary conservatory; and it 
succeeds E. grandiflorum as to its season of 
flowering.— George Westland, Witley Court. 
VEGETABLES FOR AMATEURS. 
S the season is now at hand when many 
of your amateur readers will be get¬ 
ting in their stock of seeds for the 
forthcoming season, it has occurred 
to me that a few notes on what the writer has 
proved to be good varieties in their several 
classes may be of use to at least a portion of 
them. It may be rather late for this in some 
cases, but I learn from two or three seedsmen 
that early in March is generally the busiest 
time with them in supplying seed to the class 
whom I mainly address. In making these 
notes I have no wish to depreciate the prac¬ 
tice of purchasing the collections made up 
by many seedsmen, further than this, that 
those who know what they require can, in 
my opinion, get better served by purchasing 
their own selections from the catalogues, than 
by buying what the seedsmen make up. I 
know several amateurs and others who do 
this now, and who a few years ago used to 
get seedsmen’s collections. 
To begin with Peas , which I name in the order 
of earliness, omitting the small round White varieties 
that were usually grown as the earliest until within 
the past few years, when better varieties have been 
offered. First Early: American Wonder, Kentish 
Invicta, Day’s Sunrise, and Advancer. Second Early : 
Criterion, Dr. Maclean, Yorkshire Green, and Veitch’s 
Perfection, and if a supply of tall stakes can be had. 
Champion of England may well be added. Late 
varieties: Maclean’s Best of All and Omega, and 
with the same proviso as in second early class, Ne 
Plus Ultra and Emperor of the Marrows, both of 
which are splendid croppers and tine peas in all 
respects. 
Broad Beans: Beck’s Dwarf Gem, and Broad 
Windsor are good. 
French Beans: Osborn’s Forcing, Negro Long- 
Podded, and Canadian Wonder are bad to beat in 
the Dwarf class ; the old Scarlet being the best of the 
running varieties. 
Beets: Dell’s Crimson and Nutting’s Selected 
Dark. 
Broccoli, for late autumn use: Veitch’s Self-Pro¬ 
tecting and Snow’s Winter White; for spring: 
Veitch’s Spring White, Leamington, Lander’s 
Goshen and Model, are all good, the last named 
being in my experience the best late Broccoli sent 
out for years. • 
Brussels Sprouts: Imported and Aigburtli, the 
latter being a very productive variety, but almost 
too large on rich soils for some gentlemen’s tables. 
Cabbages: Atkins’ Matchless, London Colewort, 
and Wheeler’s Imperial. 
Cauliflowers: Veitch’s Extra Early Forcing, Early 
London, Autumn Giant, and Walcheren. 
Celery: Sandringham White, Ivery’s Nonsuch 
Pink, and Major Clarke’s Bed. 
Leelcs: Musselburgh. 
Lettuces , Cabbage varieties: Early Paris Market, 
Stanstead Park, and Victoria. Cos : Iiicks’ Hardy 
White, Paris Green, and Black-seeded Brown Cos, 
the first and last named being capital Cos varieties 
