28 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
{ February, 
languishing some time, tlie plants die al¬ 
together. This is a matter that cannot 
be impressed too closely on the attention of the 
amateur. Store-plants in pots and cutting- 
boxes should now be potted off, and any old 
plants of last year reserved for cuttings should 
be put into a gentle warmth, to push them into 
growth. Salvia patens, Petunias, Fuchsias, 
Heliotropes, Chrysanthemums, and other useful 
plants for the summer garden, can be increased 
in this way. Examine all plants of free growth 
for green-fly, and fumigate the house with 
tobacco-smoke, syringing the plants directly 
after. A little seed of Lobelia speciosa, Petunia, 
Phlox Drummondii, Stock, Mignonette , and 
other popular flowers, should now be sown in a 
little warmth. In this way, good strong plants 
can be had by spring, which soon make a dis¬ 
play in early summer. Keep soft-wooded 
plants clear of decaying leaves, and stir the 
surface-soil occasionally. 
Cold Greenhouse. —Here things are mostly 
quiet, and it is best for them to remain so, 
with the exception of such as are nearly hardy. 
Crocus Imperati, Anemone fitlgens, Hepaticas, 
and some of the early-flowering Violas are 
pretty things for the cold house just now. 
Water sparingly at present. Amateur gar¬ 
deners are strongly tempted to give good soak- 
ings, in their impatience to see the plants 
making headway; but the winter is by no 
means past, and there is no knowing how soon 
frost may appear on the scene. Patience is a 
virtue in plant-growing, as in many other 
things. 
Flower-Garden. —In drying weather lightly 
fork flower borders, but beware of doing injury 
to the crowns of plants beginning to swell 
with growth. If the wet weather has delayed 
any planting, let it be done at once. The 
impulse to grow will soon be strong in many 
plants, and they should be in the soil without 
delay. Frosts tends to throw newly-planted 
subjects up out of the soil; as soon as it thaws, 
they should be pressed down firmly. Many 
things are lost in this way, as the worms com¬ 
plete the work of ejectment commenced by the 
frosts. The villa gardener must now look 
ahead. Dahlias should be set to work in a 
dung-frame about the middle or end of the 
month, and in this frame such seeds may be 
placed as there is not room for in the warm 
greenhouse. Now is the time to sow a little 
seed of such useful perennials as Aquilegias, 
Canterbury Bells, Delphinium, Foxglove, Cam¬ 
panulas^ &c., so as to have good strong plants 
to put out in May. If the beds for spring dis¬ 
play ai - e not planted, let it be done at once. 
Good Daisies, Wallflowers, Pansies , and Poly¬ 
anthuses can now be had in plenty and at a 
cheap rate, and there is good time for the 
plants to get well-rooted before the blooming 
season. Cut back hardy Clematises , thin out 
climbing Roses , and get all hardy creepers put 
trim and straight for the spring. 
Cold Frames. — Carnations and Picotees in 
pots waiting to be planted in larger pots for 
blooming in the summer should have plenty of 
air, and the foliage be kept clean; any in¬ 
tended for the open border should be planted 
out towards the end of the month. Now is 
the time to pot up a few plants of Violets, 
Myosotis dissitiflora, Dielytra spectdbilis , 
Anemone fulgens, Cheiranthus Marshallii, Saxi- 
fraga granulata flore-pleno, Iris pumila , and 
the many other early-flowering hardy plants 
that are so charming in early spring. They 
come into bloom before those in the ©pen air, 
and their flowers are safe from injury Horn 
frost. Lilies may be repotted towards the end 
of the month. Primula amcena and its varieties 
are now making growth, and plenty of air 
should be given them. If not already done, 
repot at once, but it is always best to do this 
in October. Auriculas may still be kept fairly 
dry and near the glass, with plenty of air. If 
excited into growth early, a check sometimes 
comes, and the plants rarely bloom so finely in 
consequence. Keep the surface-soil of the pots 
stirred, and on no account allow anything to 
become drawn for want of air. 
Kitchen Garden. —Plant a few early Potatos 
on a warm border, but instead of rank manure, 
use as fertilisers charred rubbish, old mortar, 
soot, lime, &c., mixed together, spreading a 
dressing of this and leaf-mould over the tubers. 
In a warm spot sow a few Seville Longpod 
Beans, Wood’s Frame Radish, French Horn 
Carrot, Reading Onion , and Paris Cos Lettuce. 
Make new Asparagus beds, plantations of 
rhubarb, beds of herbs, &c. Some of the ear¬ 
liest of the established roots of rhubarb may 
now be covered with seakale pots or cement 
casks, and some dung and leaves placed about 
them for forcing. Sow a few Advancer, Prin¬ 
cess Royal , and James’s Prolific Peas. These 
are good early dwarf free-branching sorts of 
excellent quality. Use the hoe freely among 
growing crops. 
Fruit Garden. —Let the pruning of all fruit 
trees be pushed on in favourable weather, so 
that all planting among or near the trees can 
be proceeded with as desired.— Subuebanus. 
DRACAENA ROSEO-PICTA. 
UR illustration represents .a plant of 
robust habit and bold aspect. The 
leaves are suberect or slightly spreading, 
from 18 in. to 20 in. long, including the foot¬ 
stalk, with a width of 4 in. They are beauti¬ 
fully coloured with a delicate rose tint, which 
deepens by age to a bright crimson, finely 
