34 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ March, 
the time when the plants are being pushed 
forward in autumn, when the geniality of an 
advanced ground temperature adds so materi¬ 
ally to the development of the crest of bracts. 
At the same time, such stimulating influence 
should be used in moderation, as it is most 
objectionable to engender an enfeebled con¬ 
stitution, which would be less likely to endure 
the exposure to which in all likelihood they 
would afterwards be subjected. As the bracts 
fully expand, the temperature and moisture 
should be gradually reduced, the former to 50° 
or so ; and if kept moderately dry at the root, 
they will stand for a length of time in the 
conservatory or a dry room. In fact, for every 
decorative purpose they are so lasting and 
effective as to merit every attention in prepara¬ 
tion ; and when well hardened off, I have 
known them to stand for weeks in a minimum 
of 45°, when kept from draughts and cold 
cnrrents of air. 
The soil I find best suited for the Poinsettia 
is a mixture of light rich turfy loam, leaf- 
mould, and rotten manure, in about equal parts. 
If the loam is at all adhesive, the compost would 
be improved by consisting of about equal parts 
of loam and peat, with thoroughly decayed cow- 
dung, adding sand, charcoal, and bone-dust, so 
as to insure porosity, as the plants dislike an 
adhesive medium in which to root. Liquid 
manure is only necessary or at all desirable 
during the later stages of growth, when, if 
applied in moderation, it will encourage a more 
vigorous development of bracts. As Poinsettias 
are required for a variety of purposes of various 
heights and sizes, so as to suit the different 
positions they are required to occupy ; the 
earliest-rooted plants must be grown on, either 
as single plants, or grouped five or more in a 
pot, according to the size required. I recom¬ 
mend the one shift from the cutting pot at 
once into that in which they are to flower, as 
there is no further check to the roots. Tall 
plants are very effective as ‘ starers,’ for giving 
relief to groups of foliage, and overtopping the 
plants in general arrangements upon conserva¬ 
tory benches, they form grand objects. For 
this particular purpose, I find the one-year-old 
plants to answer best; if cut freely back to two 
or three eyes, and placed in heat to break, they 
quickly make shoots an inch in length, when 
they should be shaken clear of the old soil, 
trimming any obtruding roots, and then be potted 
into pots according to the reduced state of the 
roots. If plunged in bottom-heat, they make 
rapid progress, and with a final shift soon form 
splendid shoots, carrying bracts of astonishing 
size, and for such purposes as above indicated 
they are glorious subjects. 
The method formerly adopted to obtain 
dwarf plants, and one which is now frequently 
resorted to with great success, obtaining heads 
of colour 12 in. in diameter, upon plants 6 in. 
in height in small pots, was to plant out the 
old plants in a pit early in spring, and encou¬ 
rage vigorous growth. The heads taken off 
during August, and placed in a brisk, close 
frame, quickly root, and if kept close to the 
glass, afterwards make but little growth, and 
are so very serviceable for grouping in trays 
with other subjects, as to be well worth grow¬ 
ing in quantity. However, the method which 
most fittingly commends itself for the produc¬ 
tion of dwarf plants, and which is the least 
trouble, is to confine the late-struck plants, 
which are started in July and August, to the 
60-pots in -which the cuttings are rooted, though 
to insure perfect success with Poinsettias in 
such small pots, a little nice attention is neces¬ 
sary, as they must not receive any check, and 
the plants must be kept close to the glass, 
freely syringed overhead, and liberally supplied 
with manure-water. These convenient minia¬ 
ture plants produce glorious heads of bracts, 
and form charming subjects for decoration. 
To be perfectly successful in the cultivation 
of the Poinsettia , a strong and vigorous growth 
must, as far as possible, be uninterruptedly 
secured throughout the season of active growth ; 
they must have full exposure to every ray of 
sun, without the slightest shade in any form 
after they are removed from the cutting pot, 
placing them as close to the glass as possible, 
and giving an abundance of air ; this cannot 
well be overdone during July, August, and 
September. In fact, with plants that are fully 
and early established, I have often removed 
the lights entirely during mild weather with 
the best results. But this must be done with 
caution. When grown by themselves, Poin¬ 
settias are more under control in every way 
than when grown in the ordinary stove with a 
mixed collection. In the latter case, they are 
very apt to get drawn and weakened. When 
