74 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST, 
[ May, 
had the opportunity to examine, the fruit was 
large, 3 in. to 4 in. in diameter, somewhat de¬ 
pressed, or in other examples narrowing 
abruptly at the apex, the surface forming 
slight blunt ridges, which become more distinct 
around the crown, where they are generally 
well marked. Skin smooth shining green 
with a brownish cheek, but turning at full 
maturity to a pale straw-yellow, with a pale 
crimson flush on the cheek, and also marked 
with a few broken streaks of darker crimson, 
the whole surface being thinly strewed with 
minute russet points. Eye downy, closed, 
with convergent leafy segments, set in a deep 
prominently but unequally-ribbed basin. Stalk 
£ in. to | in. long, comparatively slender, in¬ 
serted in a broad deep funnel-shaped cavity, 
which is lined with pale tawny-russet, extend¬ 
ing in broken feathery points over the base of 
the fruit. Flesh white, solid, tender, and with 
an agreeably sub-acid flavour. The foliage is 
bold, roundish, and coarsely toothed ; and the 
shoots are vigorous, deep brownish-purple. 
Like Lane’s Prince Albert, this apple is re¬ 
markable for coming early into bearing, and 
hence is one which may be planted with a view 
to profit. Its free-bearing habit tends to keep its 
growth within moderate bounds, so that it forms 
a compact and medium-sized tree.—T. Moore. 
HOW TO GROW AND EXHIBIT 
PANSIES. 
FULLY expected when at the National 
Carnation and Picotee Society’s Exhibition 
at the Royal Aquarium, Westminster, last 
year, to see Pansies far superior to anything we 
are able to produce at our Northern Shows ; but 
I was much disappointed. In addition to the 
flowers being of inferior character, they were 
soiled, and badly set up. Having been a grower 
and exhibitor for many years, I propose to de¬ 
scribe my plan of growing and exhibiting these 
beautiful spring, summer, and autumn flowers. 
The soil I find most suitable is a moder¬ 
ately strong loam, deeply trenched, and well 
mixed with rotten dung—that from an old 
hot-bed, I have found most suitable. If 
the ground is new, it is best to grow on 
it a crop of either Potatos or Carrots the 
year before the Pansies are planted, otherwise 
it is not at all improbable that the wire-worm 
and other insect pests may prove troublesome. 
If it should be an old garden, the trenching 
and manuring of the soil should be done in the 
autumn before planting, trenching deep, and 
mixing at the same time with the manure a 
sprinkling of lime, to sweeten the mass. The 
surface should be left during the winter as rough 
as possible, that the component parts may be 
acted upon by the weather. About the middle 
of March, if moderately dry, the ground is 
forked over, making the surface as fine as 
possible, and the plants are put in as soon as 
the ground is fit. I always plant deeply, strip¬ 
ping off a few of the lower leaves, and in 
cases where the plants are of long straggling 
growth, either peg them down, or else tie them 
to short stakes. After this they will require 
but little attention for a time, excepting it be 
to look out for, and protect them against, 
slugs, which are generally very troublesome, 
so that it is not an uncommon thing to find 
several plants eaten off in a single night. 
The distance at which to plant depends 
greatly on the mode of growth. For my own 
part, I have had as fine flowers from plants 
6 in. apart as when the distance has been 1 ft. 
each way ; but of course, they were pinched 
and cut in, and kept close. In my ground, I 
find the best distance to be 1 ft. from row 
to row, and 9 in. from plant to plant. 
The plants are, of course, propagated in 
sufficient numbers under glass, the cuttings 
being either inserted in pots, close round 
the edge, or in beds, which will contain more, 
for the spring planting. It is well also to 
plant at the same time seedlings which have 
been sown in the autumn in boxes. These 
yield a fine display of flowers after the named 
sorts begin to get small, and lose their belting. 
Seed may also be sown in April in the open 
border, with the moderate certainty of having 
a good show of flowers. 
It is necessary during the summer months to 
arrange some kind of shading to keep the 
plants from being burnt, or scalded, which 
frequently happens during hot weather. The 
best plan I know is to plant at about 2 ft. from 
the edge of the pansy-bed on the south side, 
a row of Hollyhocks and Dahlias, placed 
alternately; these give sufficient shade, while 
the plants are not drawn, but continue to 
bloom finely all the season. 
Should the season prove wet, it will be 
necessary to cover the flowers, if intended for 
exhibition, as nothing spoils the blooms more 
quickly than wet. My plan is to procure 
some sticks from 4 in. to \ in. in diameter, and 
about 1 ft. long ; near the top of these I make 
