110 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ J ULY, 
looking well after Petunias, Balsams, Celosias, 
Trachelium cosndeum, Mimulus, and other things, 
there need be no lack of flowering plants till 
autumn comes on, in the procession of the 
Seasons. Water freely in dry weather, shade 
from hot sun, and give abundance of air on 
all favourable occasions. Especially pay atten¬ 
tion to the cleanliness of the plants. These 
are the simple conditions by the observance of 
which the greenhouse can be made most 
effective and pleasant. 
Flower Garden. —The chief thing to do is 
to keep the garden tidy and neat, by clearing 
the borders and beds of leaves, removing dead 
blossoms, &c. Grass plats, grass edgings, and 
edgings of all kinds formed of plants need to 
be kept neatly trimmed, as if they are permitted 
to become coarse and slovenly, they quite 
change the aspect of the garden. Those villa 
gardeners who make a small plantation of 
Briers and bud a few Roses every year scarcely 
need to be reminded that July is the month 
for budding. After heavy rains is the best 
time, and the operation should be performed at 
dawn or after sunset ; but early morning is 
generally considered the best, as the sap then 
flows freely. Hardy Perennials and Biennials 
should be sown for nest year’s blooming, such 
as Foxgloves, Delphiniums, Scabious, Zinnias, 
Sweet Williams, Brompton Stocks, Canterbury 
Bells, and others. The seed-beds should be 
made up in a warm border, where they can be 
shaded from the sun if necessary, and as soon 
as the plants are large enough be planted out 
in nursery beds, preparatory to being finally 
planted out to bloom. Chrysanthemums in pots 
for autumn flowering should now be standing 
out-of-doors on an ash-bed, and be kept well 
watered and syringed overhead. Any check 
now will be serious, especially one from drought. 
It is not too late to put in Pink pipings in a 
shady place, in some light, free, sandy soil, 
putting a hand-glass over them. Towards the 
end of the month Carnations and Picotees 
should be layered ; in this way, strong plants 
are had for autumn planting. It is not too 
late to plant out Pentstexnons and Antirrhinums 
for blooming in autumn, but it should be done 
as early as possible. These plants, being young 
and vigorous, stand the wintey well, and come 
into bloom early the following summer. 
Kitchen Garden. —As soon as the crops of 
Early Peas are over, pull up the haulm and 
clear the ground, dig it over, and. plant out 
Broccoli, Savoys, Cabbage, Kales, Coleworts,and 
Early Dwarf Caxdiflowers. If the weather be 
showery, plant out between showers. If it be 
dry, have some liquid mud by, and dip the roots 
of each plant in it before putting it into the 
ground ; plant out in the evening, and the 
following evening give a little water to each 
plant. At the end of the month a bed of 
Winter Spinach should be sown ; it is well to 
do this early, as a better crop results. Do not 
be in a hurry to earth-up Celery, but draw a 
little soil up to the roots, and keep it growing 
fast. Celery grows but slowly after it is eartlied- 
up, and earthing-up is intended solely for 
blanching it. Sow Turnip Radishes, for 
successional crops; and some Early Turnips, 
when a piece of ground can be used for the 
purpose. Hand-weed while the weather is wet, 
and carry the weeds away to the refuse-heap, 
as they will come in very useful for manurial 
purposes by-and-by. 
Fruit Garden. —As there is but little fruit on 
Gooseberry-trees, and only a fair crop on Currant- 
bushes, and the weather continuing wet, they 
will make a free growth. Some of the shoots 
should be taken out of the centre to admit circu¬ 
lation, leaving only so much wood as will bear 
a crop of fruit next year. The earliest and 
strongest of the runners of Strawberries can be 
taken off and planted up, to form beds in Sep¬ 
tember. Strawberry beds should be renewed 
every three years. Tie-in and train Wall-fruit 
trees as needed, and use the syringe well if the 
weather be dry. Pyramid and bush trees are 
making a very vigorous growth, and it will be 
well to thin out some of the shoots, so that 
the trees be not too much crowded. — 
Surbubanus. 
GARDEN GOSSIP. 
URING the past month the Royal 
Horticultural Society has held some 
very interesting meetings. At that on 
June 4, Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Chelsea, showed 
some very choice plants, for which First-class Cer¬ 
tificates were voted. They were Xeronema Moorei, 
a very distinct New Caledonian plant, with iris-like 
leaves, and spikes of crimson flowers set on the 
upper edge of the horizontally inflected scape—a 
most distinct, curious, and showy plant, the last to 
flower of those collected by the late Mr. John G. 
Veitch ; Platycerium Hillii, a Queensland Elk’s-horn 
Fern, with short patches of sori; Adiantum cyclo- 
sorum, New Granadian, with the young fronds of 
a pretty reddish tint. Mr. Green, gardener to Sir G. 
Macleay, Bletchingley, was awarded a certificate for 
a flower-spike and leaf of Gunner a nianicata. 
Lathyrus Drummondii, front Mr. R. Dean (sent also 
by M>. Green), a pretty rosy-carmine everlasting 
Pea, also received a Certificate. At the meeting on 
June 18, which was also the Great Summer Show, 
the finest bank of Pot-Roses perhaps ever staged was 
shown by Mr. C. Turner, to whom the Lindley 
medal was awarded, so meritorious was the exhibi¬ 
tion. Certificates were awarded, amongst others, to 
Dracmna vivicans, from Mr. W. Bull, a narrow¬ 
leaved erect sort, dark bronze, edged with scarlet; 
to H.P. Rose Countess of Roseberry, from Messrs. 
W. Paul and Son, Waltham Cross, a strongly per¬ 
fumed English seedling, with bright rosy-crimson 
flowers of fine form; to Erica obbata expolita, from 
Messrs. Rollisson and Sons, a fine heath of the 
Irbyana class, with gumless flowers, and likely to 
make a fine exhibition plant; to Potentilla Prince 
Arthur, from Mr. Marsham, Isleworth, a fine double 
yellow variety; to Dactylis glomerata aurea, a 
