120 
THE FLORIST AND POJIOLOGIST. 
[ August, 
a warm greenhouse, in a border of rich turfy 
loam and leaf-soil, with good drainage, and 
being kept well supplied with moisture during 
the summer months, it grows freely, but to get 
it also to flower freely it is necessary during 
the autumn and winter to give but little w^ater, 
so that the summer growth may get w’ell 
hardened off. As regards growth, the plant is 
kept almost at a standstill for a time, and in 
this condition it will bear a somewhat low 
temperature, but it is necessary that sufllcient 
water should be given to prevent the leaves 
falling off, or the plant wull become disfigured. 
It requires plenty of sun and light to mature 
the growths, and a thorough watering should 
be given just as the flower-buds appear. When 
in flower, the temperature of the hoirse should 
be kept between 55° and GO'^. 
The plant in question bore over 400 terminal 
racemes of its delicate pale lilac flowers, which 
continued in perfection for a considerable time. 
When planted out in this w'ay, it is certainly a 
magnificent plant, and Mr. Green is to be con¬ 
gratulated upon his discoveiy of a method of 
treatment by wdiich it is induced to flower so 
freely.—T. Mooee. 
IMPATIENS JEEDONI.E. 
often happens that plants requiring dif- 
^ j"!: ferent treatment from the generality of 
others, even if specially beautiful in them¬ 
selves, are allow’ed to go almost out of cultiva¬ 
tion ; this is more particularly the case with 
subjects requiring to be cultivated under glass, 
especially if in addition they are not well 
adapted for use in a cut state; for with 
the present and ever-increasing demand for 
cut flowers, one of the first considerations 
with gardeners is, of necessity, will the flowers 
stand when cut? And it cannot be denied that 
this consideration has been the means of driv¬ 
ing many beautiful plants into the shade, and 
to a very great extent reducing the interest 
attached to the generality of our plant-houses. 
When the Jii/putiens Jerdonue first became 
known, almost every one possessing a house 
kept at a stove or intermediate temperature grew 
it; the little room it needs, its profuse habit of 
blooming, and the distinct character of its 
flowers made it well deserving of a place ; but 
with many it turned out to be rather a catchy 
subject, not difficult to grow, so long as it kept 
in health, but liable to damp-off at the bottom, 
and when examined, it usually turned out that 
the roots were rotten. This result was, in 
most cases, attributable to the use of too 
much water, often combined with over-much 
pot-room, and to its not being grown near 
enough to the glass. The effect of the 
latter tends always to make plants not only 
able to bear, but also to require more root- 
moisture. The loss of the plants nn this way 
most frequently occurs in the winter, when it 
needs little more moisture in the soil than 
many orchids, its succulent stems during the 
season of rest containing enough moisture to 
sustain it in health, with little assistance from 
the roots. It strikes freely from cuttings, put 
in any time during the spring or summer, in¬ 
serted in small pots, well drained, and filled 
with a mixture consisting of half-fibrous peat 
and half-chopped sphagnum, with a large ad¬ 
mixture of sand, and a good sprinkling of 
crocks, or charcoal broken small — in fact, 
material such as most orchids will thrive in, 
wdth the addition of sand. The cutting-pots 
may be surfaced with sand alone. Select 
stout, firm pieces of the extremities of the 
shoots, three or four inches in length, and in¬ 
sert them an inch into the sand, giving very 
little water until they are rooted, only just 
enough to keep the cuttings from shrivelling. 
They should be covered wdth a bell-glass, but 
this must be well tilted up, not kept close down, 
as usual with most other things, or they will be 
liable to rot. If possible, place them on a 
shelf in a warm house, and do not shade much 
as they show signs of rooting, which they will 
do by making growth at the points ; gradually 
remove the bell-glasses, and give enough water 
to keep them going slowly through the autumn. 
They had better remain in the little pots 
during the winter, giving them a position as 
near the roof as can be afforded. A shelf over 
the path in a stove kept at an ordinary tem¬ 
perature will suit them, applying only sufficient 
water to keep the shoots from shrivelling. 
About March the higher temperature will 
cause them to commence growth, and as soon 
as they have pushed a few leaves, move them 
into pots three inches larger, using material 
similar to that with which the cutting-pots 
were filled. The little plants usuall}^ break 
out of their own accord without stopping, but 
