1879. ] 
SCALE, ETC., ON PEACH TREES.—FLOWER-GARDEN PHLOXES. 
1G7 
to render the bulk fairly porous and less 
adhesive. In no case should fresh, raw manure 
be placed in the ground just before planting is 
done ; but well-rotted dung may be added in 
naturally poor soils. Where really good turfy 
soil is obtainable in suflicient quantity, it will 
render the admixture of manure unnccessaiy. 
This preparatory rvork should be done a month 
or so before planting-time, and the soil thrown 
out of the holes left rough, to sweeten by ex¬ 
posure to atmospheric influences. 
Selection of Trees. —For small gardens, 
bushes and pyramids will be most generally 
useful, because they will be easiest to manage. 
Trees which have been transplanted once or 
twice in the nursery should bo selected, because 
they will be found shortei'-jointed and fur¬ 
nished with more fibrous roots, and be better 
fitted for removal. A tree which has been 
transplanted a time or tw'o may be said to 
have commenced its education ; its fruit-grow¬ 
ing powers have been gently developed, as will 
be perceived on examination, for it will be 
found that it has more or less fruit-spurs in 
various stages of growth. Cleanly-grafted 
trees on suitable stocks, thus directed on the 
road to fruitfulness, will only need moderate 
care and judicious treatment to ensure a yield 
of fruits after their several kinds. 
When to Plant. —October and November are 
the best months to remove trees from the 
nursery. It may also be done in February, 
but preference should be given to the autumn. 
Iloio to Plant. —On receiving trees from a 
nursery, they should be planted as soon as 
possible. Where stations have been prepared 
beforehand, as advised, the planting may be 
done most expeditiously. First examine the 
roots, and cut away any bruised parts. Shorten 
any straggling roots by a slanting cut on the 
under side. Preserve all the fibrous roots, as 
on these the fruit-growing powers of the trees 
will depend. Place each tree in one of the 
prepared holes, taking care to keep the collar 
of the plant—the collar is that part of the 
tree where the main stem proceeds upwards 
from the crown of the roots—slightly above 
the ground level; this is important., and shoidd 
he carefully attended to. Then spread the 
roots, in a horizontal position, so that they 
radiate from the stem in all directions like the 
spokes of a wheel. Next throw lightly over 
them some really good turfy soil, taking care 
that no spaces are left unfilled. Add more 
soil until the hole is filled, keeping the 
poorest, if good soil is scarce, for the top. 
When the operation is completed the tree 
should appear to be planted on a slight mound, 
the soil gradually sloping from the collar of 
the tree to the level of the surrounding soil. 
The next operation is to make each tree firmly 
fixed, so that violent winds may not move it. 
This may be done in a variety of ways : short 
stakes may be driven into the ground at a dis¬ 
tance from the stem, with an inclination from 
the tree of 45 degrees. To these tarred ropes 
may be fastened, and carried up to and around 
the stem at a sufficient height to secure steadi¬ 
ness—say three stakes to each tree. For 
small trees, a single stake may be placed 
parallel to the tree which is to be fastened to 
it; or for larger trees, three stakes, placed 
triangularly and secured to the stem, a twist 
of hay-band being wrapped round the stem, to 
prevent the stakes rubbing the bark. In one way 
or other every tree must be made firm, or its 
progress and growth will be seriously retarded. 
Finally, some half-rotted manure, to the depth 
of 2 in., should be placed on the mounds, to 
prevent undue evaporation, keep in the heat, 
and encourage the formation of surface roots. 
This mulch will act most beneficially during 
the ensuing spring and summer. If the trees 
have travelled a long distance, it will be well 
to give a good soaking of soft water after the 
mulch has been placed over the roots.— 
{Abridged from J. C. Wheeler and Soil’s 
Catalogue of Fridt-trees.) 
SCALE, Etc., ON PEACH TREES. 
late Mr. Thomas Elvers’ recipe for 
is not only effectual and cheap, 
but is easy of application. Methylated 
spirits, applied with a camel-hair brush, is im¬ 
mediate death to them. I have had none this 
year, but last year several trees were afflicted 
by them. 
For mildew and red-spider, I mix naphtha 
with the water, and syringe with it. My trees 
under glass last year (Peach trees) were sadly 
afflicted with the two. This year I have no 
red-spider, and very slight attacks of mildew. 
Last winter, I had the trees sponged with the 
above.—W. F. Eadclyffe, Okeford Fitzpaine. 
FLOWER-GARDEN PHLOXES. 
Phlox is more frequently grown in 
beds than in pots, and to obtain the 
best results the soil must be deeply 
trenched and richly manured. The Phlox is a 
gross feeder, and speedily exhausts soil that 
has only been dug and manured in the ordinary 
way. I place two good layers of manure under 
the plants, one 6 inches below the suiface, and 
another 9 inches deeper, and the ground is 
stirred up G inches deeper than the under 
layer. The best plants for a bed are those 
that have been propagated and grown in pots 
for one year. I plant four rows in a bed, and 
allow 20 inches between each plant, and they 
will do all the better if a little fine rich soil, 
such as is used for potting, is placed round 
