174 
THE FLOEIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ November, 
lield as mucli as possible, in order to induce a 
state of rest in tbe plants, as in this state they 
are better able to resist frost when in an un¬ 
heated house. On the other hand, the plants 
must not be allowed to become what is termed 
“ dust-dry,” for that is a state likely to injure 
the tender roots, on which the plants have to 
depend for sustenance. As November is usually 
characterised by close, humid weather, the plants 
should be gone through occasionally, and de¬ 
caying leaves picked off. Damp hangs about 
these leaves, and soon spreads to other parts of 
the plants, if not removed. Zonal Pelargoniums, 
Fuchsias, Balsams, Begonias, &c., are still 
flowering, but the dull, dark days will soon 
commence to efface their floral beauty. Chrij- 
santhemums are now the leading feature of the 
greenhouse. Those that have been housed, for 
a few weeks will be making rapid progress, 
and should be kept staked and neatly tied-out, 
so that the air can freely circulate among the 
branches. A little liquid manure, if it can be 
had, or failing that, some of Olay’s Fertiliser, 
given twice or thrice a week, will greatly help 
the plants, giving a healthy hue to the foliage 
and fineness to the flowers. Cuttings of Pelar¬ 
goniums, Lobelias, Fuchsias, Verbenas, Tropceo- 
lums, &c., in store-pits will need constant 
looking over, clearing away all evidences of 
damp, and taking care not to over-water them, 
to run the risk of their damping off. 
Cold Frames. —As in the case of the green¬ 
house, so here, the frames will be pretty well 
occupied, as many things that have stood out- 
of-doors will be all the better for shelter. It is 
of the first importance to have a dry bottom 
to cold frames during winter. A good layer 
of brick-rubbish, broken crockery-ware, &c,, 
to the depth of four or six inches affords 
excellent drainage, and on this should 
be placed the roughest refuse from the 
cinder-heap, and then a surface of the 
finest. On such a bed, plants can be kept 
fairly dry and comfortable during the winter, 
though the frame may be on a north border, in 
a shaded spot. As many of the plants are 
going to rest, the occupants need to be watered 
with discrimination. When there is a fine, 
warm rain falling, the lights should be raised 
or pulled off, as the plants will be benefited, if 
exposed for a few hours. In fine v/eather, 
unless the winds are cold, and when there is a 
little warm sunshine, the lights can be thrown 
open, that the plants may get the benefit of it. 
Such things as Auricidas, Primroses, Pohj- 
anthus, &c., will have the leaves formed in the 
summer beginning to decay, and needing to be 
carefully picked off; this also should be done 
in the case of all plants going to rest and 
shedding their leaves. Crocus speciosus and 
the Colchicums are now very pretty in pots, 
and Anemone fulgens, Triteleia uni flora, and 
some others are coming on to succeed them. 
Seedling plants of Polyanthus, Primroses, 
Alpine Auricidas, and things of this character, 
raised from seeds sown in July, should be 
pricked off from the seed-pots or pans, and 
encouraged to grow on in size, which they will 
do, if put into fine, rich soil. A few more 
Spring Bulbs should be planted, to keep up a 
succession. 
Flower Garden. —Frost, rain, and long dark 
cold nights are telling upon the occupants of the 
flower-beds, and though these will be in bloom 
for some time longer, it will be patchy and 
irregular. Anything of a tender nature it is 
desirable to save should be lifted and housed 
at once. A few dwarf, bushy Evergreen Shrubs, 
such as Laurestinus, Aucuba, Portugal Laurel, 
Bays, Hollies, Rhododendrons, Euonymus, 
Coniferous plants, &c., come in very useful at 
this season of the year for furnishing the beds 
during winter; but these can be employed 
only on condition there is a spare piece of 
ground, in which they can be planted-out during 
summer. Now is the time to lift and divide 
such useful spring-flowering hardy perennials, 
as Pansies, Violas, Aiibrietias, Arabis, Ever¬ 
green Candytufts, Rochets, Double Daisies, 
Primroses, Polyanthus, &c., for spring display. 
They divide well now, and soon make roots, if 
put into good stuff. Many Villa gardeners 
are fond of budding Roses in the summer, and 
a supply of stocks for budding should be got 
during winter, and planted in some good loam. 
Those who plant-out/7yacf«f/(s, 'Pulips, Crocuses, 
Narcissi, &c., in beds for spring display, 
should do so at once, choosing a fine day and 
drying weather for the purpose. 
Kitchen Garden. —Whatever digging and 
trenching is required, now is the time to do it. 
Many pieces of spare ground are covered with 
a dense growth of weeds, for the simple reason 
that it has been impossible to keep them down. 
It will be well to bastard-trench these, throw¬ 
ing the weeds into the bottom of the trench. 
One great advantage in digging and trenching 
the ground early is that every additional day’s 
exposure of the soil to the action of the 
weather does it good. Generally speaking, it 
is not well to manure in autumn, because the 
rains wash the best of it away. Beds of 
Spinach, Sjwing Onions, Lettuce, &c., should be 
freed from weeds, and as far as it can be done 
the surface soil should be kept stirred with the 
hoe or by hand. Beds of Spring Cabbage will 
be benefited by putting the hoe amongst them ; 
indeed, all beds of green-stuff need to be so 
treated. Need we say the Kitchen Garden 
should be kept as clean and tidy in winter as 
at any time of the year ? 
Fruit Garden. —Late Apples and Pears are 
hanging much longer than usual, but all should 
be gathered and stored away at once. Bush 
fruits can be pruned, and the ground forked 
over between the rows ; the prunings should 
