136 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ September, 
ing there is scarcely any sign of tubers being 
formed. Some Cabbage should be sown 
early in the month for spring use; the Non- 
pariel , under whatever new name it may be 
offered, and the Enfield Market are the best. 
The Colewort is an excellent early spring veget¬ 
able, and as soon as possible some seed should 
be sown to come in late in the winter and 
onwards. Green-curled Endive should be sown 
at the same time, and Lisbon Onions also; 
some Prickly Spinach for winter, and some 
Early Snowball Turnips once in three weeks 
or so. It will soon be time to harvest Onions , 
and they need to be well dried before they are 
stored away. Those who are fond of Radishes 
for winter salads can sow some of the Black 
Spanish or Californian Mammoth. Celery must 
be looked after as to earthing-up as required. 
Fruit Garden. — Many villa gardeners are 
complaining of the presence of American 
blight on their fruit-trees, and are naturally 
anxious to know how to get rid of it. The 
best thing to do is to clean it off with a hard 
brush. We have known a mixture of paraffine 
and water used, but without great care there is 
danger to the young growths from the use of it. 
Spirit of turpentine has been recommended, but 
that also is injurious to the bark of the trees. 
“About the last week of this month,” remarks 
a successful fruit cultivator, “ and the begin¬ 
ning of next, go over the pyramid, espalier, 
and wall Apples and Pears , and remove all the 
superabundant wood that will have to be cut 
out at the winter pruning, as this will tend to 
develope the buds that are left, and cause 
them to throw out blossom-buds or incipient 
spurs.” 
Flower Garden. —This department should 
now be at its gayest, as there is a wealth of 
subjects with which to make a summer display. 
There are Asters , Pentstemons , Phlox Drum- 
mondii, Zinnias , Verbenas , Antirrhinums , 
Dianthus , and many more fine annuals and 
biennials, that, in addition to making a pretty 
display, are so well suited to cut from. Some 
of the dwarf bouquet Dahlias should be in 
every garden. Now is the time to keep the 
beds and borders tidy, by removing decaying 
foliage and giving the soil a top-dressing. This 
will be all the more necessary, as the dry weather 
is likely to last. Hollyhocks and tall-growing 
Dahlias must be staked. The former are again 
showing the disease, and the best thing to be 
done is to keep the plants growing as vigorously 
as possible. This is a good time of the year for 
clipping Box edgings, and all hedges, excepting 
those of Laurel and Holly. 
Cold Frames.—Auriculas in pots need to be 
frequently looked over, the decaying leaves 
removed, the surface-soil stirred, and green-fly 
brushed from the leaves. All spring-flowering 
Bulbous plants in pots that have lost their 
foliage will be benefited by top-dressing and 
water as required. Cyclamens in frames must 
be kept well shaded from the sun, and sprinkled 
occasionally over-head in dry weather. As 
Gloxinias and Achimenes go out of flower, they 
can be placed in the frame. Clumps of 
Christmas Roses that have made a good summer 
growth may now be lifted, divided, and potted 
up for early flowering in the greenhouse. 
Greenhouse. —There should now be no lack 
of flowering plants, and to keep them watered 
and clean and tidy is the principal work of the 
gardener. As plants go out of bloom, they 
can be placed out of doors, under the shade 
of a hedge, but kept watered; any that are 
not worth preserving can be thrown away. 
Where the more delicate kinds of Ericas and 
New Holland plants are grown, it is best to 
keep them in a cold frame, as a matter of pre¬ 
caution, but the lights may be altogether 
removed as frequently as possible. Air should 
be given freely at night, under any circum¬ 
stances. The young plants of Primulas , 
Calceolarias , and Cinerarias must be well 
looked after, and kept growing on for winter. 
Berried Solanums and Chrysanthemums will be 
coming on for autumn ; the former should be 
kept comfortable, and watered with manure-water 
occasionally, to enable them to set their berries. 
Chrysanthemums in pots will now need plenty 
of water overhead, and at their roots, in order 
to be as vigorous and healthy as possible. 
Those who have the command of heat should 
pot up a few early white Roman Hyacinths , to 
grow on for flowering in November and Decem¬ 
ber. Forcing plants, such as Deutzia, Kalmia , 
Azalea , Rhododendron , &c., should be looked 
after, and prepared for moving into the forcing- 
house by-and-by.— Suburbanus. 
PROPAGATING DOUBLE 
PRIMULAS. 
' 1yS '^AANY persons experience difficulty in 
their attempts to propagate the 
double-flowered varieties of the 
Chinese Primula. Mr. Gilbert, of Burghley, 
who has been successful in raising several very 
fine new varieties, appears to be more successful. 
The plan adopted by him is to ripen the cuttings 
thoroughly, by keeping the plants short of 
water for some time previous to their being 
taken off—not, however, to the extent of caus¬ 
ing them to flag. Each cutting is taken off 
with a heel, and potted separately in a thumb- 
pot, in a compost of very sandy loam. They 
are then plunged in a close hand-glass, some 
charcoal being sprinkled amongst the pots, to 
absorb the moisture that is certain to rise. No 
water is given as long as the foliage shows no 
signs of flagging, and when this does occur, 
they get very little. The glass is shaded from 
