182 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ December, 
roots. About the end of March, or the begin¬ 
ning of April, old plants will generally have 
made some young growths that are not so 
much inclined to bloom as later on. If these 
are taken off with a heel when some 4 in. or 
5 in. long, and inserted in small pots, well 
drained, and half filled with a mixture of sand 
and loam, the space above all sand, kept moder¬ 
ately close, moist, and shaded, under a propagat- 
ing-glass in a temperature of 70°, they will root 
in a few weeks; when they should gradually 
be inured to do without the glass, and as soon 
as they are fully established moved into 3-in. 
or 4-in. pots, using good soil, such as already 
advised. Place them where they will get 
plenty of light, giving them air in the middle 
of the day, and as the sun gets more powerful, 
a little shade also will be an advantage. 
Syringe daily overhead, and stop the points 
when they have reached 10 in. or 12 in. in 
height. As the weather gets warmer, give 
more heat; they will bear as much as most 
ordinary stove-plants. At the beginning of 
July give them G-in. pots, again stopping the 
shoots. Continue to treat as above directed 
until the autumn approaches, when shading 
and syringing must be discontinued, and a 
little more air given. As the season advances 
reduce the temperature, which may be 60° 
right through the winter. Again increase the 
heat in the spring, and when the roots show 
signs of requiring more room, move into 
pots 2 in. or 3 in. larger, treating them 
in the matters of heat, moisture, and shade 
as during the previous summer, and giving 
another shift when it seems to be re¬ 
quired. If wanted to cover a pillar or 
rafter, the plants may be placed in position 
during the summer; but if they are to be 
trained as pot specimens, they will require 
several tall sticks, which should be inserted 
near the outside of the ball, winding the shoots 
round them, and simply stopping any that are 
inclined to outgrow the rest. All that is 
further required is to give such additional 
root-room as may be needed, and to regulate 
the shoots to the position they occupy. 
So treated, the plants will last for a good 
many years, care being taken not to over¬ 
pot, or allow the soil to get too wet, for the 
roots are more delicate than those of many 
stove-plants. They are liable to the attacks of 
the insects that infest heat-requiring plants. 
These must be kept down by syringing and 
sponging, particularly in the summer, being 
mindful not to injure the leaves, as this is 
more prejudicial in its effects to this species of 
Jasminum than to stronger-growing things.— 
T. Baines, Southgate. 
THE STANDARD TREE-PRUNER. 
3 T this season of the year, when pruning 
operations will require attention, we 
are glad to have the opportunity of 
recommending a very useful garden implement, 
called the Standard Tree-pruner, which will be 
clearly understood from the accompanying 
illustrations and description. It has the great 
merit of strength and rigidity, combined with 
lightness, a pruner 10 ft. long weighing but 
4^ lb.,; it has the further merits of being 
simple in its action and thoroughly efficient; 
and, being worked with a metal rod, it makes 
a clean cut, and is not liable to get out of 
order, like other implements of the same char¬ 
acter whose cutting-gear is worked by a cord. 
The Standard Tree-pruner 
has, we have said, the merit of 
simplicity of action. This will 
be seen by a reference to the 
figures. It consists of a pole, 
hook, metal rod, lever, and 
blade. “ The peculiar con¬ 
struction of the hook will at 
once commend itself to a prac¬ 
tical eye; it is of the best steel, 
and is made double, so that 
the knife works in the hook. 
The benefit thus gained is two¬ 
fold, viz., it affords the knife, 
which is also of the best steel, 
a support on both sides, and 
likewise permits it to be made 
very thin, thereby reducing 
the resistance of the wood, and 
making an easier and smoother 
cut than is possible by any 
other device. The knife being connected with 
and operated upon by a metal rod attached to 
the lever, it will readily be seen that the power 
afforded is immense, and infinitely greater than 
is possible to be obtained by an implement 
worked by a cord or spring, whilst the branch, 
being encircled by the hook is altogether under 
the control of the operator, and cannot escape 
until the portion to be removed is severed.” 
One great recommendation of the imple¬ 
ment will be, that up to a height of 12 ft. or 
14 ft. it does away with the necessity for steps 
and ladders, and thus greatly facilitates the 
execution of the work. In using it, the hook 
should be placed over the twig or branchlet to 
