JANUARY 
15 
to bloom early, may be plunged in bottom 
heat towards the end of the month. Orchids. 
—These will be mostly in a state of rest, and 
merely want a comparatively cool and dry 
atmosphere till they commence their new 
growth. As soon, however, as they show in¬ 
dications of starting, let them be potted or re¬ 
dressed at once, or the newly-formed roots, if 
allowed to grow any length, would probably 
get injured afterwards. Those kinds which 
grow, more or less, at all seasons will require 
a night temperature of 60°, with an increase 
of 10° by day. Syringe the blocks, baskets, 
&c., each sunny day, and keep the internal 
air moderately humid by damping the pipes 
as occasion requires. 
GREENHOUSE. 
Where softwooded plants are principally 
grown a night temperature of 40° to 45°, with 
an increase of 10° by day, will be requisite. 
Camellias, as they swell their flower-buds, 
may be encouraged by weak manure-water. 
Train climbing plants, as they advance, to their 
respective supports, and guard against damp 
and mildew by proper aeration and the appli¬ 
cation of sulphur. Azaleas .—Water must be 
sparingly given, and only when the plants are 
dry. Give air daily, according to the state 
of the weather; remove decayed leaves, and 
any plants infested with thrips should be 
cleaned at once, by fumigating them with 
tobacco three or four times, with intervals of 
a day or two between. Cinerarias .—Plants 
for exhibition should receive their final shift 
into eight-inchjpots—the size required by the 
principal societies. During this month give 
the plants plenty of room, and keep them 
near the glass. The side-shoots must be tied 
out as the plant progresses; this keeps them 
from drawing, and, if done properly, forms 
dwarf, handsome plants. Ericas .—Clean glass, 
good ventilation in mild weather, without 
exposing the plants to direct currents of cold 
air, and moderate waterings when requisite, 
embrace the principal points of treatment for 
the present month. Avoid much fire heat, 
as a substitute for which keep up the tempera¬ 
ture of the house by some protecting material. 
A canvas, or even a calico screen, placed over 
the roof, will do much in this respect; and a 
temperature three or four degrees above the 
freezing-point is sufficiently high, if accom¬ 
panied with dryness. Pelargoniums .—This 
is a convenient as well as proper time to tie 
out the shoots of plants intended for speci¬ 
mens. Keep the soil in a good state for repot¬ 
ting the July plants, which should be done 
towards the end of the month. Watch 
narrowly for green fly, and fumigate the 
moment it is observed. All dead foliage 
should be removed as it appears. Fancy 
varieties require similar treatment; they do 
not draw, however, if the house is kept a little 
closer than is desirable for other kinds of 
Pelargoniums. Give seedlings plenty of room, 
and water them but sparingly, destroying 
those that are “blind,” or cankered with 
disease. 
PITS AND FRAMES. 
Bedding Plants .—Damp is the principal 
thing to guard against at this season; place 
delicate plants likely to suffer most in the 
driest situations ; give air liberally in mild 
weather, removing the sashes entirely on 
sunny days (except in frosty weather), to dry 
the surface of the pots. Should mildew appear, 
dust the infected plants with sulphur. Water 
will scarcely be wanted, except in cases of ex¬ 
treme dryness, or unless the plants are in airy 
houses. Protect from frost by covering with 
mats, &c., by night. Cold Frames .—Our re¬ 
marks on bedding-plants apply equally here. 
The bottom of cold frames, for wintering 
plants, should be coated over with asphalt or 
coal-tar, and laid with sufficient dip, to enable 
waste water to pass off quickly, by which the 
surface soon becomes dry; whereas, when it 
is absorbed by a porous material, it is again 
given off slowly, and causes a damp, unhealthy 
medium for plants to winter in. 
FORCING. 
Fruit .—Those who want ripe Grapes in 
the end of May or early in June must com¬ 
mence forcing at once. If the border is out¬ 
side, it will assist'the roots to cover it with 
warm dung, to which additions should be 
made, so as to maintain a mild heat on the 
surface ; protect this covering from rain and 
snow by thatching, orthrowing a tarpaulin 
over it in bad weather. For forcing thus 
early the Vines should have been pruned for 
some time ; and now they will require dress¬ 
ing and training. Start with a temperature 
of 45° by night, increasing it a degree per 
week. Damp the Vines daily, and keep the 
atmosphere of the house moderately moist; 
give air each fine day, and let the thermometer 
range 10° or 12° higher by day than by night, 
with a slight addition during sunshine. 
Prune, dress, and train succession vineries 
and Peach-houses to be in readiness when re¬ 
quired. To obtain early Strawberries, plunge 
some of the earliest-potted plants in a mild 
bottom heat under glass ; this will bring them 
forward gently, and towards the end of the 
month they should be removed to a situation 
with a moderate temperature, and fully ex¬ 
posed to light, which will assist them to throw 
up strong trusses of bloom. Sow Cucumbers 
and Melons for the first spring crops in a 
good bottom heat; when the plants are up, 
keep them near the glass, in order to encour¬ 
age a stocky growth. Forcing Flowers .— 
Where Poses, "Lilacs, Deutzias, American 
plants, &c., are forced for decorating the green¬ 
house or sitting-room, well-established plants 
of the above should be plunged in a very mild 
bottom heat, to forward them; a deep frame 
or low pit answers well for them. As the 
buds develope themselves remove the plants to 
a warmer house; keep them near the glass, and 
