16 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
frequently damp their foliage. Hyacinths, 
Narcissus, Tulips, &c., with Lily of theYalley 
and Dielytra spectabilis, may have the same 
treatment. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Should frost occur, wheel dung and compost 
to the vegetable ground, and rough-dig or 
trench vacant ground. A crop of early Peas and 
Broad Beans may be sown in a warm situation. 
Sow likewise a few Early Frame or Short-top 
Radishes and Horn Carrots for an early out¬ 
door crop ; cover the beds with straw or litter 
till the plants appear. Give the autumn- 
planted Cabbages a dressing of soot on a moist 
day. Protect Parsley, young Lettuce, and 
Cauliflower plants in frosty weather, and give 
air to those under glass whenever the days 
are mild, to keep them from drawing. 
EllUIT GARDEN. 
Apples, Pears, Plums, and Cherries should 
be pruned in mild weather, and those against 
walls or espaliers should be afterwards 
nailed or tied in. Cut away the old Wood 
from Raspberry stools, selecting from three to 
five of the strongest canes for bearing; these 
may be tied up to stakes or rods, but not 
shortened back till the spring. Defer pruning 
Gooseberry and Currant bushes till spring, 
as many of their buds are often destroyed in 
hard weather by sparrows and other hard¬ 
billed birds. All kinds of hardy fruit trees 
maybe planted in open weather, if their roots 
are covered directly afterwards with half-de¬ 
cayed dung or litter, to protect them from 
frost. 
PLOWER GARDEN. 
Keep the turf, edgings, and gravel walks 
clean; well roll the latter after frost or rain, 
to keep them firm; let the borders and beds, 
if not planted up, be kept neat by raking over 
the surface. Protect half-hardy plants from 
frost with fem or branches of evergreens 
stuck round them, and cover the roots of such 
plants with sawdust or old tan for the like 
purpose. Roses. — Beds of Tea-scented or 
China on their own roots should be covered 
with 3 or 4 inches of ashes or old tan, or with 
5 or 6 inches of moss. Worked plants of 
Tea-scented, if in an exposed situation, had 
better be taken up and placed under a south 
wall, covering the heads with litter; or if not 
removed, tie fern or cuttings of evergreens 
on their heads, or cover them with a cap of 
calico painted and strained over a dome made 
of split Hazel. These will last for years. 
Lose no time in planting as soon as the frost 
is out of the ground. 
PLORISTS’ PLOWERS. 
Auriculas. —The plants will remain quiet 
another month. The directions given in our 
last should be attended to. If the frames are 
in an exposed situation, more covering will 
be required during severe weather. Carna¬ 
tions and Ricotees.— Keep the frames open on 
all occasions when the weather will permit, 
water only when absolutely necessary. A 
good fumigating during this month is very 
beneficial by keeping aphides under. It 
gives the plants a yellow appearance for a 
time, but they soon recover, and are none the 
worse for it. The compost for these plants 
should be well turned and frosted during the 
winter, keeping snow from it. Dahlias .— 
Choice new varieties, if a large increase is 
desired, may now be put to work in a steady 
heat. Roots of others, if not keeping well, or 
rotting down the stem, may also be started ; 
for once fairly started they are safe ; and if 
but a few plants are required from them, they 
may be placed in a cooler house. Pot-roots 
are the most easily wintered; these should re¬ 
main under the stage of the greenhouse till 
March, when they should be started. If not 
already done, trench the ground intended for 
Dahlias next season, and it should remain 
thrown up rough till May. Fuchsias. —These, 
after cutting them in and repotting them in 
fresh soil, may now be placed in a gentle moist 
heat to start them. Young cuttings strike very 
readily at this season, and will make good 
plants for June and July. The Fuchsia is 
easily grown, but succeeds best in a rich soil. 
Seed should be sown this month. Hollyhocks. 
—Cuttings will require careful watching this 
month, to prevent their damping off. Go 
over them daily, and strip them of decayed 
leaves, and dry them when the weather will 
admit of its being done without injury to the 
cuttings. The old stools and established 
plants will remain nearly dormant for another 
month, and will take no harm if wintered in 
a suitable pit or frame; a cold, damp situa¬ 
tion should be avoided. They winter well in 
the front of a greenhouse; but this cannot 
often be spared for the Hollyhock, which is 
anything but an interesting subject in the 
winter months. Pansies. —The soil for bloom¬ 
ing these in pots, which should have been 
prepared in summer, must be well turned 
and kept tolerably dry, in readiness for use 
the first week in February, when they require 
their final repotting, pegging out the shoots 
at regular distances. The plants should be 
raised near the glass, and grown as hardy as 
possible. The frames should only be closed 
during very bad weather. Pinks , after severe 
weather, should be gone over on a fine day, 
pressing firmly into the soil such as may have 
been loosened by frost. Very choice varieties 
should be protected from cutting winds, by 
placing small propagating-glasses over them 
during their continuance, removing the glasses 
as often as it is fine. Tulips. —These, if they 
have not yet made their appearance above 
ground, will only require the ordinary 
treatment of covering during rain or 
snow. The frost must be severe indeed 
to injure them before they make their appear¬ 
ance, particularly if the beds have been 
kept dry. 
