64 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
borders for summer flowers should be at once 
proceeded with. Prepare compost required 
for bedding plants; replant and divide all 
kinds of herbaceous plants as early in the 
month as possible. Tigridias, Gladiolus, &c., 
should be planted towards the end of the 
month. Gravel walks should be swept and 
rolled frequently in fine weather. Level 
down, and rake over ground which has been 
forked up during winter, to give as neat an 
appearance as possible to this department. 
Roses may be planted even up to the end of 
the month ; and although we have done this 
successfully as late as the first week in May, 
when the weather continued open, we cannot 
recommend planting being delayed a day 
longer than is necessary. We would advise 
that only the wood which is to be entirely re¬ 
moved be cut out at present; leave shorten¬ 
ing the shoots (always to an outer bud) till all 
chance of severe frost is quite over. The 
directions given last month respecting pot 
Roses apply equally well to this. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas .—These will require more mois¬ 
ture now that they are throwing up their 
trusses of bloom, but give plenty of air. 
Cover carefully during frosty nights; being- 
in a growing state, they are much more likely 
to be injured in March by frost than at any 
previous time* If some of the varieties appear 
to be throwing up their bloom too early for 
exhibition, remove such to a shady northern 
aspect; this will afford a better head of bloom 
at any given time. Clean the glass if it has 
become dirty from covering up during winter. 
Carnations and Picotees. —The soil having been 
prepared, frosted, well-turned, and kept dry, 
and the pots having been washed, potting for 
bloom may be proceeded with, commencing 
with strong-growing varieties, such as will 
stand a little bad weather, which we must yet 
expect to experience. Two, three, and some¬ 
times four plants are put into an 11 inch pot— 
we prefer .three—and a pair of plants in eight- 
inch pots. In potting, press the soil firmly 
with the hand. Plants of upright-growing 
kinds require securing at the time of potting, 
with neat small deal sticks, or the chances 
are they will suffer before the time arrives 
for permanently staking them. As long as 
the plants remain in small pots, in pits or 
frames, look closely to watering them: their 
pots being full of roots, they soon dry, and will 
suffer considerably from the March winds if 
this is not attended to. Those who have a 
large stock, which takes a considerable time to 
pot or plant out for blooming, would do well 
to remove their plants to a northern aspect, 
reversing the frames, and plunging the pots, 
however temporarily, in ashes. By remaining 
in a warm, southerly aspect at this season, the 
plants are prematurely started into growth, 
and their bloom much weakened. Dahlias. 
—During this month propagating the Dahlia 
will be at its height, being the best time for the 
general stock. .New or scarce kinds may be 
continued to be increased for a considerable 
time later. The reason we prefer plants from 
cuttings taken in this month is, that being in 
good time, they do not require forcing to 
make them forward enough, and are not too 
early to become stunted. Towards the end 
of the month start pot-roots in gentle heat, 
moistening them once a-day. As soon as the 
shoots have pushed from half an inch to an 
inch pot them into four-inch pots, using rich 
soil; draining the pots with a little coarse 
leaf mould, instead of broken joots. The tuber 
should be covered with soil, and care should 
be taken not to fill the pots with earth above 
an inch from the rim, as the tubers increase in 
size so rapidly that it is difficult to water them 
unless this has been attended to—the water 
runs away instead of into the soil. Those 
who can afford room for potting off then- 
seedlings into single pots when up, may sow 
seed this month; if not, it had better be de¬ 
ferred till April. A strong moist heat is best 
for raising it. Fuchsias. —The first-struck 
young plants should now be pushed along, 
repotting them into five or six-inch pots, 
using light rich soil. Fuchsias, as grown 
generally, are too thin of shoots, and too tall; 
close-growing and short-jointed varieties do 
well as pyramids, grown with a single stem. 
Coarser-growing kinds should be stopped 
once, tying the laterals, when long enough, to 
form a compact bush; grown in this manner, 
they will be found much more effective. Holly¬ 
hocks. —Harden the plants well this month 
preparatory to planting them out in April. 
Plants struck during winter, or this spring, • 
should have a good shift, and be planted out 
about a fortnight after the first batch. Seed¬ 
lings may be planted out in the end of the 
month, but should be secured from slugs or 
snails. Pansies .—Those in pots should be 
allowed to have gentle, mild showers; the 
frames should be kept open as much as possible. 
Peg out the shoots as the plants progress; 
small side shoots may be put in as cuttings. 
Any stock left in pots should be turned out 
into beds. If a few plants are planted in a 
shaded border it prolongs the bloom, by keep¬ 
ing them in colour during the month of June. 
Seedlings wintered in pans should be planted 
out. Sow autumn-saved seed. Pinks. —Top- 
dress the beds with a mixture of half-rotten 
manure and half good rich soil, choosing a day 
when the beds are tolerably dry on the surface. 
If any plants have been loosened by frost, 
press them firmly into the soil before they are 
top-dressed. Tulips. —Generally these will 
now be above ground, and will require care 
in protecting them during frosts, cutting winds, 
or hail; on all other occasions keep them open. 
Mats, stout canvas, or what is better than 
either, frigi-domo, makes a good covering 
during winter, or at night during the spring 
months. 
