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for if these roots are cut short off they are almost certain except they are very 
large ones, to strike perpendicularly again. The soil thus cleared out and the 
roots all free (except those which have been left undisturbed), the tree is 
turned over on the side on which the roots are left. 
“ The next time they are lifted, the roots thus left are cut off, and the tree 
is turned the opposite way. Thus, if the roots are left on the west side this 
time, they will be left on the east next, and so on alternately. 
“ I find on lifting a large tree, which has not been previously lifted, that 
some regard should be paid to the prevailing strong winds. Thus if the 
prevailing strong winds are from the west, the roots should be left the first time 
of lifting on the west side; but it does not much matter if we begin with 
small trees, supposing the trees are in single rows, running north and south; 
the best way then would be to turn them east and west. But suppose there are 
double, or treble, or more rows, and they run north and south, then it will be 
necessary to turn them at some other angle, so that the tops and branches may 
be as free as possible from coming in contact with other trees, say N.E. or S.W. 
“ The greater part of my trees, which have been lifted several times, would, 
if taken entirely out of the ground, stand on the surface without any support, 
and it would take quite a strong breeze to upset them, and, I think, the labour 
is amply compensated by the superior crop of fruit, both as to quality and 
quantity. . Perhaps I ought to speak more strongly than this, for I consider the 
crop pays several times over the expenses. But for my experience in lifting 
(for which I am indebted to Mr. Rivers ; for although my method differs 
materially from his, yet it has been suggested by it, and but for his I should 
never have thought of mine)—my trees, more than 2000 in number, would have 
been almost valueless, from my having to clear off my present garden for 
building-purposes; whereas now I might sell many of them for from 10s. to 
40s. each. 
“ I will now first give the dimensions of a few trees of my own working, 
which have been practised upon from their second or third year. 
“ I begin early in the season and continue till the spring, as I lift many 
hundreds every season; but I begin with the ripest first, generally Cherries, 
always choosing the mildest, but especially moderately dry weather (I find the 
trees suffer if lifted in very wet weather), and in filling-in, I never tread down 
the soil, and rarely have one blow over, not more than one in eighty or ninety. 
“ I begin on very young trees, say the second year after planting, and I 
generally plant maiden or sometimes two-year-old trees ; and if we begin so 
early there are no large roots taking a perpendicular direction. Great care is 
taken in pruning the roots while the tree is on its side and laying them carefully 
in, keeping them as directly out from the tree as possible, so as eventually to 
form a circle, and the soil is carefully worked over and levelled with a fork. 
The depth of the hole must be regulated as well as the width by the size or 
height of the tree; but none of the roots, even of large trees, are above 15 or 
16 inches deep, and of those which have been commenced with young (although 
they may now be large) not more than about 10 or 12 inches. They do not 
require any support in any one season to prevent their getting blown over—a 
circumstance which I consider of great importance. If trees are begun with 
when young and lifted carefully, they soon have an abundance of roots, and 
their lifting is very little check to them, except in making wood, and even this 
can be regulated at pleasure. 
“ In the following list of trees which I have lifted successfully, it will be 
observed that, though the process was commenced when they were very young, 
their growth was not much hindered. The height is given from the surface of 
the soil. The spread is taken at about 3 or 4 feet from the ground. The age 
