112 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST 
a few yellow Calceolarias. Keep up a good 
stock of Orange trees, Daphnes, and scented- 
leaved plants, for their agreeable fragrance. 
The temperature should now be kept down 
by shading and admitting more air; this will 
benefit Heaths, Epacrises, and New Holland 
plants, brought in for decoration. 
PITS AND FRAMES. * 
Directly ihese are cleared for planting out, 
fill them with Balsams and other annuals,to 
occupy the greenhouse during the summer. 
Newly pricked-off annuals for turning out 
may likewise be sheltered for a week or two 
in them, to get hold of the pots before planting. 
FORCING. 
To Grapes changing colour admit plenty 
of air; and if growing in pots, or in-door 
borders, reduce the water supplied to the roots; 
stop and train the shoots of succession 
vineries, and thin the bunches as soon as the 
berries are formed. Fires will be necessary 
for late Grapes, during the time they are in 
bloom, to insure their setting well. Vines at 
this stage should be kept as dry as possible; 
but, both before and after the blooming 
period, use plenty of water in each house, 
sprinkling the floors, walls, &c., often each 
day. Tie in the shoots of Peach-trees as they 
advance; thin the fruit by degrees. Do not 
allow many to stand over till after stoning, or 
you may lose more than you want; keep down 
red spider by the application of clean water, 
and the fly by timely fumigations. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Weeds by this time there ought to be none ; 
and therefore hoeing and loosening the sur¬ 
face round growing plants will only be neces¬ 
sary, drawing a little earth to Cabbages, 
Cauliflowers, Peas, &c., as you proceed. Sow 
Dwarf Kidney Beans, Longpod and Green 
Windsor Beans, and Peas for succession; also 
Spinach, Radishes, Turnips, Onions for salads, 
and some Endive for an early crop. Make a 
good sowing of Scarlet Runners in a warm 
situation, either to be sticked like Peas, or to 
be kept dwarf by topping when about a foot 
high. In the latter case it is well to spread 
some litter over the ground in order to keep 
the pods clean; this, however, need not be 
done till after they have formed. Prick out 
Cabbages, Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, and 
Celery, and plant out Vegetable Marrows in 
rich ground. Thin Beet, Carrots, and seed¬ 
beds generally when these are at all crowded. 
HARDY FRUIT. 
Disbudding the more choice wall trees, as 
Peaches, Apricots, &c., should take place 
gradually, reserving such shoots as will be 
required to afford the crop for next season. 
Thinning the young fruit when too thick 
should be done at two or three times, taking 
off a few each time, till the final number for 
swelling off only remain. 
FLOWER GARDEN AND SHRUBBERY. 
Where planting has been deferred till late 
in spring, mulching must be resorted to, and 
the newly planted trees, particularly ever¬ 
greens, damped overhead every afternoon, 
until they commence growing, when watering 
at the roots will suffice in dry weather. Sup¬ 
posing the beds for the summer-flowering 
plants to have been duly prepared with the 
proper compost necessary for each kind of 
plant, the turning-out of the hardiest may be 
proceeded with, especially if there is much to 
do, as it will give more time for the others. 
Pentstemons, Dianthuses, Phloxes, and many 
half-hardy, biennial, and perennial plants, 
should first be transferred to the open beds; 
then may follow Verbenas, Fuchsias, and 
similar things; reserving Geraniums, Dahlias, 
Salvias, Heliotropes, &c., to the last. Annuals. 
■—Thin out those up, leaving three, four, or 
more in each patch, according to their size. 
Sow towards the end of the month for autumn¬ 
blooming. Plant out Stocks, Asters, &c., 
sown under glass; rich soil suits them best. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas. —A 3 soon as out of bloom, remove 
them from the stage to a cool north border, 
standing them on a bed of coal ashes. A 
temporary framework should be erected, that 
lights may be placed over them in very wet 
weather, but leaving them open at the sides 
on all occasions. Watering should be strictly 
attended to, and they will make fine growth 
by the time they require repotting, which 
should be done towards autumn. Carnations 
and Picotecs. —Look well and vigilantly after 
aphides, which must be kept under. The 
plants should now be permanently staked. 
The side shoots of strong plants will often 
start for bloom; these should be stopped, but 
not too early, or it will cause other layers to 
start for bloom. Dahlias. —Repot without loss 
of time, using good rich soil, and harden the 
plants gradually before planting out. Neither 
an early nor a large plant is absolutely neces¬ 
sary to insure good blooms; on the contrary, 
a late-struck plant is preferable to one that has 
become stunted in its growth. Seedlings 
must have plenty of room, light, and air, or 
they will become drawn, and will suffer when 
they are planted out. Pansies. —Seedlings 
should be often and carefully examined, 
marking the promising varieties when they 
are in true character. Propagation should be 
attended to this month, the cuttings being 
kind and healthy ; small side shoots are best. 
Autumn-saved seed should now be sown, to 
bloom next autumn. Never sow seed to come 
in bloom during the summer months, or it is 
difficult to ascertain what the seedlings really 
are. Pinks. —Thin out blooming shoots to 
three or four on a plant, according to its 
strength and the known habit of the flower; 
also disbud the principal shoots as soon as the 
side buds can be removed; water liberally, 
using weak liquid manure once a-week. 
Tulips. —Shading during the day, and keeping 
them exposed during the morning and even¬ 
ing, is all that can be done this month. 
