JUNE. 
117 
are taking fresh hold, the training of the plant should commence, fastening 
some shoots nearly horizontally, but letting their points have an upright 
direction, so that the plant when full grown shall have an orbicular form. 
Many of the shoots will need no stopping, owing to their comparative weak¬ 
ness ; but all the stronger shoots will need to be stopped several times, so as 
to insure compactness and regularity of growth. When blooming next season 
is resolved on, no stopping of shoots should take place after the end of June. 
Water will be required in greater quantity as the sun gains strength; and as 
the roots get to the sides of the pot, manure water will help to give strength 
and colour, using it in a clear and weak state. Were I not to think of bloom¬ 
ing the plants the following year, I would shift again in June; but, wishing to 
have flowers, I will not do so, but will gradually give the plant more air after 
July, to consolidate the little shoots. 
Autumn and Winter Treatment. —In August, in addition to giving 
more air in a greenhouse, I would prefer the plant to stand in a cold pit, with 
glass over it, air being afforded back and front. In September, I would 
gradually diminish water, and by the end of the month put the plant in a house 
where the temperature will not be below 45°, nor above from 50° to 55 Q with 
fire heat, during the winter. Water, also, should be given carefully, and the 
plant will be safer if the pot stand inside of a larger pot, with damp moss 
stuffed between them. In spring, the plant may have from 5° to 10° higher 
temperature, as the sun gains power, and more moisture in proportion, which 
will cause the flower-buds to show and swell. 
When in bloom, the plants will keep their beauty longer in a cooler atmo¬ 
sphere, and with a little shade to break the fierceness of the sun’s rays. V/hen 
done flowering, give what little pruning is necessary. Encourage the plant 
to grow, shift into a larger pot if necessary, keep close and moist until there 
is free fresh rooting, and, in autumn, give more air and sunlight, as already 
described, and house in time for the winter. If a little fly appears, smoke in the 
usual way. The most troublesome insect is the thrips, and the best pre¬ 
ventive is a free use of the syringe when growing, and frequent smokings and 
washings as soon as one is seen. If manure water is used from the droppings 
of animals, it would be advisable to soak the droppings at first in boiling water, 
which will destroy all vermin and their eggs, and the water may be reduced 
enough afterwards. In watering in winter, the water should be soft, and a 
few degrees warmer than the atmosphere of the house. 
F. 
CULTURE OF THE PEACH AND NECTARINE. 
It may seem superfluous to write upon the culture of the Peach and 
Nectarine, because so many cultivators have already given their experience on 
’ the subject. Now I have been a grower of these fruits for nearly half a cen¬ 
tury, and during that long time I have studied the various causes of success, and, 
what is equally important, the causes of failure; and the result of my reflec¬ 
tions leads me to the conclusion that there are several points of culture that the 
writers on this subject have either entirely overlooked or have not given 
sufficient importance. I have come to the determination, therefore, of writing 
a few notes on their culture ; and in so doing, I shall endeavour to treat fully 
of everything necessary to be done in order to grow healthy long-lived trees 
that will produce annually a fair crop of fruit. I attempt this with all due 
deference to those who have gone before me, and shall not, in order to set up 
myself as a critic dwell upon, or even mention, where I think they are mistaken 
or not explicit enough to be understood by the tyro in Peach-culture. 
