120 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
It will be observed that I make no mention of dung as a component part 
of the soil. It is a great mistake to put any manure of any kind in a Peach- 
border. It is injurious to the trees in many ways, the worst being in inducing 
young trees to make what gardeners call water-shoots, or, as the French term 
them, gourmands or gluttons. Such shoots not only rob the rest of their due 
nutriment, but, also, they seldom in our climate get duly ripened, and then 
become diseased, ulcerated, and gummy. If, however, in process of time the 
border become exhausted, then it will be proper in the autumn to lay on the 
surface a mulching of rotten dung. The autumn and winter rains will wash 
down the soluble enriching qualities of the dung sufficiently, so as to give fresh 
food to the trees. 
As to the time of making the border, I would advise the end of July and 
through August. The weather then is generally dry, and the soil is, of course, 
dry also. By doing it thus early the grass plants will perish, all but those on 
the surface, and they may be killed also by digging the border over two or 
three times before the winter sets in. 
Varieties op Soil. —The only successful adaptation of a different kind 
of soil to the above that ever came under my notice occurred in the gardens 
at Wheatley Hall, near Doncaster, the seat of Sir W. B. Cooke, Bart., where 
I spent part of my apprenticeship. The natural soil there is of a light sandy 
nature, which, though excellent with plenty of manure for vegetable crops, 
was found not to be favourable for Peach-culture. The river Don runs through 
the estate, and deposits a close, compact sediment. This is called “ warp soil.” 
A sufficient quantity of this warp was collected, laid in heaps, and when in 
a proper mellow condition the Peach-borders were made of it without any 
other ingredient. The then gardener was a Mr. B. Mann. He had been there 
for a quarter of a century, and used this warp soil with the best effect. The 
trees grew well in it, producing just the right kind of healthy wood, and bore 
excellent fruit annually. It is true the walls were flued, and we used canvas 
screens to protect the blossoms against late spring frosts, and in wet summers 
the fires were lighted to heat the walls and ripen the wood; but these pro¬ 
tective measures had been adopted before, when the natural soil formed the 
borders, and were not found effectual to keep the trees in health. Whoever, 
then, has such a soil conveniently placed near to his garden may make his 
borders of it without any fear of failure. 
Choice of Plants. —This is an important part of the business. When 
time of coming into bearing is not thought of much account, then maiden 
plants—that is, trees a year old—might be preferred; the cultivator then has 
the mode of training from the beginning under his own care ; but I certainly 
would prefer trees that have been trained in the nursery three years. I should, 
however, take the precaution of visiting the nursery early in the autumn and 
choosing the best-trained and most healthy trees, then and there putting a 
mark upon them. This plan is the best, and most satisfactory both to the 
buver and seller. Then, as soon as the leaves fall, the trees should be care- 
fully taken up, the roots packed in moist moss, and the trees so packed as to 
travel safely to their destination. Thus packed both at the root and the top, 
they would in these railroad days come to hand in good condition. Directly 
they arrive let them be carefully unpacked and planted as soon as possible. If 
the roots should have become dry, I would dip them in water thickened with 
fine soil. The question- now arises, At what distance should they be planted 
from each other against the wall? Some writers say 15 feet, and some as 
much as 24 feet. These are, however, extremes, the first being too close and 
the other too wide apart. The medium is the best. Eighteen feet is the 
distance I recommend. The best trees I know in existence now are at that 
