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distance. If, however, the walls are low—that is, only 9 feet or less high, then 
the trees may be planted nearer to each other, as the angles of the shoots will 
bring them soon to the top of such a wall; but if 12 feet high, then my 
18 feet will be a fair equable distance. As it will take several years before 
the trees will meet, standard-trained trees might be planted between those that 
are finally to cover the wall; but the cultivator must have the nerve to 
remove those riders, as they are termed, the very year the permanent trees 
require the space. 
Planting.— In doing this let the roots be spread out equally every way, 
and not covered too deep—2 or 3 inches are enough. By spreading them out 
horizontally the roots will continue to, at least, have a tendency in that direction— 
a point to be desired, for then the roots are within the reach of the heat of the 
sun just at the time the shoots need all the help the roots can give them. In 
most Peach-borders, for the convenience of attending to the trees, there is a 
narrow path formed some 2 feet from the wall. That path should be made of a 
trellis of wood, so that the soil may not be too much compressed. If the path 
is soil only, the constant treading upon it must be injurious to the roots. Let 
every cultivator, then, set his face against such a path, unless it is trellised. 
The planting being finished, the shoots should be securely fastened to the 
wall to prevent their being blown about with the wind, which otherwise 
would, in heavy gales, rub the branches against the bricks and bruise the bark, 
which might bring on in such places wounds that would canker and exude 
gum—a casualty always to be avoided. After that is completed, then lay a 
mulching of littery dung, extending a foot or so beyond the extremity of the 
roots. This will protect the roots from the frost, and will keep them in action 
all through the winter. It is remarkable what a large number of rootlets will 
strike out immediately after the trees are planted. It would seem as if nature 
was putting forth every effort to recover lost time in root-action in consequence 
of the removal, and the more these efforts are protected and encouraged the 
greater chance there is of the trees pushing vigorously in the following spring: 
hence the utility of protecting these young fresh roots, by mulching, from the 
winter’s frost. 
Pruning, the First Season.— It is a common practice to cut back almost 
close to the stock, not only maiden trees but even such as have been trained at 
the nurseries, for one, two, or three years. This, it is alleged, is done in order 
to get the centre of the tree well filled with leading shoots to form the future 
tree. This is an undoubted mistake. There is no necessity for it unless the 
trees are very weak indeed. Maiden plants must of necessity be cut down to 
four or five buds to obtain as many branches to form a tree for a wall, and 
nurserymen, perhaps, are compelled for want of a wall to cut back older trees; 
but when a three-year-old tree is planted against a‘wall as a permanent tree, it 
is a barbarism to cut it down so severely the first year after planting. 
Training. —There are only two methods of training the Peach tree that 
are worthy of notice. The first is the one generally followed, and is named 
the fan method, from the main branches spreading out in a similar manner to 
the ribs of a fan: the second is a modification of it, and was invented by Mr. 
M. Seymour, gardener at Carlton Hall, near Snaith, in Yorkshire. Good fruit 
has been produced by both of these modes of training. In the course of my 
gardening life I have practised both methods, and must confess that I give the 
preference to Seymour’s plan. 
The first may be described as having the young shoots on both sides of the 
main shoots, and the other—that is, Seymour’s—has the young shoots only on 
the upper side. It is necessary to mention that the Peach and Nectarine bear 
their fruits on the shoots made the previous year: hence if is needful to train 
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