JUNE. 
123 
As the plants advance in growth they should he tied neatly to stakes. As 
soon as the pot begins to get pretty well full of roots, they should all be shifted 
into pots large enough to flower in, using the same kind of compost as recom¬ 
mended for the last shifting. After they have been all potted they should be 
placed in a late vinery, or other house, where they can have a temperature of 
from 55° to 60°, with plenty of light and air. They should be frequently 
syringed, to prevent the attacks of red spider. They will not require much 
water until they begin to root freely into the fresh soil. They should have 
an abundance of air after they show flower, and liberal supplies of water. 
When the flowers begin to expand the plants should be taken to a cool 
house, where they will continue in bloom for many weeks. As they go out of 
flower water should be gradually withheld. They should then be allowed to 
go to rest, and be kept quite dry until the following spring, when they ought to 
be pruned back to four or five eyes, repotted, and put into heat, when they will 
soon show signs of growth. When they have made shoots about a foot long 
they should be shifted into pots large enough to flower in, and placed in a 
house where they can have plenty of light and air. They must be well 
attended to in watering, and the shoots ought to be kept neatly tied to stakes 
as they advance in growth. When they come into flower they should be taken 
to a cool house. After the blooming is over they should be gradually dried off, 
and rested during the winter as before. 
I have seen Erythrinas in the south of England stand out of doors during 
the winter, without any protection whatever, and flower very finely in Septem¬ 
ber. It is best, however, to plant in warm situations, and to cover the roots in 
winter with bark or ashes. Erythrinas also do well out of doors in the south 
of Ireland without any protection. In the north of England it is best to keep 
the plants in pots, winter them in-doors, start them early in spring, and plunge 
in the open borders in June, in sheltered situations. Here they do beautifully, 
and last a long time in flower. 
Stourton. M. Saul. 
CULTURE OF THE FUCHSIA. 
In growing Fuchsias young plants may be procured at any time from 
Christmas to August. If so late as August, they should be kept growing as 
late as November; but they must be sufficiently strong to endure going 
thoroughly to rest for a month or so, as circumstances may require, by being 
placed in a cool airy situation, and kept almost dry at the root. About January 
they must be introduced into a moderate heat, say about 55°. As soon as the 
buds appear shake the soil from the roots, and repot them into smaller pots, 
which should be either new or perfectly clean. Preserve the roots of the 
small plants; those of older ones can be slightly shortened. The soil should 
be prepared by being placed in some warm dry place, so that it may become 
gently warmed. Be particular about the drainage of the pots. Place a few 
small pieces of potsherd at the bottom of the pots, and add a thin layer of moss 
over them, to keep the soil separate. If this is not attended to, the drainage 
will become choked and the plant sickly; and, if this happens, they rarely 
recover themselves during the season. 
Fuchsias are like Radishes—the quicker they are grown the better. Let 
the plants be potted carefully, placing the roots round the pots, and settling the 
soil well between the roots, pressing it down moderately firm, but leaving 
sufficient space for water on the top. After potting is finished, plunge the 
pots where the roots will have the benefit of a slight bottom heat of about 75°, 
