135 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
crops, and train and stop, as the vines advance ; 
give less water to the first crops as the fruit 
gets ripe. Shading with some kinds of glass is 
absolutely necessary, or the plants will suffer. 
Sow for the autumn crops. Cold frames, now 
emptied of their winter stock, may be success¬ 
fully used in grownng Balsams, and other 
annuals, Fuchsias, &c., or late crops of Cucum¬ 
bers and Melons. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Sow the various vegetables required for 
succession ; and attend to the requirements of 
those progressing. Water Cauliflower, Spinach, 
Lettuce, &c., freely in dry weather, to promote 
succulency. Do not cut Asparagus-beds too 
much after the middle of the month. Plant 
out early Celery in rich trenches, and water 
w r ell; earth up Potatoes, and thin out other 
root crops. 
HARDY FRUIT. 
Nail in the young shoots when sufficiently 
advanced ; and follow up the war against the 
green and black fly ; diluted tobacco-water is 
the best remedy, if clean water fail. 
FLOWER GARDEN AND SHRUBBERY. 
Neatness is the great point to be attended 
to, now that the principal planting out for the 
season is finished. Keep the grass of the lawn 
and the gravel walks in the best trim by often 
mowing and sweeping the former, and well 
rolling the latter, which should be fresh sur¬ 
faced if necessary. Attend to watering the 
newly planted stuff in dry weather, and make 
up failures from the reserve. A few annuals 
should now be sown for an October bloom. 
Look to trellis-plants, and tie or otherwise 
secure them from blowing about; tall-grow¬ 
ing herbaceous plants will likewise require 
stakes. Roses are now showing their blossoms, 
which will be much improved by liquid manur¬ 
ing; mulching, too, in dry seasons is very 
beneficial. If the preservation of the early 
flowers is desirable, the Bose maggot must be l 
closely looked after; the green fly, too, should 
be kept down, and where mildew shows itself, 
first syringe with tobacco-water for green fly, 
and then dust with sulphur vivum; a tin 
pepper-box is a cheap and efficient duster. 
Roses in pots will require attention in water¬ 
ing ; the syringe is best if clear rain water is 
at hand, and the blossoms not too much ex¬ 
panded. 
florist’s flowers. 
Auriculas .—There will be but very little to 
do th's month beyond keeping the plants 
clean , both of green - ffy and decayed foliage. 
The pi hits should r Fbe crowded where they 
stand on .* north border, or be allowed to have 
tpo much A. Carnations and Picotees .— : A 
very impoi^ant operation to the exhibitor— 
viz., disbudding, will have to be attended to 
this month. Glo over the whole stock once 
a-week, removing such sidebud3 as are forward 
enough, and which it is necessary to displace. 
Two, with the centre bud, are a'fullnumber for 
any plant to carry. If blooms are required 
large for the purpose of exhibition, a less 
number will be sufficient. They should not 
be disbudded to their fullest extent on the first 
time of going over them, as some of the buds 
may fail. Keep down green fly by brushing the 
points of the shoots with weak tobacco water 
and pure water alternately to cleanse them. 
As the blooming shoots grow very fast it is 
necessary to'go over the plants daily to see that 
the bast that supports them to the sticks is 
loose, and to give them fresh ties. Dahlias .— 
The ground having been prepared as directed, 
these should be planted out about 5 feet apart; 
5 feet 6 inches will not be too much from row 
to row, for the strong-growing kinds. Use 
good rich soil, mixed with a little leaf mould 
to turn them out in, this will give them a good- 
start. Secure the plants to stakes when planted 
out. Dahlias suffer more from the first rough 
weather after planting out than when they 
become a little hardened; therefore, care 
should be taken to protect them as much as 
possible. Neither slugs nor snails will be very 
plentiful after so much dry weather, but they 
should be looked after near hedges on damp 
mornings. Commence trapping earwigs as 
soon as the plants are turned out; if mild and 
dry, water overhead every evening. Holly¬ 
hocks .—Secure these with strong stakes driven 
a considerable distance into the ground, mulch 
them with partly rotten manure, and keep 
them well watered. Side shoots should be 
taken for cuttings when ready, as the Holly¬ 
hock strikes freely at any season with proper 
management. A large stock can only be pro¬ 
cured by commencing early, and continuing 
to propagate throughout the season. Pansies. 
—Continue to put in cuttings largely : many 
plants die off in July, if the weather is un¬ 
favourable ; if a young stock is provided, this 
loss will not be felt. Sulphur the plants if 
mildew should appear; save seed from the best 
*kinds, those with smooth stout petals and well- 
defined colours. Pelargoniums .—June is the 
best month to judge of the quality of Pelar¬ 
goniums generally, but a few kinds are best in 
May. There is little to do this month, further 
than to prolong the bloom by careful shading, 
watering, and keeping the bees out of the 
house. Seedlings will be blooming towards 
the end of the month, and should be carefully 
watched, noticing their defects, to prevent the 
trouble of growing too many kinds the second 
year. It is necessary to grow them two 
seasons to finally ascertain the improvement 
on existing varieties. Fancy varieties should 
be propagated this month. These should be 
struck in a cold frame. If allowed to flower 
long before cutting down they are not so easily 
struck. Pinks .—Water freely if the weather 
should be dry. Commence propagating to¬ 
wards the end of the month. Pinks strike 
very freely under small glasses, on a raised 
hotbed. Care should be taken that the heat is 
not strong. Tulips .—rTake the canvas off, and 
allow them to have all the weather. 
