160 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
wash the trees, daily, to destroy red spider, 
shutting the house up close. Give air again 
hv nio-ht; a warm well-aired atmosphere by 
day, and a cold one by night, will assist the 
ripening of the wood. Pines. Give air liber¬ 
ally to ripening fruit. Keep those plants 
swelling fruit moist at the root, and syringe 
daily Pot successions; keep the bottom heat 
at a steady point, 85° to 90°. Air by night 
in warm weather will strengthen young stu , 
pot suckers for succession. Melons .-*-Give 
plenty of light and air to ripening fruit, bee 
that the roots get no check, either by the 
bottom heat declining, or through want ot 
water when the fruit is swelling ; sow for the 
last crop, and earth-up succession crops. Cu- 
cumbers. —Shade, or the fruit will be bitter. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Every piece of vacant ground should now 
he cropped with the various Broccolis, Bore¬ 
coles, Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, &c., for winter 
and spring supply. The above should have 
been transplanted before their final planting ; 
should the disposable ground not be sufficient, 
plant a quantity out rather thickly for re¬ 
planting as more ground becomes vacant. 
The principal crops of Celery and Leeks 
should now be got out; sow the last crops 
of Peas and Broad Beans; successions of Let¬ 
tuce, Cauliflowers, Spinach, &c., may yet be 
sown. 
hardy fruit. 
Pears and Plums against walls, where at 
all vigorous, should have about a fourth 
part of the uppermost growth of young wood 
removed, cutting back to two or three joints ; 
towards the end of the month the next part 
may be removed. Peaches and Apricots will 
require the summer wood nailed in; still keep 
a watch for insects, and attack them with the 
engine when found. Net Cherries, and stop 
and nail in the young wood of Vines. Straw¬ 
berries must be layered immediately the run¬ 
ners are formed either for forcing or forming 
new plantations. 
FLOWER GARDEN AND SHRUBBERY. 
When once the summer plants are on the 
move, the principal points to attend to will be 
tying up or pegging down, as may be neces¬ 
sary, watering in dry weather, and great at¬ 
tention must be paid to order and neatness m 
every quarter. Ptoses .—Decaying blossoms 
should be cut off with long stalks, and always 
to another bud. Where required for exhibition, 
it is often desirable to thin out some of the 
buds ; in dry weather liquid manure much in¬ 
creases the beauty of the flowers. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas .—These will remain for the pre¬ 
sent in the cool, as previously directed. If 
the border is well drained, it will take con¬ 
siderable rain to injure them ; wet in excess 
would, however, be injurious, and f< om it, 
therefore, they should be protected. The soil 
intended for repotting them should be turned 
over occasionally, and not allowed to become 
either very dry or very wet. Carnations and 
Pico tees should be frequently gone over with 
the watering pot, if dry weather prevails; a 
check at this stage of their growth would be 
very prejudicial to the bloom. Weak liquid 
manure may be used occasionally. I he grower 
for exhibition is fully aware of the importance 
of keeping down insect's, particularly aphides. 
The more clean and healthy the plants are in 
a young state, the less thrips are.there to con¬ 
tend with in the blossoms. Tying the buds 
with a small piece of bast just as they are on 
the point of bursting, protecting them as soon 
as they are open, and placing cards on the 
finest flowers as soon as the guard petals have 
dropped, will engage the attention of those that 
cultivate these beautiful flowers successfully. 
Should any pots have more layers than there 
will be room to put down, the smallest shoots 
should be taken off, and struck in a similar 
manner to Pinks. It should also be done 
early, at the same time as Pinks are put dow n, 
and a month before it is necessary to com¬ 
mence layering. Dahlias .—Planting will now 
be completed, and for a month hence there 
will be but little trouble required. The 
principal attention needed will be watering 
over the foliage with soft water in the evening, 
using a good rose, watering once a-week in 
addition, if the weather is dry. Insects, par¬ 
ticularly earwigs, should be exterminated. 
Hollyhocks .—Cuttings maybe putin to. a con- 
siderable extent this month, as, by taking the 
small side-shoots for the purpose, strength is 
thrown into the flower-spikes. Pansies —The 
first cuttings will be struck by this time, and 
should be planted out to bloom in September 
and October, when they will produce healthy 
cuttings at a season when it is no trouble 
whatever to strike them.. This is not the case 
in the summer months. Nothing is more 
difficult to strike in hot drying weather than 
Pansies. However, all the cuttings that can 
be procured during July should be put in, as 
the plants will frequently go off at this season 
in large numbers, and give but little indica¬ 
tion from their appearance of such a result 
being about to take place. Seed can be pro¬ 
cured freely this month, but it will not be so 
good in quality as that saved in July. Pinlcs. 
—The general propagation of these should 
now be proceeded with. If the top of the 
leading shoot is taken oft with great care, the 
plant will produce a large number of small 
shoots, which will strike readily towards the 
end of the month. Seedlings should be 
selected carefully as soon as they are in bloom; 
only those with smooth edges and disanct, 
well-defined lacing should be grown another 
season, to finally ascertain their quality. Tulips. 
—These having been taken up as dnectod, 
clean the bulbs as soon as sufficiently dry. 
Place the cabinet containing the bulbs m a 
cool, dry place, where they will remain quietly 
for some time. 
