AUGUST. 
169 
so much room as plants in the open ground; consequently, the soil in the pot 
should be proportionately richer, or if the soil is not rich, the roots should be 
fed with liquid manure. Even this is only requisite when it is desired to make 
use of the bulbs for another year, when they must be sustained during the 
process of ripening as well as whilst producing the flowers. 
My mode of potting bulbs is to use a soil composed of loam, dung, and leaf 
mould, as before mentioned. This is well mixed, and if there is not quite enough 
sand in it, add a little more : 6no gravel will do as well as anything. 
In preparing the pots, which should be perfectly clean and dry, I always 
place a piece of broken pot over the bole in each pot. This is placed so that 
it may not stop the exit of water, as it would do when the soil had worked down 
to it if placed with the hollow side upwards. I then place in each pot a hand¬ 
ful of crocks broken rather small, and then a layer of rough soil. This method 
of draining pots I find effectual, and it is important that it should be so. The 
pots are next filled two-thirds with soil, the bulbs are then placed with a little 
silver sand under each to encourage the fibres, and the pots filled up with soil. 
I like to cover the bulbs to the crown, but some prefer letting them stand up half 
out of the soil. 
For Hyacinths I like to put one in a four-inch pot, Crocuses about six, 
Tulips three, and Snowdrops about twelve in the same sized pot; for Narcissus 
I prefer putting four or five round a larger pot, as I think they show so much 
better in a fine cluster ; and Hyacinths the same if they are matched in colour 
and height, but they sometimes vary so in height as to spoil the effect in a large 
pot. 
When all are potted, they are placed close together on a level piece of 
ground where there is no chance of the water standing, the labels are then 
raised on sticks about 8 inches high, and all are then covered with common 
earth or any loose mould. I prefer this to ashes, sawdust, or any other material, 
as it leaves no unpleasant appearance on the surface of the soil, as ashes and 
sawdust do if not thoroughly cleaned off. The labels are left just above the soil, 
so that it is easily seen where each sort is—a matter of importance where thej 7- 
are to be drawn at different times for forcing or otherwise, as one can be taken 
out without disturbing the others. If they are not wanted for forcing it is not 
advisable to uncover them till March if they are in a frame. The soil may be 
scraped away from the crowns a little in February, and the Narcissuses en- 
couraged, and covered up again, as they are apt to root over the sides of the pots. 
For window decoration these bulbs are invaluable, and in a warm room some 
may be got on much earlier than others, so that a succession may be kept up 
for a long time. When grown for window decoration the treatment is the same 
as if grown for the conservatory, until they are divested of their winter cover¬ 
ing, and then the only difference is, that in one case they have a glass roof over 
them, and in the other they receive the light all on one side, and are apt to get 
drawn out of the perpendicular. A suitable stick should be provided, or they 
are apt to break off with their own weight; but in either case, after flowering, 
they may be planted in the borders, and they will flower there another season, 
although not so strongly. 
All bulbs- that have flowered in pots one season can be planted out in the 
borders, where they are more likely to come up again and flower than if kept 
in pots. In fact, I have known Hyacinths flower successively for many seasons 
after being thus turned out of pots in which they have flowered already, and 
while this can be done there is no need to throw any away, as a few new bulbs 
may be procured every year for flowering in pots, and afterwards used to replenish 
the borders, where they will not be lost. 
Of the merits of growing, or rather flowering, Hyacinths in glasses, I have 
i 2 
