184 
TIIE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
goniums, Fuchsias, Gladiolus, &c., for the 
show-house, as well as Balsams and other 
showy annuals. 
FORCING. 
If the leaves in the earliest-forced vineries 
and Peach-houses are turning yellow, the 
sashes may he removed at once. Continue a 
dryish heat and good ventilation to Grapes 
now colouring. The last house should he 
finally thinned; Muscats, if not ripe, will want 
fires in wet weather. Cucumbers .—Sow for 
winter, if not already done. Melons. —Main¬ 
tain a steady bottom heat to advancing crops ; 
turn out the last crop. Pines .—Fruit for 
autumn and winter should now he showing. 
Keep the syringe from the fruit while in 
hloom. Shift succession plants into their 
fruiting pots, and plant out. If grown on the 
open-hed system plenty of air is indispensable 
at this stage. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Let the remains of the spring crops he 
cleared off the ground directly they are over, 
to make room for additional plantings of 
Broccolis, &c. Sow Spinach to stand the 
winter, and plant a breadth of Endive. The 
usual hoeing and cleaning among growing- 
crops of ail kinds must he attended to. Sow a 
good breadth of Turnips to stand the winter. 
Cabbage for the first crop should be sown 
without delay. Cauliflowers to stand the 
winter in frames and for hand-glasses should 
be sown from the 18th to the 2oth, according 
to the locality. Sow towards the middle of 
the month Onions and Lettuces for standing 
over the winter. Earth up Celery, Leeks, and 
Cardoons, for the earliest supply. 
HARDY FRUIT. 
Proceed with cutting back, as advised last 
month, and nailing in • the summer wood. 
Keep down aphides. The sooner Strawberry 
plantations are made the greater the •chance 
of a crop next season; rich deep loamy soil, 
with a good dressing of dung, is the most 
suitable for them; remove runners from esta¬ 
blished plants, unless wanted for stock. 
FLOWER GARDEN AND SHRUBBERY. 
Let everything wanting support be provided 
in due time with proper stakes, &c. Attend 
strictly to neatness in the borders, lawns, and 
gravel walks. Roses .—For aphides the usual 
remedy of syringing with tobacco-water has 
the desired effect, if applied in time; but 
where honeydew has covered the leaves, a 
soft brush and water is the only method of 
cleansing them, taking care to search the 
under side of the foliage : help, however, may 
be expected from ladybirds, whose larvae, 
known among hop-planters as “niggers,” do 
great execution among the aphides. Be care¬ 
ful, therefore, not to disturb ladybirds when 
seen near the plants. Continue to remove 
decaying blossoms as before directed. Liquid 
manure should now be freely administered. 
The doubtful autumnal bloomers, as William 
Jesse, Duchess of Sutherland, See., will be 
much more certain of flowering late if half of 
the strong shoots of this year are now reduced 
to half their length. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas .—-Give the plants a good fumi¬ 
gating, to destroy any green fly that may in¬ 
fest them. Early in this month the general 
repotting should take place, using well-pre¬ 
pared sweet soil. The pots, if old, should have 
been well washed; the size must depend on 
the strength of the plant; three and four inch 
pots will be suitable for the greater part of 
them. Use plenty of drainage. Young plants 
that have not yet flowered, and that are in 
small pots, will require repotting into a larger 
size after reducing the ball of earth. Seedlings 
should be encouraged to grow, by potting the 
strongest of them singly ; the weak plants 
may be put three into a pot, for a time, until 
they are large enough to be treated in the 
same manner. Carnations andPicotees. —Pro¬ 
ceed with the general layering of these with¬ 
out delay; all should be laid down by the 
20th of this month: if a week earlier so much 
the better. Those in beds should have been 
layered in the latter part of July, as they do 
not root so readily as when grown in pots. 
Transplant pipings into sandy soil as soon as 
struck, to encourage a good growth before 
they are potted for wintering. Seed is best 
secured by placing small glasses immediately 
over the pod, keeping all wet from it, but 
allowing plenty of air. Dahlias .—Continue 
regularly to water over the foliage every even¬ 
ing during dry weather, and give a good water¬ 
ing at the roots occasionally, according to the 
weather. If not already mulched it should 
be done without further delay, using partly 
decomposed manure. If the plants are at¬ 
tacked with the black fly, the best remedy is 
to make them grow as fast as possible, so as to 
grow out of it. Defer thinning the shoots and 
disbudding for a time, and these operations 
should be performed but sparingly at first, 
leaving a considerable number of buds on the 
largest varieties. As soon as they are suffi¬ 
ciently long, tie out the side shoots securely 
to stakes of a smaller size than those used for 
the centre of the plant. Pansies .—Plant out 
young stock as soon as rooted, and continue 
to put in cuttings; the surface of the beds con¬ 
taining the plants first struck should be often 
stirred. If a large increase is required, the 
tops may bo taken off and put in as cuttings. 
Seed should now be sown, and any plants that 
are attacked with mildew ought to be sul¬ 
phured. Pinks .—Transplant cuttings from 
the piping-bed into light sandy soil, choosing 
a dry day. Pinks do not like being saturated 
with wet immediately after being planted. 
The soil should be free from wireworm. The 
beds after planting out should often be ex¬ 
amined for grubs, which are very destructive 
to young plants. 
