OCTOBER. , 223 
gardener, at Green Hammerton, obtained it from Mr. Foster, and I got it from 
him some years ago. I have taken great care to keep it true, and should much 
regret losing it. In fine seasons the seed ripens well with us ; but fii cold, 
bad, late seasons it does not. It is very easy to tell it from all other Cauli¬ 
flowers in its young state. It comes, as we say in Yorkshire, as blue as a 
whetstone.” In growth it is more dwarf and compact than any of the other 
Cauliflowers, so much so, that it is sometimes mistaken by the inexperienced 
for Cabbage. 
I have now growing on a long border four sorts of Cauliflowers, which I 
have been cutting for the last few weeks. They are the London, Asiatic, 
Erfurt, and Walcheren. The last is in every respect very much superior to the 
others. The heads are all compact, firm, and nicely shaped, and as white as 
snowballs. Some of the others “ buttoned,” or the heads have been badly 
shaped and quite yellow before they were large enough for use. 
By planting out a batch of Walcheren plants once a-fortnight from the 
beginning of March to the end of July, I have generally an abundance of fine 
Cauliflowers from about the second week in June to the beginning of February. 
When the frosts are very severe in the autumn, they will kill the plants that 
furnish the earl} 7 winter supply; but it is not often that the frosts are so severe 
as to kill them all, especially if a good breadth (as there always ought to be), 
has been planted in July. By taking a little pains in tying up the leaves in 
frosty weather until the heads are formed, and then removing them to a frame 
or pit, or hanging them up in an open airy shed, they will keep good for 
several weeks. 
For the early supply in June I make two sowings in the previous August, 
one about the 10th of the month and the other about the 25th. If the season 
be a fine one, the plants from the late sowing will in general do best; but if 
the season be unfavourable the plants from the early sowings will be preferable. 
As I save my own seed, and generally have plenty of it, I sow several beds, so 
that I have a great choice of plants and some to spare. I plant a few out 
under hand-glasses towards the end of October; but of late years I have not 
planted a great many in this way, as, to do them justice, they require much 
attention during the winter and spring months in giving air at all times 
when the weather is favourable, and in covering and protecting them when it 
is frosty. Instead of planting a quantity under glasses for the early supply, 
towards the end of October I have a great number potted into 60’s or thumb 
pots, and place them in a frame or pit near to the glass. As long as the weather 
is mild the lights are left off; but in frosty weather they are always put on, 
and if very severe a mat is thrown over them. Any common garden soil will 
do to pot the plants in at first. Towards the end of November they will be 
found to have made nice roots ; they should then be shifted into 48-sized pots, 
mixing this time a little very rotten manure among the soil. When all are 
potted I return them to the frame or pit if the weather be still mild; but if 
very frosty I have them put into a cold vinery. If the soil be in a nice state 
when they are potted, and no fire beat is required to keep out the frost, they 
will not require much water during the short dark days of winter. I give 
them air at all favourable opportunities. Towards the end of January I again 
shift the whole of them, putting the largest plants into 24, and the smallest 
into 32-sized pots, and mixing a third of rotten manure among the soil at this 
potting. I put them back into the cold vinerv, where they remain until the 
middle or latter part of February; if the weather be then mild I have them 
put into a cold pit or frame to harden off before they are planted out. Unless 
the weather be very mild I give very little air for a few days after they are 
placed in the pit. After they have been a week or ten days in the pit I give 
