232 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
doors for the summer, should now be brought 
in. Let the tubs, pots, &c., be well cleaned 
before this is done, and the drainage looked to. 
When finished, the whole of the inside borders 
and paths should be thoroughly cleaned. 
Give air in abundance in mild weather. 
FORCING. 
The period during which the forcing-houses 
have been at rest will have been employed in 
putting them in good repair, and seeing that 
the heating apparatus is in working order. 
The first house, of both Vines and Peaches, 
may be pruned at once. The sashes may be 
put on the early vinery towards the end of 
the month, if very early Grapes are wanted. 
Keep late Grapes dry, by giving air night and 
day, putting on a little fire when the days are 
wet, to dry up damp. Vines and fruit trees 
in pots should now be placed to winter be¬ 
hind a north wall. Cucumbers and Melons .— 
Any late Melons still left to ripen should be 
encouraged by a little fire heat or the appli¬ 
cation of warm dung linings ; the bottom heat, 
likewise, should not be allowed to decline. 
Some late Melons will keep for a long time 
after being cut, if placed in a dry room. 
Cucumbers for winter bearing should be trans¬ 
ferred to large pots or boxes plunged in bottom 
heat, which should be kept steady at between 
85° and 90°; the night temperature should 
range between 65° and 70, with plenty of 
moisture. Encourage plants in full bearing 
by the application of liquid manure. Pines ..— 
Plants swelling their fruit must be kept in a 
moist temperature. We do not care about 
much syringing, preferring to maintain mois¬ 
ture by evaporation. Do not allow the bottom 
heat to decline below 85°; the night tempera¬ 
ture may be 60°. Plants required to fruit early 
will now be wintering, under the influence 
of a full exposure to light, and abundance of 
air ; they should, besides, be kept rather dry 
at the root; this will ensure good stocky 
plants with well-ripened leaves. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Attend to former directions. Tie up Endive 
for blanching, also Cauliflowers coming in; 
the leaves will protect the heads from frost. 
Plant out Cauliflowers and Lettuces in a warm 
situation, on rich soil, for covering with hand¬ 
glasses or cloches. The latter are useful for 
enabling one to have good salads throughout 
the winter; therefore place some over well- 
established Lettuce plants towards the end of 
the month. Let the kitchen garden have a good 
cleaning before winter, removing everything 
which will give harbour to slugs and vermin. 
Still continue to hoe between advancing crops 
Where Broccoli is growing too strong take it 
up and lay it in with the heads to the north; 
this will check its growth and preserve the 
heads from frost. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
Hardy Fruit .—Golden Drop and Impera- 
trice Plums on walls should be kept dry, to 
preserve them ; or they may be gathered and 
kept for a long time, by laying them singly 
in a dry room. As soon as the leaves begin 
to fall, fruit trees of all kinds may be trans¬ 
planted either to walls, espaliers, or orchard 
grounds, this being the best time for the pur¬ 
pose, besides giving you the pick of the nur¬ 
series. Secure the beds from high winds when 
planted, and mulch the surface. In the case 
of hardy and orchard fruits pruning may take 
place towards the end of the month, particu¬ 
larly if summer pruning has been neglected. 
\ 
FLOWER GARDEN AND SHRUBBERY. 
Pay a little extra attention to the lawn and 
walks at this season ; now that the beauty of 
the flower garden is on the wane, dead blooms 
and decayed leaves should be removed, and 
every means taken to keep up a gay appear¬ 
ance as long as possible. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas .—Keep them in a cool northern 
aspect for some time to come. See that the 
glass is in good order, that there may be no 
drip, and keep it clean; also give plenty of air, 
and but little water. Dead foliage and aphides 
should always be removed as soon as they 
appear. Carnations and Picotees .—Finis pot¬ 
ting for wintering as soon as possibe; all 
should be completed by the 20th of the month. 
Harden those that were first potted; they 
should not, however, be exposed to heavy rains. 
Keep all clean of dead foliage. Dahlias .— 
Secure seed as soon as it can be procured ripe 
enough, and look over the collection to see 
that all are rightly named before frost visits 
us, spoiling the appearance of our gardens. 
Mark any promising seedling for trial next 
year. Hollyhoclcs .—Seed can now be procured 
in abundance, which should be gathered before 
the rains of autumn have damaged it. Con¬ 
tinue to put in cuttings as they can be pro¬ 
cured, and pot up the old stools of choice 
varieiies for the purpose of propagation during 
the winter months. Pansies .—Now is the 
time for the general potting up from the store 
beds of the plants intended for blooming in 
pots, or to fill beds in March; give plenty of 
air, but not too much water; they can be 
effectually cleared of mildew if carefully dusted 
with sulphur before it has got too far ahead. 
Healthy cuttings put in now make excellent 
plants in a short time. Plant out seedlings 
for blooming, and gather seed from the finest 
autumn flowers for spring sowing. PinJcs .— 
Finish planting, if not already done, and pot 
up a few hundred pairs, to plant out in beds 
late in February, or early in March; they 
take but little room, winter well with certainty, 
and produce beautifully laced flowers, if 
properly attended to. Tulips .—If the beds 
have been prepared, as directed m previous 
numbers, plant about the 1st of November, 
choosing a very fine dry day. If the bulbs 
have not already been arranged, it should bo 
done at once, before any begin to push. 
