256 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
phyllums, Salvias, &c., will help to make 
a good display throughout the month. 
Violets, Mignonette, &c., are likewise indis¬ 
pensable. 
FORCING. 
Forcing-houses .—Where Grapes are wanted 
in April, the sashes should be at once put on, 
and the borders, if outside, covered with new 
warm leaves, 1 or 2 feet thick, which may be 
thatched, to keep them dry and from blowing 
about. Dry fern or stable litter will answer 
the same purpose; we ourselves prefer leaves. 
The temperature must be very mild at first— 
45° will be ample by night, and this heat may 
be kept up without fires for some time; in 
three weeks a little fire may be put on by 
night, and during wet or very cold days. As 
leaves can be obtained, it will be a good plan 
to cover the whole of the early vinery borders 
and thatch them ; the leaves will keep them 
warm and dry in the winter. Cucumbers .-—Keep 
up a steady bottom heat, as recommended last 
month; the top heat should not be much under 
70°. Give air at all opportunities. Keep the 
Vines thin and well exposed to the light. 
Surface the pots or boxes occasionally, and 
water with liquid manure ; if mildew appear, 
dust a little sulphur over the spots, and keep 
rather a drier heat for a few days ; fumigate 
for aphides. Fines .—Let the fruit now ripen¬ 
ing be fully exposed to the light, to give it 
colour and flavour. Very little water will be 
required, except to those just commencing to 
swell their fruit. Keep the stock to show 
fruit at Christmas dry and cool; the young 
stock grown in pits, &c., should likewise have 
the top moisture lessened by some means, as, 
if not prevented, too much damp at this sea¬ 
son has a tendency to rot the hearts in the 
winter. Protect from cold by night by suffi¬ 
cient coverings, and let the linings, &c., be 
maintained, so as to allow a mean temperature 
of 60° to the plants. 'Where hot water is 
employed, keep up the same heat by applying 
fires. 
K.ITCHEN GARDEN. 
It is now too late for planting. What re¬ 
mains in the way of Cabbage, Lettuce, &c., 
will be better left till spring, unless the 
weather be very mild. However, there are 
various things required at this season. In the 
first place, never allow any ground to be idle; 
dig or trench it immediately it become vacant. 
Continue to hoe between late-planted crops— 
Cabbage, winter Lettuce, Spinach, &c.; a good 
dressing of soot on a wet day will do them 
good. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
Hardy Fruit .—All kinds of wall, orchard, 
and bush fruits may now be planted, and the 
preparation of new borders proceeded with by 
removing all or a part of the old soil; do not 
work the new soil, however, when in a wet 
state. Let the borders be shallow and well- 
drained, the loam of medium texture, or rather 
inclined to be heavy than light, and use none 
or but little manure. Pruning may be com¬ 
menced. 
FLOWER GARDEN AND SHRUBBERY. 
What remaining beds continue to make a 
show of bloom should be preserved; the rest 
should be cleared away at once to make room 
for Anemones, Dutch bulbs, Crocuses, &e. 
Continue to pot choice plants for next year. 
Much of the beauty of the garden early next 
season will depend on the care which is taken 
of Geraniums, standard Fuchsias, and a num¬ 
ber of other things. When the rubbish is 
cleared away, well sweep the Grass, and put 
the walks in good trim, by frequently rolling 
them, for the winter. Foses .—If not already 
looked over to decide on renewals and ad¬ 
ditions, lose not a day. Do not allow one ill- 
grown plant to stand in a conspicuous situa¬ 
tion. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas .—Keep the plants in a northern 
aspect for another month at least; they should 
be elevated above the ground. Care must be 
taken not to over-water them at this season. 
The plants will require to be looked over fre¬ 
quently, for the purpose of removing all dead 
foliage as it appears. Auriculas are not in¬ 
teresting plants at this season; they must 
not, however, be excited into growth now; 
on the contrary, they should be nearly at rest. 
Carnations and Picotees .—Give plenty of air 
but not much water; the hardier they are 
kept the better. Damp must be avoided, and 
the plants must be kept perfectly clean. Holly¬ 
hocks .—Now is the best time for procuring 
cuttings of these from the crowm of the root, 
for the reason that they strike more readily 
and make the best plants. The summer-struck 
cuttings will be filling the pots with roots by 
this time, and should be repotted. Strong 
early plants will winter in almost any situa¬ 
tion, if the season is not too wet. Pansies .— 
These either having been potted-up or planted 
out for blooming, as previously directed, will 
require but very little attention for a time. 
Those in frames should be grown as hardy as 
possible, by keeping the lights off whenever 
the weather is fine, tilting them back and 
front at other times. Cuttings may still be 
put in for the second or summer bloom. Pinks. 
—Examine the beds occasionally for grubs, 
which are often very destructive at this season. 
If a few plants of each variety have been 
potted as recommended last month, they will 
come in very useful for filling up any vacan¬ 
cies made by insects or other causes. Loosen 
the surface of the beds when dry, to prevent 
the soil from becoming green and sour. Tulips. 
—Plant at the first favourable opportunity, 
choosing a fine dry day, when the soil is in 
good order. The bed may be protected for a 
short time by any temporary covering, if the 
weather is wet, to keep the soil dry till a fair 
day arrives. The offsets should have been 
planted in October. Use fine sandy soil about 
the roots. 
