66 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ March, 
get a strong break, but by removing the flowers only and leaving the last pair 
of leaves attached to the weak stem, we get a still weaker break, only to show 
flowers again before making half the required growth. The plants becoming 
too large for their place by April, they were removed to the stove, where they 
remained until after the middle of June, when they were taken to the con¬ 
servatory, where they did duty till the beginning of November. They will grow 
in almost any soil, but a compost consisting of two parts loam, one part peat, and 
one part rotten dung, with a free admixture of silver-sand, seems to suit them 
well.— Thomas Winkworth, HolJcham Gardens. 
FLOWER-GARDEN MANAGEMENT.—MARCH. 
1DVANTAGE should be taken of fine weather to forward all out-door 
operations. The digging and raking of borders, planting of trees and 
shrubs, making of walks, laying of turf (see p. 60), and all other descriptions 
of work should be carried on vigorously, and finished as soon as possible. 
When digging the borders of Herbaceous plants, all overgrown specimens should 
be lifted, divided, and replanted. Beds and borders containing Hardy Bulbs 
should be dressed as soon as these make their appearance above ground ; if done 
before, there is danger of injuring them. Tulips and Hyacinths must be protected 
in bad weather. Plant last year’s layers of Carnations in beds to flower, and put 
some also into larger pots to bloom. Plant out Hollyhocks , also seedling Pansies , 
and roots of Gladioli. Clean and dress Pinks and Pansies. Finish planting and 
pruning Poses. Sow hardy Annuals towards the end of the month. Sweep 
and roll lawns three or four times during the month, whilst they are moist, they 
will then be ready for the mowing machine next month. Clean and roll walks. 
In-Doors. —All large specimen Hard-wooded plants that are advancing into 
bloom will require to be well attended to in watering ; give air freely in mild 
weather, but carefully guard against cold draughts. Proceed with the potting of the 
young stock, but avoid over-potting ; see that the pots are clean and well drained, 
and that the fresh soil between the ball of earth and the sides of the pot is pressed 
in firmly. Keep all newly potted plants rather close until they begin to make fresh 
roots into the new soil, when air may be given more freely. Great care should 
be taken in watering not to give them too much ; they should be allowed to stand 
for a few days after potting, before they are watered at all, and then it should be 
done thoroughly. With the increasing heat of the sun Soft-wooded plants will 
now begin to grow freely. Shift Calceolarias into their flowering pots ; water 
carefully and give air freely; give air freely to Cinerarias , to prevent mildew, 
and fumigate occasionally, as they are very subject to the green-fly. Pot off 
Fuchsia cuttings when rooted, and keep them in a nice growing heat. Old plants 
of Fuchsias now growing should be taken out of their pots, have all the old loose 
soil removed, and be potted in smaller pots ; they should then be put into a gentle 
heat to start them afresh, and will soon begin to make fresh roots and be fit to 
shift into larger pots. Give plants in frames and pits air freely in fine weather. 
