1872. ] 
VINE CULTURE. 
87 
wards, until the outside space is filled. In preparing the border draining must be 
the first work. A main drain should be cut at the lower end, and the bottom of 
the border made to fall gently towards it. The bottom should be concreted with 
lime and small stones, so that the water may freely pass into the drain ; this 
also keeps the roots from penetrating the subsoil. When the concrete has set, 
cover it to the depth of 6 in. with broken stones ; if the soil is heavy, cover these 
with turf, and the space is then ready to receive the compost, which should consist 
of rather heavy fibry loam, broken bones, and lime rubbish, well mixed together, 
and filled in so as to raise it a little above the ground level. 
The house is now ready for planting, but before planting there must be pro¬ 
pagation. This is effected by means of eyes taken from matured plants. They 
should be procured in the autumn from well-ripened shoots, and kept in damp 
soil till January of the following year ; each eye should then be cut separately, 
leaving an inch of wood below the bud; insert these in soil up to the eye, and 
place them in gentle heat for a short time, gradually raising the temperature till 
they break. In six weeks they should be ready for potting off, using pots accord¬ 
ing to the size of the plants, and giving them a good strong loam. Place them in a 
house with top and bottom-heat ranging about 70°. In a short time they will 
require shifting into 8-in. or 10-in. pots. The soil should be made a little richer 
than before, with bone-dust or good dung. In these pots they will grow suffi¬ 
ciently strong for planting. By June or July they should be ready for removing 
to their permanent quarters, carefully planting one to every rafter, laying the roots 
all inwards, as they will soon find their way to the outside when this is prepared 
for them. The house should be kept at 70° fire-heat, and be shut up early, syring¬ 
ing over head. By autumn they will be well established. Having completed 
their growth, the temperature should be gradually lowered, and all the air possi¬ 
ble given, that the wood may be well ripened, without which there will be no 
success. Many prefer to plant later in the autumn or in winter, when in a dor¬ 
mant state. * In both cases prune well back, especially if the rods are weak. 
In spring allow the plants their own time in breaking, as by so doing they 
start much stronger. After they once move, be sure they receive no check by a 
fall of temperature at night, or by admitting too much cold air during the day. 
Water copiously when required, keeping the paths and border sprinkled in bright 
weather. Pinching and training must be commenced as soon as the shoots are 
sufficiently long. Thin them out to one foot apart alternately on each side of 
the rod, to procure strong, short-jointed wood ; pinch them at the sixth joint, 
and at every joint after. Thus ends the second year. 
In the following year, start the house according to the time at which the fruit 
is required. In six weeks from starting they will have burst their buds, and will 
soon show the state of the crop. Thin the bunches well, especially on young 
vines; medium crops are best. When they come into bloom the temperature 
must not be below 70° or 75° at night—the former for Hamburghs, the latter for 
Muscats—and the atmosphere must be kept a little drier. After setting, which 
