182 
THE FLORIST AND P0M0L0GI9T. 
[ August, 
Let him proceed step by step, and his knowledge will grow with his Rose trees. 
Suppose him to be about to prune a young bush or tree ; he should be possessed 
of a sharp knife, and have his hands encased in thorn-resisting gloves. It is 
autumn, and he intends thinning-out only, but before he does this let him 
inform himself of the nature of the variety. Is it Perpetual ? Are the flowers 
given forth few in number and far between, or are they produced abundantly 
and in rapid succession ? Or is it a summer Rose ; and if such, of vigorous, 
moderate, or weakly growth ? Having answered these questions, if he will turn to 
the rules given above, he will discover how to proceed in each case. Next, let 
him study the tree about to be operated on, and mark out in his mind’s eye 
a smaller or greater number of well-placed shoots, standing at about equal dis¬ 
tances apart, so that he may realise a well-balanced head. These are to remain 
as permanent shoots : all others should be cut close to their base—and thinning- 
out is done. It should be noted here, that the more vigorous the growth of the 
variety, the greater should be the distances between these permanent shoots, in 
order to leave room for the free development of the broader masses of foliage. 
On the arrival of spring (March), the shoots left after the autumn thinning 
should be shortened. The same questions should be proposed as before, as to the 
nature of the variety. If it be a vigorous-growing summer kind, leave from six 
to eight eyes on each shoot; if moderate, three to five eyes; if weakly, two or 
three only. As to the autumnals, the vigorous-growing Hybrid Perpetuals and 
Bourbons may usually have from four to six eyes left on each shoot, the 
moderate and weakly from four to two eyes. The Perpetual Moss, Damask 
Perpetual, Chinese, and Tea-scented, which are mostly profuse and constant 
bloomers, can scarcely be pruned too closely; from one to three eyes on 
each shoot, according to the degree of vigour, will ensure an abundance of good 
flowers. 
While I recommend thinning-out supernumerary shoots in autumn, and 
shortening those that are left in spring, as the safest and best practice, yet, if 
the shortening be done in autumn, the flowering will take place a few days 
earlier. But then the mild days often prevalent in winter induce the eyes to 
burst their cerements, and the young growth is liable to suffer more or less from 
subsequent frosts.— William Paul, Paul’s Nurseries , Waltham Cross , N. 
THE GRIMSTON PLANT PROTECTOR. 
Cfrf HE many forms of Plant Protectors which have sprung up within the last 
few years, do but indicate a want—that of shelter from our cold precarious 
f spring—which is but too well-known amongst cultivators. That of which 
we append a woodcut, borrowed from the Gardeners’ Chronicle , is, we 
think, one of the best forms which have appeared, on the grounds of combined 
simplicity, efficiency, and cheapness. Mr. Denning, the gardener at Grimston 
Park, informs us that he has had about 800 ft. of these cases in use for some time 
past, and his experience convinces him that they will be found exceedingly useful 
