132 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ September, • 
Dickson’s First and Best, and planted tliem out 
in a skeltered garden, in excellent condition, 
staking and putting spruce-boughs on the north 
side. On May 28th we gathered from both. 
The field lot had done well, and, if there was 
any difference, they were a trifle forwarder than 
those planted out. It appears to me, therefore, 
that where early Peas are a consideration, we 
frequently treat them too liberally, by forcing 
growth; and this may also account for their 
early podding, in the dry sandy fields of 
Marlow.—J. Fleming, Cliveden. 
ROSES IN WINTER. 
E translate the following interesting 
paper referring to the culture of 
Boses during winter for market 
purposes, from the Journal des Roses (v. 63), 
to which publication it had been transferred 
from the Lyon Horlicole :— 
“ The question is, how to produce Boses 
during winter in quantities sufficient to be 
remunerative. One ought mainly to cultivate 
the floriferous varieties, such as the Bourbon 
Souvenir de la Malmaison and Mrs. Bosanquet, 
the Indian Cramoisie Superieure and Hennosa 
[Armosa], or even the Noisette Aimee Vibert. I 
have tried, on a small scale, with certain of these 
varieties, a system of culture which permits 
one, without much expense, to obtain Boses 
from the beginning of December to the end 
of January. This is the way I set about 
obtaining the flowers, principally from the 
Souvenir de la Malmaison, with which my ex¬ 
perience has been gained, and which also sells 
best:— 
“ In spring, that is, at the end of February, 
I pot into 5-in. or 6-in. pots, according to their 
size, 100, 1,000, or 10,000 Bose plants. The 
pots are plunged, and have no further attention 
till the month of July, at which time they are 
half-raised out of the soil, and left without 
watering till the end of August. If rains 
should occur at this period, the pots are com¬ 
pletely drawn out, and laid horizontally on the 
surface. 
“ At the end of August, I begin the import¬ 
ant part of the work. I repot each rose-plant 
in a pot of rather larger size in such a manner 
that, not having to reduce the ball of earth 
about the roots, I can readily slip in the soil, 
which I use dry, between the sides of the pot 
and the roots. The largest branches are pruned 
but very slightly, and the repotted rose-plants 
are plunged afresh in the borders. If a large 
number of plants are cultivated, it is necessary 
in our climate to begin repotting at the end of 
August, so as to finish by the middle of Sep¬ 
tember. 
“The replunged rose-trees are watered copi¬ 
ously every other day, and also treated w r itk 
dilute liquid manure, which is not stinted. 
Under these conditions, according to their 
natural habit, and influenced by the repotting, 
the waterings, and the manurings, each stem 
will develop from four to eight rosebuds. 
“ With the cool, fresh breezes of October, the 
buds will have become stationary ; and before 
the frosts of November come on, the pots are 
to be moved into cool houses, from whence 
they must be taken, according to the demand, 
into a house heated to a temperature of from 
10° to 15° Cent, [say, 50° to 60° Fakr.], in 
which the flowers will be perfectly developed. 
When the plants have yielded all their blossoms, 
they are again removed outside, and plunged 
where thev will receive shelter from severe cold. 
“ On an average, 100 rose plants, well culti¬ 
vated, will give 500 flowers, the sale of which 
should yield about £5. The plants, after 
blooming, can be replunged very closely to¬ 
gether ; some 40 or more can be placed within 
the space of a square metre [= 40 in.].— See. 
Griphe. 
FRUIT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. 
NEW edition of Mr. D. Thomson’s 
Handy Book* on this subject, enlarged 
and revised, has just been issued, and 
will be found all the more valuable for the 
additions which have been made to it. That 
it is a work thoroughly sound and reliable on 
the topics to which it relates goes without 
saying, the reputation of the author as one of 
our best practical gardeners being a sufficient 
guarantee on this point. The fruits of which 
it treats include the Pine-apple, the Vine, the 
Peach and Nectarine, the Fig, the Melon, the 
Strawberry, and the Cucumber. A Calendar 
of work relating to the forcing of these fruits 
occupies some forty pnges towards the close of 
the book, and this is supplemented by a few 
observations on heating by Hot Water. There 
is, besides, a useful Index. 
The object of the book is to provide a 
manual of moderate size comprehending the 
forcing of the different fruits above named, 
and in its preparation the requirements of in- 
* Handy Boole of Fruit Culture under Glass. By David 
Thomson. Second Edition. W. Blackwood and Sons, 
Edinburgh and London. 
