September 19, 1885. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
39 
are allowed to get too dry, the buds are sure to fall oft, 
at the same time care must be taken, that they are not 
over watered, as this is equally damaging. The plants 
should also be kept regularly syringed, as they are 
very impatient of a dry atmosphere, especially after 
being out of doors where they will have had the benefit 
of the night dews. 
Temperature.— From the time the plants are taken 
indoors, until they have done flowering, the temperature 
should be kept as low as possible, for the present ; 
plenty of ventilation should be kept on night and day, 
and later on, when it is necessary to close the house, 
or to have a little artificial heat for the sake of other 
plants that are grown in the same house, care must 
be taken that the temperature is not allowed to rise 
sufficiently to excite the Camellias, or the buds will be 
liable to fall of. It is no uncommon thing for Camellias 
to drop their buds just as they ought to begin to 
swell, and the cause may generally be traced to either 
allowing the plants to become too dry in the pots, or 
keeping the house too close. — H. 
-- 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
THE GREENHOUSE. 
Tiie Violent Storm of wind and rain, and the cold 
chilly weather that has since set in brings home to us 
the fact that autumn is here, and that it is no longer safe 
to leave greenhouse plants out in the open, which being 
so, they should be carefully gone over, and the pots ex¬ 
amined to see that the holes in the bottoms have not 
become blocked, previous to scrubbing and cleaning the 
same, before removing them into the house. That this 
may be in good order to receive other plants, the wood¬ 
work, stages, and glass ought to be washed, as cleanliness 
and light are very important, and that there be as 
much of the latter as it is possible to get during the 
dull season to come, it will be necessary to thin out 
all roof climbers, to let the life-giving element in. 
Chrysanthemums.— The aim with most people who 
grow these highly popular flowers is to get the blooms 
large, which can only be done by disbudding and high 
feeding, the way to carry out the first-named being to 
rub out or break away all laterals or shoots that show 
up the main stems, except just two or three at the top, 
and on these the big blossoms will come. 
Liquid Manure and "Watering.— What tells 
against the strength and vigour of Chrysanthemums 
more than anything else is letting them get dry at the 
roots, as when reduced to that stage, they lose then- 
leaves, and become mildewed, pinched, and starved 
in the bud. To prevent this they should be looked 
over daily, and thoroughly soaked through the ball, 
giving them dilute liquid manure three or four times a 
week, and after hot sunny days a sprinkling overhead 
with clean water, will do them much good. 
Staking and Tying. —Although it is necessary to 
stake and tie the plants to afford them proper support, 
no more sticks should be used than are absolutely 
required ; and these ought to be so placed as not to 
show, or be as inconspicuous as possible, as nothing 
looks worse, or detracts more from the appearance of 
the specimens, than to have the stakes bristling out all 
over their tops. 
Begonias. —Tuberous-rooted varieties of these will 
now require less water and close watching, or they are 
apt to go off by rotting at the collar, and to prevent 
this, any that have done blooming should be kept al¬ 
most dry and stood away in some cold frame, or 
other light airey situation, to ripen previous to storing 
them away for the winter 
Gladioli. Of the many bulbous greenhouse plants, 
few, if any, are more valuable than the different varie¬ 
ties of Gladiolus Colvilli, which being dwarf, small, and 
early, are well adapted for pot culture, the right time 
for starting with them being now, as the conns are dor¬ 
mant and may be sent through to buyers by post. As 
the roots are not nearly so lai-ge as the tall kinds, they 
may be potted five or six in a pot, the most suitable 
size for growing them in being 32’s, and the proper 
soil sharp sandy loam, in which the conns should 
be pressed firmly, leaving the crowns just out at the 
top. The potting over, all they require after is a little 
water to give them a start, but they must not have 
more till they get into leaf. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Transplanting Evergreens. —Never, perhaps, 
were Evergreens in better order for transplanting than 
they are this year ; the absence of rain for such a long 
time having checked exuberant growth, and caused that 
made to ripen and solidify, which being so, all plants 
of moderate size may now be moved with safety, but 
the sooner it is done the greater will be the success. 
Expedition in Planting, —The great point in all 
planting operations is to carry the work out as speedily 
as possible, in order that the plants may not be long 
out of the ground, as when they are, not only do the 
roots suffer through being dried, but the leaves flag, 
and shrivel, and the bark contracts, after which a long 
time must elapse before the shrubs recover from the 
check, and get a fresh start. To prevent the evils 
referred to, the way to manage is to dig holes before 
lifting the plants, as then they may be carried straight 
away, and popped in at once. 
Lifting with Good Balls. —In taking them up, 
the thing to be particular about is to secure good balls, 
which may be done by opening out a trench a fair 
distance from the stems, and then gradually removing 
the earth from among the roots with a fork, when any 
plants so operated on may be lifted with a moderate 
quantity of soil, and transferred to fresh positions with¬ 
out feeling much change. The thing to be particular 
about is spreading out the roots, that they may take 
their proper course, instead of being doubled up and 
crippled, as, when in that condition, the plants never 
do well. 
Planting High. —Another important point in trans¬ 
planting evergreens, is to see that their collars are not 
buried deeper than they were before, and in heavy wet 
lands it is better to have them even higher or above 
the ordinary level, and to make the ground up to them, 
especially if they happen to stand out alone, as then 
they show off to greater advantage. 
Mulching and Staking. —Why plants so often 
suffer after being moved is, through not being mulched 
and staked, for, however well they may be watered at 
the time, the moisture soon evaporates during dry 
weather, and if the heads of the shrubs move, the roots 
cannot get hold. This being so, they should have 
some half rotten dung or litter placed around them, 
and be staked and securely tied, so as to prevent 
swaying, and keep them rigid, when they will quickly 
re-establish themselves. 
Beds and Borders. —Autumn, windy autumn, is 
now upon us, and to be prepared for the gales we may now 
expect, all plants that have heavy tops, like Dahlias, 
&c., should be securely supported, or they will be 
broken down and spoiled. It is the practice with some 
to take the Gladioli up out of the ground as soon as 
they have done blooming, but the doing so is a great 
mistake, as the longer they remain where they are the 
better it will be for them while there is any life in the 
leaf, as the corms keep on growing, and ought to be 
allowed to ripen off of themselves. 
Anemones. —These are lovely things, and come very 
early into bloom, the best way to get them being to 
sow seed in the spring, and plant out, but those who 
have not done so can obtain roots cheap, and should 
put them in at once, the most suitable suituation for 
them beiug a warm sunny border, where, if they have 
light rich soil, they are sure to do well. 
THE FRUIT GARDEN. 
Vines Outdoors.— If half the skill and attention 
were bestowed on these as on vines growing under glass, 
much better results would be obtained, but instead of 
thinning and having their shoots regulated, they are 
left pretty much to themselves. As sunlight and air 
are necessary to ripen the fruit, all superfluous leaves 
and laterals should be removed that the bunches may 
be exposed to the solar rays, and if the weather again 
sets in dry, a soaking will he needed at the roots, which 
will enable the Grapes to swell to a good size. 
Vines Indoors. —The most important matter in the 
management of young vines is to get the rods well 
ripened, and this can only he done by keeping plenty 
of air on the house, both night and day, and at the 
same time having a little heat in the pipes or flues to 
maintain a dry condition of the atmosphere, which will 
assist greatly in hardening the wood and plumping up 
the buds, when they will be able to start strong in the 
spring. Pruning : To insiu-e this, and force as much 
strength into them as is possible, every shoot and 
lateral the vines have made should be removed at once, 
leaving only the main foliage up the sides of the rods, 
but taking every care of that in order that the buds may 
not be robbed of their support till it dies away and falls 
naturally later on in the autumn. 
Vines in Fruit. —The treatment these require is to 
have a little warmth in the pipes during the night, and 
on all cloudy damp days, so as to keep the air buoyant 
and active, without which, moisture is sure to condense 
on the berries, and not only spoil the bloom, but cause 
the Grapes to rot in the skin. To prevent this, the 
ventilators should always be a little way open, which 
will help the circulation, and do much good to the 
fruit. 
Peaches and Nectarines.— In eases where the 
roots of these are in inside borders, it often happens that 
trees suffer from want of water at this season, and when 
they do this, it is impossible for them to keep healthy, 
and free from red spider, so as to plump up their buds. 
Although it may seem useless to many to water after 
the Peaches and Nectarines are gathered, that is a time 
when it is of great benefit, as it much depends on 
keeping the foliage fresh as late as possible, and to this 
end it should he syringed, hut all the air that can be 
given must be kept on the house continually, or, better 
still, if it can he done, the lights removed, so as to 
expose the trees to the full influence of the weather 
till the winter sets in. 
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 
Tomatos. —The soaking rain has set these growing 
at a great rate, but as at this time fresh shoots are 
useless, the plants should be closely stopped and thin, 
that what fruit is on them may be fully exposed to the 
sun and air, the combined influence of which will 
cause it to ripen properly, and be of good flavour. 
Scarlet Runners. —These will now be independent 
of further assistance in the way of watering, hut to keep 
the rows in bearing till frost comes and destroys them, 
all beans must be picked off as soon as fit for use, for 
to leave any on to seed soon distresses the plants. 
Potatos. —If these are not already lifted, no time 
should be lost in getting them out of the ground, as, 
the long spell of dry weather, followed by such a heavy 
fall of rain, the tubers will soon sprout again, and if 
they are allowed to do this, their quality will be spoiled, 
and they will be useless for cooking. 
Onions. —The thing with summer Onions in getting 
them to keep well through the winter, is to have 
the bulbs thoroughly ripened, which can be done by 
spreading them thinly on the ground, and allowing 
them to remain till they are properly dried and 
hardened, when they should be stood in some open airy 
shed, by hunching them and hanging the bunches up 
to the rafters. 
Spinach.— To have this good, the necessary thinning 
out must be done early, that the plants may not be 
disturbed when they get large, but have plenty of room 
to spread and become strong before winter sets in. As 
a top dressing, nothing answers better than soot, which 
should be sown thinly over the beds, and the ground 
then hoed, which will destroy surface weeds, and let 
the soot in. 
Turnips. —The same remarks just made about 
Spinach apply to Turnips, which need encouragement 
to make rapid growth, and bulb quickly, as it is only 
when they do this that they are tender and mild after 
cooking. 
Lettuce and Endive. —To provide a good supply 
of these for salads, any spare cold frames should be 
planted, and the lights left off till bad weather comes, 
when they may be put on to protect and shelter the 
plants. Those who have not the convenience of glass, 
will find it a good plan to plant close up to the foot of 
a wall or fence, as there the Lettuce or Endive will be 
more safe from the frost. 
Queer Names.—A correspondent says:—“It is 
amusing how plants get queer names. ‘Joseph on the 
palings ’ for Josephine de Malines Pear reminds me of a 
joke of a similar kind. Recently a lady friend going 
through my garden asked a name which I told her was 
a kind of Lythrum. I was surprised some days after¬ 
ward to he told that the 1 Bed-room ’ plant I had called 
her attention to was certainly a beautiful thing. She 
wished me to note by this reference that she had re¬ 
membered the name.”— Gardeners’ Monthly , 
