10 
September 5, 1885. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
and grow seedlings in their stead. These may be had 
considerably cheaper, and are altogether more vigorous 
and free from disease, which from its contagion not 
only causes ruin among them, but may be seen 
rapidly developing in other plants. For a background 
in the herbaceous border for associating with shrubs, 
they are unequalled, and a few of them produce a good 
effect. To get the best results from them, obtain 
good strong transplanted seedlings in early autumn, 
dig deeply, manure heavily, and if you are not 
rewarded by bold, handsome flowers and towering 
spikes, the fault will not lay with your adviser.— J. 
-~>3=o- 
The Gardeners’ Calendar. 
Fruit Culture under Glass.— Pike Apples : 
Fruiting plants should have a day temperature of 75°, 
running up 10° higher with sun heat, and plenty of 
air. Maintain a night temperature of 70°, and damp 
the floors, walls, and plunging material morning and 
afternoon at closing time to promote a growing atmos¬ 
phere. Examine the plants every week or ten days 
to ascertain their condition at the roots, and when 
dry, give sufficient tepid diluted liquid manure, to 
thoroughly moistenthe soil, afterwards allowing it to 
become moderately dry before repeating the applica¬ 
tion ; over-watering being an evil to be avoided in 
most cases, but particularly so in Pine culture, and 
especially at this time of year. 
Successional plants will now, or ought soon, to 
have completed their growth; they should then be sub¬ 
jected to a lower temperature, and a drier and more 
airy atmosphere, so as to prevent the plants from 
making further growth, and to consolidate that already 
made, as well as to give the plants a period of inactivity 
before subjecting them to a higher temperature towards 
the end of the present year, with a view to inducing 
the plants to send up their fruit. During this interval, 
water must be apiplied both at the roots, and in the 
house or houses containing the plants, with judgment 
and care. The night temperature for these plants 
should range from 60° to 65° during the present month, 
and 5° to 10° higher by day, should be aimed at. 
Young sucker plants should be kept in a growing tem¬ 
perature for a few more weeks. All shading should 
now be dispensed with, and be put away dry, and out 
of the way for use another year. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Autumn Cabbage Planting. —Assuming that the 
ground, from which the crop of Spring-sowui Onions 
has been removed, was manured and trenched, as ad¬ 
vised at p. 811 of the last volume, the plants raised 
from seed sown at the end of July, and subsequently 
pricked out in nursery beds, will now- be ready for 
planting. This should be done in drills 3 in. deep, 2 
ft. apart, and the same distance from plant to plant in 
the rows. The plants in each succeeding row should 
be planted diagonally and when the ground is moist. 
Before drawing the drills, it will be necessary to tread 
the ground immediately under the line, as it is always 
advisable to have it moderately firm before the plants 
are put into it. With a view to rendering the roots of 
the plants 'distasteful to the Cabbage Maggots, they 
should be dipped in a puddle made of clay and a hand¬ 
ful or two of soot prior to being planted, and afterwards, 
should the plants, by flagging and presenting a sickly 
appearance, indicate the presence of Maggots at the 
roots, they should be looked after and destroyed, and 
the blanks thereby caused be made good with plants 
from the nursery beds. 
Pickling Cabbage.— The present will also be a 
good time to make a planting of Eed or Pickling Cab¬ 
bage. When this is sown and planted the same time 
as Cabbages, in the autumn of the preceding year, the 
heads become much larger and finer than those obtained 
from plants raised in he beginning of the current year. 
Cardoons.— Take advantage of fine w T eather, when 
the plants are dry, to get the earliest planted of these 
eartlied-up. This is done by bringing the leaves care¬ 
fully into an upright position, in which they should be 
held by one person, while another fastens the hay bands 
(of which a sufficient number for the row have been 
previously twisted) round the bottom of the plant 
winding away until the whole of the stalk is bound 
round, and the end of the band made secure. The 
stalks should be brought closely together, but not too 
much compressed. Proceed in this way until the row 
of plants is finished, and then earth till the bands are 
covered with the soil, which should be pressed firmly 
round the plant at the top, to exclude air and moisture, 
and proceed in like manner until all are finished. 
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 
Cabbages. —The main crop of these should now be 
planted out, but before that is done, it will be necessary 
to heavily manure the ground and dig deeply, as it is 
impossible to grow these vegetables well and have the 
cabbages succulent and good without planting in rich 
land, for, like all the Brassicas, they are very gross 
feeders. The distance at which the rows should be 
asunder depends on the sorts, but 2 feet will be quite 
enough for any, and 18 to 24 inches from plant to 
plant, while for the smaller kinds, such as Ellam’s 
Early, and Wheeler’s Imperial, which are the best to 
grow, a less distance will suffice, and give them plenty 
of room to develope in. Many plant cabbages on 
the level, but by far the better plan is to have them in 
drills drawn out by a hoe, as then the moving of the 
land after, in cleaning, gradually earths the stems up 
and gives more stability, besides, when any watering 
has to be done, it is easier carried out, and each 
plant gets what is given without any loss. 
Potatos. There is danger in leaving these any 
longer in the ground, as, owing to the great check 
they have sustained through the dry weather, they are 
almost sure to start again when rain comes. They 
should be taken up on a fine day and left exposed for a 
few hours, that they may be stored in good order, as 
their keeping and flavour depends much on this. 
Those for eating are best laid thinly in a dark cellar or 
shed, but those for seed are benefited by being placed 
thinly on shelves in some cool light airy position, as 
there they are slow in making shoots, and what do 
come are late and strong. 
Cauliflowers.— The cooler weather and longer 
nights are suiting these, and with proper help afforded, 
fine heads may be obtained after this, but to get these, 
liquid manure must be freely applied till we have a 
good soaking rain, after which the plants will be able 
to take care of themselves. Those intended for hand- 
lights or to stand the winter should be pricked out 
from the seed bed as soon as they are large enough to 
handle, which will prevent drawing and make the 
plants sturdy and strong. 
Endive and Lettuce. —To have a continuous sup¬ 
ply of these for salads, it will be necessary to plant out 
fresh batches for lifting later on to put in frames, and 
any now growing on must be watered to prevent them 
from flagging. 
Scarlet Runners. —These show their superiority 
over French Beans in the way they stand the weather 
and continue bearing, and if now assisted by a soaking 
or two of liquid manure, they will keep on till destroyed 
by the frost, but to enable them to do this, seed pods 
should be picked off and the beans gathered close, 
whether wanted or not. 
Mushroom House. —If not already done, collect a 
sufficient quantity of horse-droppings to make up a 
bed and successional beds in the Mushroom-house, and 
spawn them as soon as the heat in the bed has declined 
to 70°. 
Forcing House. —A hatch of French Beans should 
now be sown in pots for use in November. The post 
(8-in.) having been previously crocked, should be only 
half filled with soil, of a rich though somewhat light 
description, to allow of the young plants being subse¬ 
quently top-dressed to the rims of the pots. Cooling’s 
Ne Plus Ultra is an excellent variety for early forcing, 
as it is for general culture, the plants, dwarf and 
compact in habit, being prodigious bearers of handsome 
Beans.— II. IV. Ward, Longford Castle. 
THE PLANT HOUSES. 
It will now be time to see to providing a supply of 
flowers to succeed those that have been obtained out of 
doors. Therefore, plants that are required for that 
purpose should have encouragement. Bouvardias, 
Tree Carnations, Salvias, Begonias, &c., should be in 
their flowering quarters as soon as convenient, and if 
the pots are well filled with roots, liquid manure 
should be used liberally, especially for the Bouvardias 
and Begonias. Heaths, Azaleas, and other hard- 
wooded plants may be got indoors at any time now. 
Chrysanthemums will require tying, and the buds 
should be thinned out as soon as large enough ; it will 
only be a few of the early varieties that will be ready 
yet. Zonal Pelargoniums that have been grown on 
out of doors for winter flowering should now be taken 
in ; later on these will bear rather'a higher temperature 
than is generally given them, and if they are in a 
position where they get plenty of light and a little air, 
they will flower freely throughout the winter, Poin- 
settias that have been put out in the cold pits should 
be taken in where they can have a little artificial heat 
before the nights get much colder ; if left out too long, 
they are very liable to lose their bottom leaves after 
they are placed in heat. 
Shading.— All shading should now be dispensed 
with as much as possible. It will only be such things 
as tender ferns, young seedling plants that- have just 
been pricked or potted off, or any tender plants that 
have recently been re-potted that will require any 
shading now, and this should only be given through 
the middle of the day; in any case the shading 
should be taken off as soon as the direct rays of the sun 
are off. 
Vegetable Marrows.— Con. —The long, white 
Skinned varieties, of good medium size, find the most 
favour in the markets. Dark green skinned ones are 
not much appreciated. 
Hollyhocks. — J. M. - The leaves are attacked by 
the too well-known fungus, Puccinia malvacearum, for 
which we know of no satisfactory remedy. You ought 
to burn all the affected leaves at once. 
-- 
FRUITS, FLOWERS & VEGETABLES. 
Bees and Flowers. —A resident at Basingstoke 
having recently made a statement to the effect that he 
had gathered 1,000 lbs. of honey from 16 hives, an 
amateur florist, Mr. "Walter Humby, Skirbeck Grange, 
Lincolnshire, has stated his view of the bee question 
and indicts his neighbour and his bees, the latter for 
theft, and the former for receiving stolen goods. Mr. 
Humby writes :—“My small garden is limited to about 
half an acre, and I do not keep bees, at least, I have 
no hives. My next door neighbour does keep bees. 
He accommodates them on a lawn twenty yards square, 
with no garden. Thus, he keeps the hives, and I keep 
the myriads of his bees. My garden supplies ‘the 
sweets which would have been lost had the insect’s 
proclivities been ignored.’ Now, I pride myself upon 
my flowers. I study the catalogues of C. Turner, Paul, 
Cannell, T. S. "Ware, and a host of others, seeking 
to get the best and choicest specimens that money can 
purchase or love of flowers can procure. My ambition 
is to see my name on the first prize cards at horticul¬ 
tural shows. I would go any number of miles to be a 
successful exhibitor. But my neighbour’s hives are an 
eternal Mordecai at my gate. The hum of his bees is 
to my hope as the warning cry of the Banshee. On 
my flowers 1 the proclivities of the busy insects ’ are 
certainly not ignored. The moment my Roses show a 
disposition to unfold, a beastly bee wires its way to the 
very centre, with a score or more waiting outside to 
enter and complete the ruin. I look on and dare not 
interfere, though I know that besides the disarranged 
petals my precious Roses will show ‘eyes,’ and that no 
judge will look at them. The same with my Carnations, 
Picotees, Pelargoniums, and Calceolarias—every flower 
I have. What am I to do ? I should be sorry to 
injure my neighbour, but is it fair that he should have 
1,000 lbs. of honey out of my ravished flowers ? ” 
Dahlias Juarezi and Paragon.— Of all the 
splendid Dahlias, single and double now in bloom, 
none so completely take the fancy of visitors to my 
garden as these. The so called Cactus Dahlia, Juarezi, 
in particular, is a gem, its form is so distinct from all 
others, so pleasing in outline, and its scarlet colour so 
brilliant in tone. I regard it as the best to grow for 
cutting. Paragon, among the singles is still unsur¬ 
passed, I think, notwithstanding the hundreds of new 
sorts that have been raised since it was re-introduced 
to cultivation. Its maroon petals edged with crimson, 
one never seems to tire of looking at, indeed the more 
one keeps looking at it the more beautiful does it seem 
to become.— H. W. 
