November 14, 1885. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
167 
It is not general in England to find systematic train¬ 
ing of young men. The first start about gardens is as 
message boy, looking after the garden pony, and doing 
work of a very menial character generally. The next 
move is to the houses as “crock-boy,” working gradu¬ 
ally till age and experience entitles the youth to engage 
in work of a more trustworthy character. I have 
known youths rise step by step till the foreman’s place 
was given them, and in some cases, the position of head 
gardener was filled. But oftener the youth goes out into 
the world to push his way, overcoming difficulties as 
best he can, and one of the most insurmountable is the 
fact that his “ training ” has not been general (if he has 
had any at all), outside work in many cases he never has 
tried, he may be an adept under glass, and here, his 
experience ends. Often as a head gardener he has to 
depend on the experience of the labourers under him for 
conducting the work, till through the course of time, his 
observations gradually initiate him in practical parts of 
outdoor work. There are, however, many other sides to 
the question, in which, many of the leading men 
throughout the country fortunately became familiar 
with in their youth. When they showed talent and a 
liking for their work, their superiors took them by the 
hand, initiated them into the practical working of 
every department on the place, and if the youths 
proved worthy of the training which they received, 
efforts were made to advance their interests, and pro¬ 
motion was sure to follow. This, in my opinion, is as 
it should be.— M. T. 
Gardeners’ Association of Sterling. — This 
prosperous Association meets on the last Thursday of 
the month for mutual improvement, and the reading 
of papers on theoretical and practical horticulture, and 
discussions of the same by the members, takes up several 
hours at each meeting. One very pleasing feature in 
connection with these gatherings, is that some of the 
young men attend and take part in the discussions. 
I attended a very enjoyable meeting on the 29th of last 
month, when a paper, carefully prepared by Mr. 
Ritchie, gardener at Polmaise, was read by that gentle¬ 
man on the preparing and cultivation of plants for 
room decoration. Cultivators can hardly know too 
much of this branch of their duties. Most of the plants 
referred to were foliage kinds, which, I suppose, means 
that one on flowering plants will come next. Mr. James 
Mitchell occupied the chair, and a number of members 
discussed the subject—all approvingly. The meetings 
being held in Dowdy’s Temperance Hotel seems to give 
a kindly character to them. -M. T. 
-——-— 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
THE GREENHOUSE. 
Watering.— One of the great difficulties with 
amateur cultivators of plants is to know when to water, 
at least it would appear so from the numerous inquiries 
made as to that particular operation, and it would seem 
from the way the query is put that they are expected 
to require liquid at set times, and almost as often as 
the interrogators take their meals ; but though such 
frequent applications may do little harm in the height 
of summer, anything approaching such a wet condition 
would be certain death now. The thing with most 
greenhouse subjects at this season is to preserve the 
happy medium, and have the soil just moist, and no 
more ; the only exceptions to this being with such 
plants as Salvias, Cinerarias, Primulas, and Chrysan¬ 
themums, the last named of which if in small pots and 
well rooted, can scarcely be overdone, and to let them 
get the least dry, would injure and perhaps spoil the 
whole of their blooms. This being so, they should be 
looked over daily, and have sufficient water given to 
soak right through the balls ; but as this liberal supply 
is apt to engender damp, that enemy to the flowers 
must be got rid of by driving it out. 
Air and Warmth.— Although Chrysanthemums 
will not bear much warmth, a very little heat in the 
pipes or flues, to set and keep the atmosphere in motion 
does good, but at the same time there must be air on the 
house, and if the ventilators are slightly open by night 
during mild weather, the better will it be for the 
plants. 
Roof Climbers. —As there is little or no growth in 
these now, and most of them will be resting, the borders 
shouldbekeptmoderatelydryfor the winter, which has a 
sweetening influence on the soil, and enables the roots 
to remain in a strong healthy condition, ready for 
action when spring comes to start them again. 
Thinning Out. —Light being essential and of the 
greatest consequence to the plants standing below, it 
will be necessary to thin out or cut back all shoots of 
the climber that can be spared, without making the 
house look bare, but Roses should be left intact, as they 
flower on the young wood already made ; almost every 
bud on which will yield a flower, if the shoots are well- 
ripened. 
Bulbs. —Besides Lilies which were touched on 
recently, there are many bulbous plants that are easily 
managed, and of great value for greenhouse decoration, 
and it may be of use now to mention a few of the best. 
Lachenalias, are very showy, and the way to grow 
them is to pot about a dozen bulbs in 5-in. or 6-in. 
pots, the most suitable soil for them being a light rich 
loam, in which they should be just buried and then 
stood in a cold frame up near the glass, where if they 
are preserved from frost, they will come up strong and 
bloom freely in spring. 
Ixias, Gladioli, &c.—Ixias are charming and very 
beautiful in the rich shades and markings of their 
flowers ; the treatment requisite for the bulbs being 
precisely the same as that for Lachenalias till they 
begin to grow, when the last named require more 
water, and the same all through till they ripen. The 
small varieties of Gladioli, such as G. ramosus, and G. 
Colvilli, are invaluable for pot culture, and especially 
the one of the latter named the Bride, which is a pure 
white, and of great service for cutting and working up 
in bouquets. As the Gladiolus mentioned start early, 
they should be potted at once, the way they look best 
being about six in a 6-inch pot, and the proper place for 
them is a damp frame or pit, where they can come 
slowly on till forward enough to be .removed to the 
greenhouse. 
Spanish Iris. —Next in point of usefulness to the 
Gladiolus just mentioned are the Spanish Iris, which in 
form of flower and lovely rich shades of markings, 
almost rival some of the best kinds of Orchids, and as 
they can be had for three or four shillings per hundred, 
everyone who has a garden should grow some, as they 
will do well either indoors or out. Being of a spare 
upright habit, the roots maybe potted three in a 4-inch 
pot, and if the soil is just moist at the time they are 
put in, no water will be required till the leaves show 7 . 
Hyacinths. — The Roman varieties of these will 
soon be sending up bloom, and to forward and get them 
to open as soon as possible, the plants should be placed 
where they can get a little warmth ; and the same with 
a few of those first potted of the large-flowered or Dutch, 
as by managing in this way a long succession of bloom 
may be had. In taking the plants out of the plunging 
material, care is necessary not to injure the tops, 
which from being covered and blanched are delicate and 
tender, and will only bear gradual exposure to light, 
but by having an inverted pot over each for a w^eek or 
so they will be safe. 
Lily of the Valley. —Imported crowns of this 
charming plant may now be had in quantity, and of a 
size and strength that they are sure to throw plenty of 
flower, but to get the spikes to come freely out, the 
crowns require special treatment; the way to manage 
them being to pot the clumps slightly in rich soil, and 
after giving a good watering, they should be plunged 
and covered overhead with cocoa-nut fibre or half-rotten 
leaves, and there left—unless wanted for forcing—till the 
turn of the year. Spiriea japonica, Dielytra spectabilis, 
and Solomon’s Seal require just the same management, 
and all three are cheap and good for greenhouse decora¬ 
tion, or to bring on for the adornment of windows, and 
only need the protection of a pit or frame to get them 
in bloom. - 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Transplanting Deciduous Trees and Shrubs.— 
It is late now to be moving evergreens, but it is the 
very best time for transplating deciduous trees and 
shrubs, which always do best if lifted directly the 
leaves fall, as then they get fresh hold of the ground 
before winter sets in. In taking them up, every care 
should be used to secure all the roots, and to work 
them out of the ground without breaking or bruising 
them, and if this is done, the plants will start again 
without feeling much check. 
Roses. —There is always a great run on these at the 
nurseries at this season, and those who give their orders 
and obtain their plants first, generally get best served ; 
which, being so, those who intend getting any to plant 
should lose no time, as by having them early there is 
another advantage gained in the Roses becoming 
established before bad weather begins. 
Preparing the Beds. —To be in readiness when 
the plants arrive, the ground or beds where they are to 
be placed should be prepared by being dug deeply, or 
trenched, and, while this is being done, some rotten 
manure worked in and kept well down where the roots 
will find it when most needed, at the time the plants 
are sending up bloom. As soon as the planting is 
complete, the next thing is to mulch, the most suitable 
material for this purpose being half-decayed manure 
from the stable-yard, which lies light, and is good foi 
keeping out frost. 
Briars.— The country has been so ransacked for 
these that they are becoming scarce, but those who 
live where they can be obtained should get in a stock 
and plant ready for budding ; besides which, the ripe 
shoots off them may be put in as cuttings for dwarfs. 
The way to prepare them is to cut them into lengths 
of 9 ins. or so, with a bud top and bottom, and after 
they are trimmed they should be inserted deeply in 
rows, leaving only the points just out of the ground. 
Rosa Manetti. —This Rose makes a capital stock 
for dwarfs, and will succeed in very light soil, where 
the Briar would only do poorly and fail. Cuttings of 
the Manetti strike freely made in the same manner as 
those just noticed, and inserted in the same way ; but 
the soil about both must be made solid and firm. 
THE FRUIT GARDEN. 
Pears. —It is to be hoped that the Pear Congress, 
just over, and the many shows that have taken place 
this autumn, will do much to bring Pears more into 
cultivation, for as yet they are scarce and dear—that is, 
so far as the real good sorts are concerned ; but there is 
no reason why this should be, as they will grow r and 
succeed almost anywhere in aii open, sunny aspect, 
or on bare walls or fences, all of which may be 
turned to most profitable account by planting trees 
against them and training them over. We often 
see houses covered wdth Ivy or unkempt climbers of 
various kinds, that would look quite as well, and in 
many cases far better, clothed with Pears, a striking 
instance of which has recently presented itself to the 
notice of the writer of this, where a villa might be seen 
with over 800 fruits on its walls. 
Planting the Trees. —To give the trees a fair start, 
the ground should be broken up to a good depth, and 
if at all poor, have a heavy dressing of rotten manure 
worked in, and as soon as this is done all will be ready 
for planting. In carrying out this work, the chief 
thing to be particular about is the spreading out of 
the roots and keeping the plants at the same level as 
before, for if buried deep at the collar they seldom 
do well. The soil most suitable to the Pear is a deep 
light loam, especially for trees worked on the Pear stock, 
which is the best if they are wanted to grow large and 
to cover much space. For divarfs, pyramids, cordons, 
or other forms that are small, and the plants have to be 
restricted, the Quince must be used, and this throws 
the trees quickly in bearing. 
Training. —For Pears on houses, fences, or walls, 
the simplest modes of training are the horizontal and 
vertical, and the way to lay the foundation and start 
with the first-named is to run the main shoot upright, 
and after that to lead others aivay at about 9 ins. apart 
up each side. To begin wdth the vertical, two shoots 
are required within 1 ft. or so of the ground, one to be 
led straight along to the right and the other to the left, 
and from these others to be carried regularly at 9 ins. 
apart right up the wall. 
Useful Varieties. —The most useful to come in 
early is the Jargonelle, to be succeeded by Williams’s 
Bon Chretien, Louise Bonne, Beurre de Amanlis, 
Beurre Superfin, Fondante de Automne, Comte de 
Lamy, Marie Louise, Doyenne du Cornice, Glou 
Morceau, Winter Nelis, Josephine deMalines, Bergamot 
Esperen, and Beurre Ranee ; but the last four must 
have a favourable aspect to be good. All the others 
mentioned will succeed and ripen well in the open on 
pyramids, bushes, cordons, or espaliers, which in small 
gardens, without wall surface to spare, is the best way 
of growing them, as they may be planted and trained 
alongside of the walks, wiiere they take up little room 
and look well. 
