December 5, 1885. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
215 
sized trees aro more manageable. It is well to have 
fruit gardens separate from ordinary Vegetable gardens ; 
but necessity often places them so that the one becomes 
a part of the other. To keep trees lirm in growth and 
healthy, the system of planting on the surface of tho 
soil unbroken, fastening them to a stout stake and 
covering the roots with good soil and Well mulching 
them is the best system to follow. The choice of 
healthy trees to begin with is of great importance ; no 
one should accept badly cut ones at any price, especially 
if burdened with “ snags ” (pieces which have died back 
and become hard and dry), or suffering from canker. 
Maiden trees (those which have not been pruned or 
fruited) in healthy condition are better than large ones 
which have been trained and often had the knife un¬ 
skilfully used among them. The quantities and names 
of the kinds should be noted before any purchases are 
made, and then they may be brought from the nur¬ 
series and planted without delay, thus saving loss of 
substance by exposure of the roots. If they have been 
budded or grafted and raised on the premises, the work 
is simplified and quickly executed. 
Apples being so serviceable among all classes of the 
community, are grown more extensively than other 
fruits ; and by making a good selection of kinds which 
fruit every season, one can always have fair supplies of 
fruit. We have several lists before us which have been 
written by friends who have been wise enough to plant 
certain bearers instead of kinds which are good, but shy 
croppers. At Dunkeld may be found the following 
kinds:—Lord Suffield, Eeklinville Seedling, Nelson’s 
Glory, Keswick Coldin, Warner’s King, Cellini, Manx 
Codlin, Tower of Glamis, and Northern Greening 
for kitchen supply. To these, that useful and 
abundant cropper, Stirling Castle, should be added. 
For dessert: Worcester Pearmain, Oslin Summer Thorn, 
Emperor Alexander, Golden Pippin, Nonsuch, Lass of 
Gowrie, Winter Strawberry, Red Astrachan, Hawthorn- 
den, Nonpareil, King of Pippins, and others yield 
good crops. Each district has its favourite ; but a 
collection which does so well as the above in the centre 
of Perthshire, ought to do well anywhere else in the 
north. On walls, Apples are often done well, the colour 
coming out beautifully. Where little growth takes 
place on the trees, and the fruit is freely exposed to 
the sun and air, the quality is greatly improved. 
Ribston Pippin, Margil, and Blenheim Orange, grown 
on walla, are changed almost out of recognition, their 
excellence being so great, and appearance so good. 
Cordons kept close to a wall, with roots near the surface, 
give a variety of the best kinds, which the ordinary 
system cannot do, and by attention to “ root culture,” 
the buds will stud every part of the stem. When roots 
are matted together, manure-water, or other nutri¬ 
ment can be given with advantage, and without causing 
much wood-growth, which is objectionable.— M. T. 
Scottish Horticultural Association.— On Tues¬ 
day evening this association met in the Bible Society’s 
Rooms, Edinburgh, Mr. Alexander Milne presiding. 
Mr. Lindsay, Curator of the Royal Botanic Gardens, 
read a paper written by Mr. F. W. Burbidge, F. L. S., 
of the Trinity College Botanic Gardens, Dublin, on 
“Orchids, abroad and at home.” The paper stated 
that the growing conditions abroad were principally 
intense light and dewy moisture, especially at night. 
The nearer these conditions could be imitated at home 
the better would be the results. Orchids had of late 
years attained to such popularity at home, and the 
rarest and most beautiful had realised such high prices, 
that Mr. Burbidge was irresistibly reminded of the 
Tulipomania which raged in Holland a century or two 
ago. Cattleyas, Dendrobes, and Vandas of the rarest 
quality realised to-day from £100 to £250 or more 
each, and our merchant princes paid these prices with 
the same alacrity and zest which must have possessed 
the Dutch burghers when they paid 1,300 florins for a 
single bulb of Tulip. In conclusion, Mr. Burbidge 
pointed out that there was no royal road to Orchid 
culture, but only the long and certain one of observation 
and practical experience. A sketch showing the generic 
distribution of Orchids throughout the world was ex¬ 
hibited. A discussion followed the reading of the 
paper. Mr. Alexander M'Millan, Edgehill Dean, had 
on the table a plant of Chrysanthemum segetum, a 
British wild plant, brought for the purpose of shoving 
how well it could be flowered in a hothouse in winter. 
There was also exhibited a collection of Ferns gathered 
in Ireland by Mr. D. Redmond, Antrim. Votes of 
thanks to this gentleman, as well as to Mr. Bufbidge 
and the chairman, closed the meeting. 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
THE GREENHOUSE. 
Damp is now the greatest enemy to contend with in 
the greenhouse, and must be expelled if the flowers of 
Chrysanthemums and other plants are to be kept in 
condition, for if allowed to condense on their petals, they 
soon become shabby and fog off at a very quick rate. 
The way to keep a pure and agreeable atmosphere, is to 
have gentle fires so as to give just enough heat to 
warm the pipes and flues and set the air in motion, 
which is easily done if the ventilators or lights are 
slightly open, as they should be whenever the weather 
is mild. 
Camellias. —Amateurs and others are often puzzled 
with these at this season, as unless under skilful manage¬ 
ment they have a provoking habit of casting their buds, 
which may arise from either of two causes, the one giving 
them too much artificial warmth, and the other 
allowing them to become dry at the roots. This being 
so, it will at once be seen that it is useless attempting 
to force the plants, as they are very impatient of heat, 
and if by chance the flowers are brought on under its 
influence, they are sure to be small and poor, and fade 
or fall quickly after they are open. 
Watering Camellias. —To make certain whether 
the plants want water or not, the soil should be care¬ 
fully examined, and if dry should receive a good soaking 
by filling up the pots or tubs two or three times the 
same day, and if the roots are at all limited for root 
room, they will be much benefited after this by having 
frequent applications of liquid manure. 
Azaleas. —There are several varieties of these that 
are naturally early blooming, two of the best varieties 
for this purpose being the old Fielders’ White, and A. 
amoena, the last named a most floriferous kind that 
every one should grow, as well as the seedling from it, A. 
amoena Caldwellii, which is...larger but of much the 
same colour. Azalea mollis, of which there are 
numerous kinds, is also first-rate for greenhouse 
decoration, and seedlings of it set with buds may be 
had at a cheap rate, and if they are potted up and stood 
anywhere under glass, they will flower in March and 
make a fine display in the house. 
Rhododendrons are equally, or even more valuable, 
as the Nobleanmn section, Altaclerense, Caucasicum, 
and others of that class are remarkably brilliant and 
showy, and as the plants lift with good balls, they 
receive little or no check through removal. 
Deutzia gracilis. —This is a general favourite, and 
those who are so fortunate as to have plants of it, may 
forward them considerably and soon get them into bloom 
by standing them in amongst others on the stage, or 
anywhere in a little warmth, as they require but little, 
or no light till the buds begin to swell, neither do any 
other of the deciduous plants, that are generally used for 
greenhouse decoration in spring. 
THE FRUIT GARDEN. 
Transplanting Fruit Trees.— The most important 
matter in this department of the garden is the trans¬ 
planting, an operation that should be brought to a 
close as speedily as possible, for if deferred till later, not 
only may hard frosts set in and seal up the ground, but 
plants or trees moved after this do not stand anything 
like the chance of those lifted sooner in getting fresh 
root-hold and becoming established. 
Mulching. —What aids them much in making a 
start is a mulching, which keeps the soil about them in 
a uniform condition, and therefore each tree or bush 
should have a good layer placed round the stem, ex¬ 
tending from it 2 ft. or 3 ft., the most suitable material 
for the purpose being half-rotten strawy manure, which 
lies light and does not shut out the air. 
Staking and Tying. —With the planting and 
mulching complete, the next thing to think about is 
the staking and tying, as without proper support the 
plants wave to and fro, which motion strains the roots 
and produces great friction, by first pulling one way 
and thrusting the other, and it is impossible with such 
a movement constantly occurring that any fibres can 
form. In staking and tying care is needed to prevent 
chafing of the bark of the tree, and to prevent this, it 
is a good plan to have a piece of old carpet or a wisp of 
hay round the stems where the tie is made, and if well 
secured then the plants will stand against any wind. 
Strawberries.—T he system, of denuding Straw¬ 
berries df their leaves—as is too often done at this season 
of the year—and the digging among them, cannot ho 
too strongly condemned, as stripping them of their 
foliage exposes the hearts and crowns to the severity of 
the Weather, and though they may not suffer much in 
an ordinary winter, the tender young leaves are almost 
sure to get cut in the spring. This being so, the best 
way is to allow the tops to remain as they are, and do 
nothing to the ground between the rows beyond the 
necessary hoeing and cleaning. But after this is eff cted 
it will be a great help to the plants if they can have a 
good thick dressing of old soil mixed with half-rotten 
manure, into, and under which they will root and gain 
strength when they begin to grow and bear fruit. 
The Vinery. —Rods that have been run up this 
season ought now to be ripe, and the sooner they are cut 
back the better, as when this is done early they have 
plenty of time to heal, and there is then no danger of 
their bleeding and losing strength through the sap 
oozing out at the end. The distance at which they 
should be shortened depends on their size, but if they 
have done at all well, they may he left half the length 
of the rafter, as the more top they have the more roots 
will they make, and the quicker will the house be filled 
and a crop obtained from the Vines. 
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 
Mushrooms. —Although generally considered very 
difficult to cultivate, Mushrooms may be had with ease 
and certainty by anyone who has the necessary material 
and a suitable place to make up a bed, the best situation 
being a close shed or cellar, where (if the temperature 
ranges just above 50°) they are sure to do well. 
Forming the Bed. —For forming the bed there is 
nothing equal to horse-droppings or stable manure, as 
it does not matter in the least about a little short straw 
being in ; but the dung should be fresh and not exposed 
to much wet, and as soon as a few harrow-loads are 
collected, the way to prepare it is to lay it in a heap 
under cover, so as to bring it into fermentation, and as 
soon as it is a little warm it should be turned over to 
let out the rank steam and sweeten it a bit, when it 
may be put together again, and the process be repeated 
after the heat is renewed. This will get rid of the 
violent fermentation, and the next proceeding is to put 
the stuff together in the cellar or shed, where it should 
he spread out on the floor to a depth of 1 ft. or 18 ins., 
and beaten or trodden down firm, and directly it starts 
heating again it may be spawned. 
Spawning and Soiling the Bed. —The way to 
spawn the bed is to make holes in it about 9 ins. apart 
and put a piece of spawn the size of a small Potato in 
each, and when this is done the manure should be 
pressed down close, and the surface lightly covered 
with hay. This will keep the temperature regular, the 
proper heat being 80°, which will soon set the spawn at 
work and cause it to run through the whole of the bed. 
This it will do in about a month, when the soil should 
he put oil 1 in. thick and beaten down with the back of 
a spade, the thing being to make it firm and smooth on 
the top. To encourage the Mushrooms to come through, 
it is necessary to keep the bed covered with soft hay, 
which maintains an equable degree of warmth and 
moisture, and under such favouring influences the 
Mushrooms grow fast and come full of juice. 
Sea Kale and Rhubarb.--T hose who would have 
an early supply of these highly prized vegetables will 
find it is the best way to take up the roots and place 
them on a bed of fermenting material, or in a pit or 
frame, where they can have a little heat under to start 
them, and if there kept close and covered so as to 
exclude light, the produce will become beautifully 
blanched and be of a delicate flavour, do succeed the 
roots so forced, and give a long continuous supply, 
others in beds should be placed under large pots or tubs 
and have litter or leaves, or both mixed, put over the 
t°P- _ 
Fruit Culture in Oregon. —Vice-Consul Laidlaw 
states that much more attention is being paid to orchards 
in Oregon, as through the opening of new lines of rail¬ 
road a ready market has been found for green fruits in 
Montana, Dakota, Minnesota, and other states. The 
crop was a very heavy one, Apples, Peais, Chenies, 
Plums, Prunes, Currants, Raspberries, and Strawberries 
grow in great profusion and perfection, and the crop of 
all fruits was a very heavy one last year, and of superior 
quality. Peaches grow to great perfection in Eastern 
Oregon. 
