January 23, 1886. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
327 
A CRIMSON CALLA. 
Mr. Peter Henderson, of Hew Jersey, contributes to The 
American Florist, the story of a crimson Calla of which he 
became the fortunate possessor a few years ago. It seems 
that a lady called on a seed firm in New York and stated 
that she had a crimson Calla in bloom, and wanted to 
sell it to them for $100. “Mr. Elliott, the well-known 
plant auctioneer, suggested that she should let it be 
sold at one of his auction sales. This she agreed to do 
and down it came in full bloom, crimson sure enough. 
Mr. Elliott expended a wonderful deal of eloquence in 
trying to get someone to bid $100 lor it, but was obliged 
to take my first bid of 100 cents, which was gradually 
run up to 1000 cents, and I became the possessor of the 
crimson Calla. I then secured all the remaining stock 
from the lady consisting of about a dozen small plants, 
and grew it until I obtained over 100 plants, but in 
some way by running it against the grain I lost the 
whole stock of it. I do not know to day if there is a. 
plant of the crimson Calla in the country, although if 
it could be grown easily it would be a most interesting 
plant. It is of a rich crimson-maroon, nearly as large 
as the flower of the' dwarf Calla, and unlike most other 
plants of the Arum class it has a rich fragrance, some¬ 
what similar to the Violet. ” 
-- 
TUBEROUS BEGONIAS PROM 
SEED. 
All who desire to obtain good strong vigorous plants 
of these incfeasingly popular plants for flowering this 
season, should lose no time in obtaining the needful 
supply of seeds and sow at once. Far preferable is it 
to make an early sowing in moderate bottom heat, say 
from 55° to 60°, in the month of January, and allow 
the young plants to come on steadily and strong, than 
to leave it a month or six weeks later, when, from an 
extra amount of bottom or top heat, as the case may 
be, needful to promote a quick growth, so that the 
plants may be of the required size. It not unfrequently 
happens that they become drawn and weak, a point 
which should always be avoided. Let it be borne in 
mind by all who have little experience with the 
Tuberous Begonia, either in raising it from seed or 
growing it from tubers two or three years old, that 
they are essentially greenhouse subjects, and should 
not at any time in their cultivation be subjected to a 
temperature much exceeding that at which greenhouses 
are usually kept, which, on the average, should range 
from 45° to 50° at this time of year ; but which, as the 
season advances and warm weather ensues, the tem¬ 
perature of the house will be proportionately increased. 
For the present we will confine our remarks to the 
seed and seedlings, which, with a little care and atten¬ 
tion, are easily managed and grown to perfection ; one 
of the most important points in connection with sow¬ 
ing the seed is that of having the soil of a proper state, 
by which I mean that it should neither be inclined to 
be adhesive, in ■which state, when it is placed into a 
warm house, it is sure to contract and shrink from the 
side of the pot, and you thereby lose valuable seed ; 
nor, on the other hand, should it be so dry that water 
will float on its surface rather than penetrate it, so that 
to have it in good condition the soil should be under 
cover away from snow and rain. To insure its being 
in a fit state it will be well to mix it on the potting 
bench some three or four days previous to its being re¬ 
quired for use ; it should consist of equal parts of half- 
decomposed leaf-soil and light sandy loam, making the 
whole very sandy, sharp silver sand is the best to keep 
the soil well open, though it is not likely to become 
watertight if composed in the way described. Mix the 
whole together and pass through a half-inch sieve, and 
allow it to remain for two or three days on the potting 
bench. The draining of the pots is also a matter for 
consideration, each pot should be thoroughly well 
drained, with some rough fibrous material placed upon 
them to keep the drainage clear and open, then fill in 
with soil to within half an inch of the rim of the pot, 
using a little finer sifted soil on the surface, press all 
moderately firm to make the surface even ; finally, 
sprinkle a little silver sand over the pots and all will 
be ready for the seed. 
To prevent overcrowding and consequent damping of 
the young plants, the seed should be sown thinly, and 
as the seeds are particularly minute, the white sand on 
the surface will prove beyond doubt where the seeds 
are falling. When the whole of the seed is thus dis¬ 
posed of, plunge the pots three-fourths their depth in 
a bottom heat of 55° or 60°, and if a frame or hand- 
light be at hand, this may be placed over them, and if 
darkened with a sheet of newspaper they will need no 
water during the first few days. Let the reader note 
that 1 have said nothing about covering the seed with 
soil, this I always rigidly avoid in the earliest batch, 
for experience has shown that many batches of choice 
seeds—not Begonias alone—have been lost through 
covering too deeply. Leave the seeds uncovered then, 
for with the frame being close and darkened, and the 
atmosphere naturally heavy and damp at this season, 
they will be benefitted rather than otherwise. 
By the end of the first week water maybe given, but 
as this cannot be ruled by the pen, it must of necessity 
rest to a great extent with the operator, who will do 
well, also, to base his action upon the circumstances 
surrounding his own special case. A very fine rose 
watering-can should be used, and in giving water care 
should be exercised that it does not overflow the sides 
of the seed-pots, and thereby endanger the seeds. If 
all be well, the seeds -will germinate in from fourteen 
to twenty-one days, and by the end of the month it 
will readily be seen. This is, perhaps, the most trying 
time of all, for with the slightest excess of moisture 
numbers of the seedlings will disappear, even in one 
night, and for this reason is it that I strongly urge 
thin sowings, incessant care with the watering-pot, 
and, lastly, never to place the lights on till the frame 
is comparatively free of moisture. The soil being in 
the right condition at the start, and the pots plunged 
in a comparatively gentle heat, together with being 
kept close and shaded, will all assist in keeping the 
water-pot at bay ; and after they have reached their 
second leaf, and are receiving more light and air, a 
great percentage of that danger is passed, which was 
so dreaded while yet they were chickens.— J. 
-- 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
THE GREENHOUSE. 
The weather has greatly changed during the past 
week, and is now much more favourable to the occu¬ 
pants of this house, as it can be ventilated more freely 
at mid-day, and it will not be necessary to keep the 
fires quite so large, except when the wind is very cold 
or there is likelihood of severe frost at night. The 
less artificial heat employed the better, provided the 
necessary temperature can be secured. Some early 
Cinerarias will probably be flowering, and it should be 
remembered that such plants as these and Cyclamens 
thrive best in a cool moist position ; and when there is 
an open lattice stage over the pipes, as is too frequently 
the case, these plants suffer considerably, and this alone 
often causes a failure which appears unaccountable to 
the inexperienced. 
There are few plants—except succulents like Rochea, 
Crassulas, and Epiphyllums—that endure this exposure 
to dry air without injury, and it is far better to have 
the stages covered with a layer of moisture-holding 
material, such as fine pebbles or broken shells, upon 
which the pots can be arranged. It causes little trouble 
or expense, and the result will be very satisfactory in 
every way. Some judgment is needed in placing 
forced plants in the greenhouse, and it is better to 
select the warmest portion for them, keeping all hardier 
plants and those requiring more ventilation at the 
coolest end of the house. This can be easily managed 
without detracting from the appearance of the groups. 
Heaths may be taken as examples of the cool plants, 
and bulbs that have been brought on in a forcing-pit 
should be assigned the warmest position. 
In some amateurs’ greenhouses a Vine is grown, or 
perhaps two, Black Hamburgh being the chief favourite, 
and Buckland Sweetwater, as a white Grape, is suitable, 
but the former will be found the most satisfactory. If 
the Vines have not been pruned this should be attended 
to at once, as though they may not be showing signs 
of starting, it is dangerous to delay the operation, as a 
serious loss of sap often occurs through “ the bleeding, ” 
as it is termed, from the cut shoots. Cut away all un¬ 
ripened wood, shortening the side branches to hard 
wood and where it is seen that a good bud is formed. 
Upon what is known as the spur system, “laterals” 
are cut in close to the main stem or rod, and the young 
shoots produced from the buds at the base of each 
lateral will bear the season’s fruit. 
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 
The seed orders should be at once made up and sent 
in, for as the ground gets drier advantage can be taken 
of all fine weather to sow seeds for early crops. Every¬ 
one who has had a little experience in vegetable growing 
has a preference for particular varieties, and some 
succeed much better in certain districts than in others, 
which is especially the case with Peas and Potatos. 
Some varieties of these are excellent in one garden, and 
in another a short distance away with slightly different 
soil and aspect they may prove very unsatisfactory ; it 
is the same with fruit trees, indeed nearly everything 
grown in gardens is subject to these peculiarities. 
In the following list, however, we have named only 
those that are the most reliable with us on a medium 
soil with good natural drainage. To them as many 
can be added as the cultivator wishes, and as we 
remarked last week, where there is sufficient space at 
command, by all means include a few novelties for trial; 
most of the leading seedsmen’s catalogues enumerate 
plenty of these to select from. 
Broad Beans, Early Seville, Broad 'Windsor ; French 
Beans, Canadian Wonder ; Scarlet Runners, any seeds¬ 
men’s selection; Beet, Dell’s Crimson; Borecole, 
Cottagers Kale, Buda Kale ; Broccoli, Cooling’s 
Matchless, Snow’s Winter White, Veitch’s Self Pro¬ 
tecting ; Brussels Sprouts, any seedmen’s best imported; 
Cabbage, Early York, Cocoa Nut, Enfield Market; 
Carrots, Early; French Horn, James’ Intermediate ; 
Cauliflowers, Early Erfurt, Veitch’s Autumn Giant, 
Walcheren ; Celery, Incomparable White, Leicester 
Red ; Endive, Curled Picpus, Round-leaved Batavian ; 
Lettuce, White Paris Cos, Hick’s Hardy Green Cos, 
Neapolitan Cabbage ; Marrow (Vegetable), Moore’s 
Vegetable Cream ; Onions, Early White Naples, White 
Spanish, Silverskin (for pickling) ; Parsley, any seed- 
men’s best curled ; Parsnip, Hollow-crowned ; Peas, 
first crop, Williams’, second crop, Culverwell’s Telegraph, 
main crop, Champion of England and Ne Plus Ultra ; 
Potatos, Myatt’s, Veitch’s Ashleaf, Magnum Bonum, 
and Schoolmaster ; Radishes, Wood’s Frame, French 
Breakfast, Scarlet Turnip ; Savoys, Dwarf Ulm; 
Spinach, Round; Tomatos, Hathaway’s Excelsior, 
Vick’s Criterion; Turnips, Early Strap-leaf, White 
Stone and Chirk Castle. As nearly as possible these 
are named in their respective order of succession, and 
if suitable quantities of seed be sown, there should be 
no difficulty in keeping a supply of vegetables through¬ 
out the year.— Scolytus. 
-- 
GARDENING AND GARDENERS. 
I was glad to see your correspondent “X.,” in 
writing of the different degrees of gardeners, recognised 
and appreciated the worth of those he geologically 
described as the “third stratum.” . In reading over 
his letter I was reminded of a young man I came in 
contact with some years ago when waiting for a fore¬ 
man’s place at one of the leading London nurseries. 
This young man used to boast of the number of earl’s 
places he had served in as journeyman, and of how 
many men there were employed under glass at such 
establishments. It is not unusual amongstjyoung men 
waiting for situations in a nursery to ask the following 
questions of each other: — “ Where have you been 
living?” “Is it a good place?” “How many men 
are there in the bothy ? ” “How many in the houses ? ” 
My answer to the latter question was, only one other 
besides myself! Well, this young man said nothing 
in reply at the time (he did not even ask whether we 
grew Potatos or Grapes, Violets or Orchids), but waited 
until the late hours of the night, when he gave his 
views of me and similar young men to his bed-fellow. 
He considered that all of my stamp who were seeking 
foreman’s situations ought to ousted from the profession, 
as we were simply hindering better men (?) from ob¬ 
taining the situations which they deserved. I naturally 
felt hurt at these remarks, at the same time I knew 
that there were not vacancies for so many first-class 
foremen, even if there were men to fill them. 
I had previously served as journeyman in four 
establishments, including one of a nobleman where 
there were a great number of men employed; and I 
know that I should undertake no situation (even if I 
were offered one) beyond my abilities. Now I wonder 
whether this young man has lived to respect and 
ceased to despise the second and third “stratum” of 
gardeners. Perhaps, ere this, he, like myself, may have 
experienced the fact of a duke’s gardener being placed 
behind his rival with smaller means with a collection 
of fruit at some horticultural exhibition. Again, with 
