February IS, 1886. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
375 
should be. Not only do the individual flowers last a 
long time, but they arc produced in succession, so that 
plants continue useful for some weeks, a period which 
can be still further prolonged by having some in 
different stages of development to come into flower as 
the others cease. 
But to return to the culture ; the cuttings mentioned 
were placed in a 60-size pot of leaf-soil and sand, and 
plunged in a propagating frame where there was a 
little bottom-heat. In two or three weeks they were 
ready for potting, and were then placed singly in the 
same size as that used for the cuttings, this time using 
a soil composed of loam and leaf-soil in equal parts. 
As all the cuttings rooted, I had half-a-dozen plants, 
and arranged upon a shelf in the stove, these grew so 
quickly that they soon wanted re-potting. Large pots 
are not liked in our establishment, and though my 
friend had his plants in 32-pots I determined to confine 
ours to 48’s, and therefore gave them a better and more 
lasting soil, consisting of light turfy loam, a small 
quantity of leaf-soil, and about the same of old but not 
poor manure, draining the pots thoroughly. In this 
the plants made excellent progress, flowering well the 
first year, and I have another good batch this season. 
When growing freely in the largest pots we supply 
water liberally, weak liquid manure being also beneficial 
when they are getting full of roots. A light position 
is also important, and sufficient ventilation to prevent 
the plants being drawn up weakly, and when any 
tendency is noticed for the shoots to lengthen-out 
unduly pinch them into shape. Then there will be no 
difficulty in having neat little specimens that will be 
greatly appreciated in the stove where flowering plants 
are always too scarce.— Foreman. 
-- 
Scottish Gardening. 
The Forcing’ of Vines. — I have observed 
that some (growers in northern parts begin to force 
their late Vines very slowly and much earlier than 
they once did, and I think there is much wisdom in 
such a change. It is a long time since I advocated this 
practice of beginning in good time, gaining a good long 
season to mature, the fruit, allowing the wood growth 
not to exceed root action by hard forcing as is too often 
the case when late keepers as well as early Grapes are 
pushed on by strong heat minus root action, giving 
way to general debility and its consequent evils. Such 
Grapes as Gros Colmar, Barbarossa, and some others 
take from eight to nine months to finish their ripening 
period. 
One must make a general calculation of a week or so 
later to every hundred miles of latitude. As an 
example Vineries started in the neighbourhood of 
London at the first of March would in ordinary seasons 
ripen fruit about the same time as those started during 
the second week of February. I am strengthened 
in my faith as to the advantages of a brisk temperature 
for ripening of Grapes, accompanied with a free cir¬ 
culation of air just in the manner that we like to 
see our orchards ripening their produce during August 
and September by a bracing air and a warm sunshine. 
Such Grapes as the two kinds named are very superior 
when subjected to Muscat treatment as compared with 
the same kinds grown under the cool regimen ; ours at 
the present time hanging in the Grape cupboards are 
really rich and pleasant in flavour, as fresh as ever 
they were, and look as if they would hang for months 
without shrivelling materially. Lady Downe’s ripened 
at the end of August, are fresher and superior looking 
to those ripened at the beginning of October. I 
noticed at Clovenfords the fine examples of late Grapes; 
they are ripened under a high temperature, and I 
have not the least doubt but this practice is in a great 
measure the reason why they are so much sought after. 
—M. T. 
Scottish Horticultural Association.— 
January 2nd .—At the meeting of this Association, 
held on the above date, Mr. Milne presiding, a paper 
on “The Ivy” was read by Mr. John Methven (of 
Messrs. Methven and Son), Vice-President. At the 
outset he gave a historical and poetical account of the 
Ivy, in which he stated that in the earliest days of 
civilisation it acquired renown by its association with 
religious rites and social usages. Mr. Methven pro¬ 
ceeded to give descriptions of the various kinds of Ivy 
and their cultivation, and in this connection exhibited 
specimens of thirty-three different varieties. He next 
spoke of its usefulness as a town garden plant, referring 
specially to the bank of Ivy in West Princes’ Street 
Gardens, Edinburgh. No other plant, he asserted, 
could be grown so effectively on that bank as the Ivy, 
and Mr. M’Leod deserved credit for having adopted it 
for that purpose. He also pointed out the suitability 
of the plant for window culture. A discussion followed, 
after which Mr. Methven was awarded a vote of thanks 
for his paper. The following interesting collection of 
early spring flowers from Easter Duddington Lodge, 
was exhibited :—Garrya elliptica, Helleborus niger, 
H. niger angustifolius, Hepatica triloba, H. triloba 
alba, H. triloba rubra, H. angulosa, Galanthus plicatus, 
Eranthis hyemalis, and Erica herbacea alba. A new 
Leek—a hybrid between the Musselburgh and Henry 
Prize varieties—sent by Mr. Howie, of Inch House, 
Liberton, was also shown. 
-- 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
THE GREENHOUSE. 
It is usual to strike a few cuttings of Pelargoniums 
and other plants in the autumn to be kept together in 
their pots during winter, and then to be repotted 
separately for flowering in spring and summer. This 
repotting may now be commenced, and although it 
might appear an operation of little consequence, more 
of the after success depends upon the manner in which 
it is performed than might be supposed by the in¬ 
experienced. The great point to be remembered in 
the culture of plants, and especially of those termed 
“ soft-wooded ” which include a large number of green¬ 
house flowering plants, is that they should never in 
any stage receive a check to their growth, and it is 
almost impossible to convert a plant that has been 
stunted into a satisfactory specimen. They must be 
grown freely from the time the cutting is rooted and 
commences life on its own account until it flowers, 
and then the cultivator has it within his power to a 
great extent to render the plant what he wishes it to 
be. Similar remarks apply equally to non-flowering 
plants, i.e., those grown for their foliage alone, for 
the result of neglect in the early stages of these is that 
the leaves on the lower parts of the stem fall, and the 
beauty of the specimen is permanently and irremediably 
lessened. 
A prolific source of the failures indicated is in the 
first potting of the cuttings, for it is too often thought, 
apparently, that they may be separated without any 
care in disentangling the roots ; many of the young 
rootlets are torn off and others are injured, so that as 
much injury is done to the young plants as could 
possibly be the case. It is not surprising, under these 
circumstances, that a severe check is given to them, 
and from which they recover very slowly. Whenever 
cuttings are turned out of their store pots, deal with 
the roots as gently as possible, separating them care¬ 
fully and retaining the soil attached to them. The 
soil also at the time of turning them out should be 
moist without being soddened, and must not on any 
account be dry ; the same remarks applying to the 
soil in which they are to be potted. Then when 
placing them in their fresh pots distribute the roots 
evenly and press the soil around them rather firmly. 
These might appear trivial details, and to professional 
gardeners they would be unnecessary, but they are 
exactly the points that amateurs who have to gain 
their experience overlook, and their neglect has to be 
paid for rather dearly in the after results. 
For all soft wooded plants a free open and light 
compost must be employed, as the roots should be in a 
medium that they can readily penetrate, for both root 
and stem growth must be reciprocal, encourage the 
production and extension of the root, and growth will 
soon follow. At the first potting about equal parts of 
light loam and leaf-soil form a good compost, adding a 
little Sand according to the nature of the loam. This 
is suitable for all the ordinary plants which come under 
the general designation given above, at least for the 
first potting, as it is not advisable to use manure in the 
early stages for it often leads to an excessively luxuriant 
and consequently feeble growth, causing plants to “run 
up” as it is termed, and it is almost impossible to 
render such “drawn ” examples compact and handsome 
specimens by any subsequent treatment. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
The principal work besides the digging and alteration 
of borders previously noted, will be the general clearing 
up of the garden, sweeping walks and lawns, and rolling 
the latter when the frost has departed. Much depends 
upon the attention lawns receive during winter, for if 
they are not rolled in suitable weather and kept free 
from worm casts, it cannot be expected to have an even 
sward in spring and summer, but the roller must never 
be placed upon a lawn in wet weather or when the 
ground is frozen. Paths become much loosened by the 
frost, and as soon as they are dry enough they should be 
well rolled unless it is intended to wholly or partially 
renew them. Either of the latter operations can be 
performed now, provided the weather be moderately dry, 
and if a path is uneven, badly drained, or discoloured, 
it will be well to attend to it before spring. 
Sometimes the gravel can be turned, thus avoiding 
the expense of purchasing fresh, and a very substantial 
bright looking surface can be formed if a small quantity 
of fresh be mixed with the old after turning. It should 
be carefully raised with a pick, making little furrows 
the depth of the gravel lengthways and crossways of the 
walk, and when the whole of the surface is thus 
disturbed, rake it over thoroughly, levelling it but let 
the walk be highest in the centre to provide for the 
ready escape of water. When a path is properly made, 
suitable gravel being employed and rolled firm, heavy 
rains should cause but temporary inconvenience — 
Scolytus. 
-—- 
PARSLEY AND ONIONS. 
I FEAR I shall be treading on dangerous ground in 
criticising the remarks on this subject from the pen 
of your able correspondent, Mr., Ward, of Longford 
Castle, at p. 358. But I hope Mr. Ward will take 
my observations in a kindly spirit, as I think criticism 
when so conducted, does a deal of good in all matters 
horticultural, as it brings forth different opinions, very 
often to the great benefit of gardeners and amateurs 
alike. Mr. Ward commenting on Mr. Atkinson’s paper 
which was read at the Manchester Horticultural Im¬ 
provement Society, says, that “if a good surface 
dressing of fresh soot is laid on the ground prior to 
sowing the seed, &c., there will be no cause to complain 
of crops thus treated suffering from the attacks of 
maggot or any other insect at the roots.” Now for the 
last five years I have had in two different gardens to 
fight with that dreadful pest the the Onion maggot, 
and I have several times heavily dressed the ground 
with soot, both prior to sowing the seed and after the 
Onions were up several inches, and practically speaking 
I have always found it to fail. 
Last sowing time in particular, I gave the soot 
remedy a thorough trial, thinking that on previous 
occasions I had not done so. My mode of procedure 
was as follows :—I gave the ground —which had been 
previously dressed with closet manure and forked in— 
a good dressing of dry soot, then raked and made beds 
4 ft. wide, raked again quite smooth, sowed the seed, 
and covered it three quarters of an inch deep with 
nothing but soot and wood ashes that had been passed 
through an ^-in. sieve ; the Onions came up all right 
and looked well, their tops possessed that dark green 
colour which is always a sure sign of rude health, but 
eventually they were attacked with the maggot as bad 
as I had ever seen any. So that I feel convinced that 
if the pest is present, soot will not stop or prevent its 
ravages to any perceptible extent. 
The most effectual remedy which I have tried is lime 
scattered on in a dry powdered state, half an inch deep 
and watered well in with a heavy rose water-pot imme¬ 
diately afterwards ; of course, a dull day must be 
chosen for the operation. I do think this checks the 
maggot, but does not banish it altogether. I am not 
an entomologist, but from my own observations I feel 
sure that the maggot is not in the ground but is the 
larvas of a fly which lays its eggs on the onion tops 
early in the summer ; these eggs, by some means or 
other, probably by the rain and wind, find their way 
down to the bottom of the Onion, and there rapidly 
develop and commence their work of destruction by 
eating their way up the heart or centre of the Onion, 
thereby causing it to die and decay. It is an old saying, 
that “prevention is better than cure,” and I have found 
souring the Onions as far away as possible from the spot 
where they were grown the previous year to be the best 
preventive. One instance in particular. I sowed my 
