February 20, 1886. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
391 
as they are very small they cannot be handled, so the 
best plan is to get a lucifer match, smooth it down flat 
at one end, then carefully cut a slot in it, making it 
into a miniature two-pronged fork, slip this under 
the small leaf, loosen the soil under the seedlings with 
a thin stick, then lift your fork, and you have the 
small plant uninjured, ready to be placed in its fresh 
quarters. This may seem a tedious process, but 
practice makes perfect, and one is astonished how 
quickly it is done ; the little plants amply repay for 
the trouble, for when removed from the seed pan they 
grow much more quickly. They should be pricked off 
about 1 in. apart, and when they have grown sufficiently 
to touch each other, they should be potted into small 
pots and grown on as before directed. —Henry J. Jones, 
Lewisham. -- 
Scottish Gardening. 
_ . ♦ - _ 
A 
Garden Work. —It would be premature to urge 
cultivators to go on with seed sowing, planting, and 
other work, which is,almost impracticable (except under 
glass protection) in most northern localities. Though I 
have a few Leeks, Onions, Celery, Carrots, Radishes, 
Potatos, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, and 
some other things moving forward in frames and pits, 
it is out of my power to attempt anything outside, the 
ground is so soddened. The snow (which was very 
light) is gone, but a decided thaw (9th February) has 
not arrived. One can prepare soils for covering seeds 
(should such be necessary), make stakes for peas and 
other plants, turn and prepare manure heaps for use 
(rotted manure being most suitable for many things), 
burn rubbish, clear off the quantities of leaves from all 
the brassicas (many from the severity of frost are now 
becoming offensive) ; turn gravel on walks and make 
the paths smooth and trinl in appearance, besides a host 
of work in the ornamental grounds, &e., so that there 
is no lack of work. 
But the preparation of ground for seeds and plants is 
what one feels to be most pressing. It is scarcely 
necessary to caution even young beginners not to 
make “ more haste ” than good speed in this matter by 
working the soil to its decided injury when it would be 
far better left alone. We often hear from “go-ahead” 
neighbours that their latest sown crops, when the 
ground was dry aud friable, did far the best, and many 
of which were earlier than those sown first. This is a 
matter of certainty. When seeds have been cast into 
wet soil, something like a puddle, they either fail 
altogether or come stunted, and they are liable to 
premature seeding. 
On dry sandy borders, with good exposure, a decided 
advantage is gained from early seed-sowing, and with a 
stock of old soil on hand, from pot-plants or otherwise, 
many difficulties are removed. It is of primary im¬ 
portance not to lose a good chance, especially in cold 
northern districts, as soon as the soil can be prepared 
for seed, and the kinds of seed we have enumerated 
above may be sown. Onions and Parsnips claim 
attention at the end of February and may be sown, but 
a week or so later makes little difference if wet unsuit¬ 
able weather should prevail. Parsley may be sown for 
the main crop, or where a sowing was made during 
August, and the plants in condition, a plantation may 
be made. Spinach may be sown among fruit bushes, 
Raspberries, or between Peas and Beans ; ground may 
thus be economised for crops of more importance. 
A full sowing of early Peas may be made, also 
Mazagan Beans ; early lots should be sown more thickly 
than the later sowings, the former being liable to suffer 
from severe weather, vermin, &c. Peas through the 
ground may have thin coatings of fine ashes, leaf-mould, 
or old Mushroom-beds, well broken, sprinkled over the 
plants. Dustings of soot and a little lime, to keep 
slugs in check, will also be serviceable. We have for a 
number of years had more than one plot allotted to 
main crops of some kinds of crops, especially Onions, 
Celery, Brussels Sprouts, and Carrots, and we never 
had more reason to be thankful that we were thus 
double-handed than during the past season. Three 
lots of Savoys and the same of Brussels Sprouts have 
stood us in good stead. The earlier plantations, which 
were fine in every way and did truly well, are now much 
cut down by the late frost, while the dwarfer and less 
bulky lots are comparatively sound and useful. It is 
premature to speculate on the Broccoli crops, which 
may be unscathed ; we fear, however, a large death-rate 
in some parts this season. 
All fruit tree work should be brought to a close 
without delay, nailing, tying to trellises, mulching, 
protecting, &c. Where planting has to be done, care 
must be exercised not to cram soil round the roots, 
treading it when wet, and perhaps putting the roots 
deeply in the soil ; what has been already advised on 
these points must be enforced if success is expected ; 
positions for planting, of course, changes matters 
materially. If Gooseberries have been left to escape 
(in a measure) the ravages of Bullfinches, thinning 
may still be left undone. These bushes are not easily 
hurt by late pruning ; dustings of lime may keep off 
birds, but it requires repeating. Where grubs are 
troublesome, the surface soil around the collars of the 
plants may be removed, and a good coating of old tan 
put in its place. A good mulching of cow manure 
helps Gooseberries very much. Peaches, Nectarines, 
and Apricots, which are protected from late frosts, may 
have nets, doubled, stretched over them—Scrim, 
Hexagon netting, and even Spruce branches are used 
with good effect. Pears often suffer from late frosts 
when they are early in flower—on western aspects we 
have seen heavy crops year after year without fail. 
Referring to Peaches, we can endorse very strongly 
what Mr. Horsefield recommends, his paper^being very 
opportune, both for north and south of the border ; in 
the north, however, peach growing, on walls, barely 
pays itself—even with moderate success, but keeping 
the roots well up with well ripened wood, one can do 
much. An example of Peach growing, which I saw at 
Dunkeld last autumn, endorses this.— M. T. 
-- 
OLIVIAS OR IMANTOPHYLLUMS. 
This section of the natural order Amaryllidacese is, 
I fear, much neglected in many of our plant-growing 
establishments, or at least is not awarded so great a 
share of attention as their merits deserve. It is a 
valuable acquisition for an amateur’s little greenhouse, 
or to the gardener who has forcing-houses available ; 
and will be found a great service for the embellishment 
of our conservatories, or for room decoration at this 
dull season of the year. Few, if any, of our greenhouse 
plants are more easily retarded, or, with the assistance 
of a little heat, more easily brought forward into flower 
to suit the convenience of the cultivator, and that 
without the slightest injury to the health of the plants. 
Where only a few are cultivated, some may be had in 
bloom almost at any period of the year ; but it is at 
the present dull time that we find them most valuable. 
We have a good batch in flower, with from sixty to 
seventy spikes, averaging from twenty to thirty of 
their trumpet-shaped blooms to each spike, and which 
render valuable assistance in keeping our large conser¬ 
vatory gay ; and associated as they are with our earliest 
batch of Arum Lilies, have a very pleasing effect, and 
form a good background for Hyacinths, Tulips, Lily of 
the Valley, Spiraeas, etc. 
Our method of culture consists of disturbing the 
roots as little as possible ; but to increase the stock of 
any particular variety, division must be resorted to, as 
the best means of so doing ; but when once established 
in 8-in. or 10-in. pots, they can, with occasional top- 
dressings and liberal though judicious feeding in their 
growing season, be kept in a healthy state for some 
years. Our best plants are in 9-in. pots, with five 
spikes of bloom to each. The best time for repotting 
is immediately after their flowering season, and the 
compost we find to suit them well, is composed of 
equal parts of good fibrous peat and loam, used in a 
rough state, with liberal additions of charcoal and 
sand, with good drainage. Like all other fleshy rooted 
subjects, they must not be potted too firmly, and care 
must be taken to thoroughly incorporate the fresh soil 
between the large roots. After potting, they should 
be given an intermediate temperature, with plenty of 
atmospheric moisture, for a few weeks, after which 
they can gradually be inured to a more airy structure 
—a late vinery or Peach house answering the purpose 
very well, as both shade and moisture during the mid¬ 
summer months are beneficial. By the middle of 
September, they should be fully exposed to the sun’s 
rays in a cool greenhouse, to thoroughly ripen and 
solidify their growth, from which structure they can 
be placed into heat, to throw up their flower spikes 
as requirements may deem necessary.—/. F., Dorset. 
[With our correspondent’s letter came some blooms of 
several good seedling varieties of I. miniatum, includ¬ 
ing one of good shape and substance, raised from seeds 
received from South Africa.—E d.] 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Wherever the garden is sufficiently large, it is usual 
to have either certain quarters devoted to fruit trees, 
or to plant these along the margins next to the walks, 
the object being to utilise as much space as possible, 
and obtain valuable crops of both fruit and vegetables. 
When enclosed by walls, kitchen gardens are commonly 
rectangular in form, either square or oblong, and this 
is advantageous in many ways, as a variety of aspects 
is secured for trees to be trained to the walls, and for 
crops to be taken from the borders at their base. 
Allowing a border next to the wall and then a path, 
the central portion of the garden may be divided by 
paths, at right angles, intersecting in the centre, thus 
giving abundant opportunities for planting trees with¬ 
out interfering with the vegetable crops. 
If there are no walls, it will, of course, lessen the 
value of the garden to some extent, but still there will 
be plenty of space for fruits of various kinds. Much 
depends upon the form of tree selected, and by the 
exercise of judgment in this respect, the productiveness 
of a garden may be considerably increased. In small 
establishments it is frequently desired to grow a 
moderate collection of varieties, and in regard to Apples 
and Pears, nothing could be better for walls than cor¬ 
dons, and for the margins of the walks than espaliers. 
They have a neat appearance, occupy but little space, 
and are very productive if good varieties are chosen and 
the soil is suitable; they also permit a much larger 
collection of varieties to be grown in a small space 
than could otherwise be the case. 
Fan-shaped trees against walls look well, hut they 
require much time and trouble in training, and if not 
thoroughly well done they are extremely unsatisfactory. 
If Peaches are grown, however, it is perhaps best suited 
for them, though both these, with Cherries and Plums, 
can be grown on the cordon system. In the main 
quarters, a few pyramid and standard Apples and Pears 
will yield some substantial crops, and if Cherries suc¬ 
ceed, a few standard trees will yield some valuable 
fruit if they can be adequately protected from the birds. 
Plums of the Victoria type, which yield their fruit by 
bushels, are indispensible, and a little space devoted to 
them will not be regretted. If the garden is very 
limited, and there are no walls at command, it will be 
easy to grow cordons of any kind if a kind of strong 
trellis of stout wire, with a few iron supports, is erected 
to tie the tree to. Such a trellis could be quickly 
and easily constructed, or it could be purchased at a 
moderate cost, ready for the trees, only requiring to be 
fixed in its place. 
As to the selection of varieties, it is best to ascertain 
from neighbouring gardeners or amateurs what succeed 
best in the district, for there is a surprising difference 
in the value of a variety according to the soil and 
situation in which it is planted. It is strange, too, 
that sometimes even in adjoining gardens there will be 
found a strongly-marked difference in the quality of 
the same variety. Sometimes this is affected by the 
stock upon which the tree is worked, and at others upon 
local causes which are not easily ascertained. Whenever 
it is seen that certain varieties are doing particularly 
well in a district, those are the sorts to procure, and 
the cultivator will be more likely to be satisfied with 
the results than if a general collection of varieties is 
named. 
A few words upon planting fruit trees may be service¬ 
able now, as owing to the severe weather there has 
been little chance until now of performing the work. 
Planting should never be done while the soil is exces¬ 
sively wet, nor while there is any frost about; but 
directly it is fairly open, and seems to be settled for a 
time, take advantage of it at once and get the operation 
completed with as much dispatch as possible. Prepare 
the soil by digging it thoroughly, keeping the best soil 
near the surface, but stir it deeply enough to ensure 
good drainage. Unless the soil is very poor it will not 
be advisable to give any manure, as the result of such 
applications for young trees is often a vigorous but un- 
fruitable growth, a habit which it will not be easy to 
subsequently alter. Free but sturdy well-matured 
growth from the first is what is wanted, and then there 
is more likelihood of fruit crops later on. In planting 
spread the roots out evenly, but not too deeply, or this 
will also produce strong unfruitful growth. When 
near the surface they are warmer and more under 
command ; in the event of the tree becoming weak 
they can also be more readily assisted by top-dressings 
of manure or applications of liquid manure. The soil 
must be rendered rather firm round and over the roots, 
as this tends to cause the growth to be shorter and 
firmer than is the case in loose soil. A good sound 
loam is the best for most fruit trees ; if very heavy it 
must be lightened by the admixture of other material, 
and if too light add some turfy loam in suitable pro¬ 
portions. — Scolytus, 
