February 27, 1886. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
411 
beds lined with boards round the sides, the boards 
reaching a few inches above the ground level. The 
pots of Strawberries are plunged in cocoa fibre, and 
about an inch in depth is placed over the surface of the 
pots. Here the plants remain until they are taken into 
the houses for forcing, and they are exposed to all 
weathers. An inch of cocoa fibre kept out an astonish¬ 
ing quantity of frost, and when the plants are brought 
forth for forcing they are fresh and vigorous, the soil full 
of roots, and the roots near the surface. For a time they 
are kept in a moderate temperature until they commence 
to grow, and the temperature increases as required. If 
anyone interested in the matter will pay a visit to 
Gunnersbury Park during the Strawberry-forcing 
season, they will see excellent plants bearing rare crops 
of fruit. Mr. Roberts is too sensible a man, and too 
intelligent a gardener to say that the advocates of the 
old method are wrong; he simply asserts that the 
system he adopts answers better in his own case than 
the old plan he has abandoned. It is as unwise to 
dogmatise about matters of practice in gardening as it 
is in regard to theology or politics ; each one should 
follow the method he deems to be best, but not regard 
his brother who differs from him either as a fool or 
knave. We may differ widely in matters of detail, and 
at the same time believe in the thorough sincerity and 
honesty of one’s opponents. “Charity helpeth all 
things ” in gardening as in other departments of 
thought and activity. — R. D. 
Himantophyllum, Imantophyllum, Ima- 
tophyllum. —In nurserymen’s catalogues, and in the 
horticultural press, the name of the beautiful warm 
greenhouse or cool stove plants which head this note is 
variously written as above, most generally in the 
manner occupying the middle place, sometimes in the 
third way, and most rarely in the manner standing first 
on the list; and yet if the derivation of the name is care¬ 
fully noted, there can, I think, be no doubt that the 
first is the correct name, and that both the others are 
equally incorrect. The name is derived from two Greek 
words iptay (/umas), a strap, and <j)u\\ov (phyllon), 
a leaf from its strap-like foliage. The genitive case of 
the first derivative name is ifxccvro^ (himantos), there¬ 
fore the name can only be correctly written when it is 
spelt Himantophyllum.— TV. E. Gumbleton. 
Chimonanthus fragrans. —In the shrubbery 
almost the only ornamental shrub in flower during the 
months of February and March is Chimonanthus 
fragrans, a winter flower, which produces its delight¬ 
fully fragrant blossoms from December till March, 
though they are in the greatest perfection about Feb¬ 
ruary. Then there is the pretty Lonicera fragrantissima, 
to which we not long since called attention ; but it is 
so charming that we feel justified in referring to it 
again. It is the spring-flowering Honeysuckle, the 
blossoms of which are delightful in a bouquet with 
Violets and Lily of the Valley. The Chimonanthus 
was introduced so long ago as 1776 ; but as it was at 
first supposed it would not live without protection, and 
as it will not flower until it is of considerable size, it 
was very little grown. At last it seems to have struck 
some cultivator that as it was a native of Japan it 
might very possibly live in the open air, as many 
plants in that country are found to do in England, and 
it is now found to grow freely in the open gardens in 
the neighbourhood of London, and to produce abun¬ 
dance of flowers, particularly if trained against a wall. 
This is the best position for it; but then it should be 
a high wall for the reason above stated, because the 
plant grows to a good size before it flowers. The 
blossoms are yellowish with a purple mark on the 
bottom of each petal, and they appear before the leaves, 
which are of a smooth shining light green. There are 
two varieties ; the first, which is common, has the 
flowers much larger and handsomer than those of the 
species, but not quite so fragrant, and the other, which 
is very rare, has the flowers much smaller and entirely 
yellow. In China and Japan it is said that at great 
banquets pieces of the Chimonanthus are laid by every 
plate. 
Poinsettia pulcherrima: How to obtain 
Dwarf Plants. —During the past few weeks several 
of your correspondents have described their modes of 
growing this plant. I think it is as well that all 
systems should be properly laid before your readers, 
and therefore venture to give them details of a plan we 
adopt here for obtaining a stock of very dw'arf plants, 
and which proves very successful. The old plants have 
now finished flowering, and we shall store them away 
under a dry stage in an intermediate house, and keep 
them very dry till the commencement of July. They 
will then be cut back close to the old wood, and after¬ 
wards be given a few good soakings of water to penetrate 
the whole ball of soil. They will not be placed in a 
warmer house until they show signs of breaking into 
growth, when they will be placed upon a shelf in the 
stove close to the glass. When the young growths get 
about 2 ins. long they will be taken off with a heel 
close to the old wood and inserted round the edge of a 
cutting-pot, plunged in a good bottom heat, and kept 
close, where they will soon root. They will be potted 
off when well rooted into a rich compost, and kept close 
for a fortnight till they draw root nicely, when they 
will be placed upon the shelf in the stove and kept close 
to the glass. By being thus kept close to the glass the 
plants keep very short-jointed and sturdy, and scarcely 
ever exceed 6 ins. in height, and at this height the 
plants form their bracts, which are fully 6 ins. across. 
Plants of this size are very useful to edge the front of a 
stage in a stove intermingled with pots of Panicum 
variegatum. Let the reader imagine a line of fifty or 
a hundred plants, all about the same height, arranged 
in this manner, and I think he will be convinced the 
idea must be a good one for the purpose named. We 
do not find it advisable to start earlier than July to get 
our young plants this height. After we have taken 
as many cuttings as are required, the old plants are 
reduced at the ball, re-potted in a good compost, and 
after recovering from the effects of reducing are again 
placed in an intermediate house till the early part of 
October. After this time they are again taken into the 
stove and kept as near the glass as possible. These 
old plants make three or four good strong shoots treated 
in this manner, and are used for cutting from, leaving 
the younger ones for furnishing as described. It is as 
well to mention that the shelf in the stove is covered 
with fine ashes, and this prevents the young plants 
from becoming too dry, and the plants are fed with 
guano-water after the pots get full of roots. The size 
of pot used for the young plants is 4 ins. across, outside 
measurement. — IE. G. 
Dickson’s Matchless White Celery.— 
'Almost every gardener has his favourite sort of this 
valuable vegetable. Last year I was presented with a 
packet of the above-named kind by my friend Mr. 
Milne, of the firm of Dickson’s, Waterloo Place, 
Edinburgh, who informed me that his father had selected 
it some years ago, and had annually grown several 
thousands of it for the Edinburgh market. Of all the 
varieties of white Celery that I am acquainted with, it 
is certainly the best for salading purposes. It is of 
medium growth, very crisp and solid, and does not run 
to seed so quickly as many other kinds, some of which 
are belting already ; but the one in question is as good 
as it was two months ago. I send you a stick by 
parcels post, so that, perhaps, you will give your 
opinion of it. — TV. J. Ireland. [A very good Celery, 
undoubtedly ; but as stripped of its outer leaves we 
could not distinguish it from Turner’s Incomparable 
Dwarf White. — Ed. ] 
The Marechal Niel Rose. —Replying to “IPs.” 
query on p. 395, I beg to state that the Rose in question 
is worked upon the briar-stock. From the ground to the 
union of the branches the stock measures 2 ft. 3 ins. 
After the first heavy crop of flowers we were told that the 
big Rose would die. To prevent it from going, another 
advised us to place a mound of soil high enough to 
reach the union, so that they might root into it. The 
plant has not died, neither have we adopted the soil 
care. Like all other good things it is certain to fail 
some day, but at the present Jime the promise is 
encouraging. There is no doubt that the fact of the 
Rose being planted in an unlieated structure is the 
chief cause of success. Another point in its favour—- 
and in my opinion not one of the least—is that it was 
planted in the natural soil of the garden, which could 
be made into capital bricks if needed for that purpose. 
Is not the soil the main cause of failure in many of the 
greenhouse-planted Roses ? I am afraid the orthodox 
composition of half loam, half leaf-mould, and a third 
of sand is the too prolific source of failure in the 
Marechal Niel Rose, as well as a host of other things.— 
J. TV. Bayne, Kingston Gardens, Derby. 
Adiantum cuneatum. —There are over sixty 
kinds of Adiantums in cultivation, but out of all that 
number there is not one that can claim to be half so 
useful as the old cuneatum, whether for arranging with 
flowers for room decoration, or for making wneaths or 
crosses, or for ball or bridal bouquets. No matter 
what kind of floral decorations may be required, 
Adiantum cuneatum is the Fern to use, and what a 
blessing it is to gardeners and Florists that it is so free 
to grow, and so easy to cultivate. Yet one often finds 
it kept in far too warm and moisture laden houses 
which makes the fronds very tender, and the con¬ 
sequence is, when they are exposed to the air or heat 
of a dry warm room they shrivel up almost immediate!}". 
The best place to keep them in while making their 
growth is a Vinery at work, where they will luxuriate 
under the genial shade of the Vines, and when growing 
freely should have liquid manure water about the 
colour of bitter ale once or twice a week, this enables 
them to throw up their fronds in greater numbers, and 
puts strength and vigour into the plants also. When 
they have completed their growth they should be 
removed to a cooler and dryer house, such as a green¬ 
house, where they can be shaded for a few hours during 
the hottest part of the day ; in such a house they will 
mature their fronds and remain fresh and green on the 
plants for months, and also stand for a considerable 
time when cut. The best compost I find to grow them 
in is two parts of good turfy loam not chopped but 
pulled to pieces with the hands, one part of peat, one 
of old Mushroom bed, some charcoal broken small, and 
enough sharp sand to keep the whole porous ; they 
should be potted rather firm, and after they have began 
to grow. We give ours this treatment, and no one 
need wish to have finer plants than we have. Many of 
them are in pots ranging from 10 ins. to 13 ins. in 
diameter, and when at their best are 3 ft. and 4 ft. 
across them. Next to A. cuneatum comes A. gracil- 
limum, which does precisely under the same treatment 
and which is very useful for putting in bouquets, but 
for general purposes cannot approach the good old 
cuneatum. Adiantum Pacotii is also a useful Fern to 
grow for button-hole work, and this in my opinion is 
all it has to recommend it.— TV. C. 
- -—- 
The Gardeners’ Calendar. 
THE PLANT HOUSES. 
In most instances the different plants which were 
plunged as recommended in a previous calendar, will 
have made sufficient growth to allow of a batch of 
cuttings being taken, which should at once be done ; 
plunge in good strong bottom heat, shade and keep 
close to prevent flagging, that they may strike as 
quickly as possible. Look over the stock of Salvias 
and take sufficient cuttings for the supply, a pot-full of 
each variety will be ample, and be sure and not forget, 
amongst the newer made friends, the old, but unsur¬ 
passed, S. splendens ; if these have been kept in a cool 
house, the cuttings, after being inserted and placed in 
heat, will root very readily, pot them off as soon as 
ready and gradually harden off into pits. 
Now will be a good time to start a good batch of 
Acliimenes, keeping, of course, a part of the stock for 
later on, those started now flower well In early summer, 
and greatly help in decorative work ; give good drain¬ 
age to the pots, using a light open compost with a good 
amount of half rotten flaky leaf-mould and do not pot 
too firmly. Keep all seeds as near the glass as possible 
and out of the way of the syringe, or damping will 
ensue ; should there be any failures sow again without 
delay; this remark will also apply to propagating, in¬ 
deed, it is absolutely necessary to keep a very sharp 
look out just now. 
With special articles written on the cultivation of the 
Chrysanthemum, it is hardly necessary for me to write, 
but still where not done, let the stock at once be potted 
off and kept in a growing atmosphere, but do not stop 
until growth commences again ; after their being dis¬ 
turbed, gradually harden them off and place them in 
cold pits as soon as ready, as if coddled they are 
attacked with green fly. As the plants which have 
recently been potted in the stoves commence to take 
hold of the soil, a little less moisture may be used and 
a little air given upon all favourable occasions, or the 
growth made will be very flimsy and certainly not be 
able to stand long. 
Keep a look out on the Orchids, as these require to 
be potted at different periods, and, generally speaking, 
