438 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
March 13, 1886. 
SELECT PLANTS FOR ROCKERY 
BORDER. 
( Continued from p. 422 .) 
2 .—Plants attaining lhft, 
Acliillea ptarmica fl. pi. 
„ serrata fl. pi. 
Acanthus latifolius 
,, longifolius 
Agrostemma Flos Jovis 
,, coronaria fl. pi. 
Anemone sylvestris 
Anthericum liliastrum (B) 
„ liliago major (B) 
Amaryllis longifolia alba 
(B) . 
Armeria cephalotus rubra 
,, plantaginea rosea 
Aster amellus 
Brodifea coccinea (B) 
Campanula glomerata 
dahurica 
„ grandiflora and vars. 
,, nobilis 
,, persicifolia alba plena 
,, ,, ,, eoronata 
,, rhomboidea 
Clove Carnations 
Catananche ccerulea & alba 
Centaurea montana alba 
, j ,, l ubi a' 
Cypripedium calceolus 
,, pubescens 
,, spectabile 
Delphinium Cashmeri- 
anum 
,, chinensis (in vars) 
,, nudicaule 
,, Hendersoni 
,, Bella Donna 
Dianthus Atkinsoni 
Dielytra spectabilis 
Doronicum eaueasicum 
Erodium manescavi 
Funkias in variety 
Gentiana Andrewsii 
,, asclepedia 
,, ,, alba 
Gladioli The Bride (B) 
Geranium Endressi 
„ armenum 
,, ibericum 
Geum coccineum plenum 
Gypsophila paniculata 
Habenaria ciliaris (B) 
,, fimbriata (B) 
,, psycodes (B) 
Helenium pumilum 
Helleborus antiquorum 
majus 
,, colchicus 
,, lividus 
,, orientalis and vars. 
Hemeroeallis japonica 
Hesperismatronalisalbapl. 
,, ,, purpurea pi. 
Hypericum uralum 
Iris Germanica, in variety 
,, hispanica,invariety (B) 
,, anglica (B) 
,, stylosa 
,, Susiana 
Lilium longiflorum and 
vars. (B) 
,, pyrenaicum (B) 
,, ,, rubrum (B) 
,, pulchellum (B) 
,, concolor (B) 
to 2 ft. high or thereabouts. 
Lilium croceum (B) 
,, elegans (taller vars.) 
(B). . . 
Lobelia syphilitica 
Lychnis diurna rubra pi. 
,, Haageana, in variety 
,, viscaria splendens pi. 
Leucojum pulchellum (B) 
,, restivium (B) 
Matricaria inodora fl. pi. 
Megaseacordifoliapurpurea 
Monarda didyma 
Narcissus bicolor Horsfieldi 
(B) 
,, lorifolius maximus 
( 3 ) 
,, obvallaris maximus 
(B) 
,, ineomparabilis, in 
vars. (B) 
,, poeticus, in vars. (B) 
(Enothera fruticosa major 
,, riparia 
,, speciosa 
Ononis rotundifolia 
Orchis foliosa (B) 
Orobus vernus purpureus 
,, ,, albus 
Orchis spectabile (B) 
,, latifolia (B) 
,, fusea (B) 
,, militaris (B) 
,, mascula (B) 
Ornithogalumarabicum(B) 
,, pyramidale (B) 
Pieonia tenuifolia plena 
Papaver orientale, in var^ 
Pyrethrums (hybrids dbl.) 
Potentillas, single and 
double, in vars. 
Pentstemon gentianoides 
vars. 
Polemonium Richardsoni 
Polygonatum multiflorum 
Primula Cashmeriana 
., denticulata 
,, japonica 
,, Sikkimensis 
Ranunculus acris fl. pi. 
,, aconitifolius pleno 
Rudbeckia Newmanii 
Scabiosa caucasica 
Saxifraga peltata 
,, pyramidale 
,, nepalense 
Silene virginica 
Solidago Virgaurea nana 
Spirrea filipendula plena 
Statice latifolia 
,, Limonium 
Tulipa fulgens (B) 
,, gesneriana (B) 
Tigridias (B), (these should 
he lifted each autumn) 
Trollius asiaticus 
,, Fortunei 
,, napellifolius 
Verbascum phoenicum 
Veronica longifolia var. 
subsessilis 
,, spicata corymbosa 
Xerophyllum asphode- 
loides. 
-- 
ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE 
CHRYSANTHEMUM. -VI. 
Having referred in my previous notes to Chrysan¬ 
themums for exhibition, I now come to a mode of 
culture adopted by a large number of growers, viz., for 
decoiative purposes. Many gardeners and amateurs 
grow their plants in this way, so that they may obtain 
a great display of bloom in preference to quality of 
individual flowers, and thereby make their houses gay 
during the dullest months of the year. In all houses 
a display of bloom can be obtained from September till 
January. Where a quantity of bloom is required for 
decoiative purposes, some of the early-flowering 
varieties should be grown so as to come in in September, 
and by the middle of October the early section of the 
large-flowering varieties will commence to bloom, and 
to these I shall here confine my remarks, leaving the 
early-flowering varieties to be dealt with later on. 
In growing Chrysanthemums for decorative purposes 
the cuttings may be inserted any time from January 
to April. Prepare the cuttings and strike them 
according to the directions given in a former number. 
As soon as they are rooted stop them, and keep them 
rather dry for a week. They will then throw out shoots, 
when they should be potted singly into 3-in. pots. 
They should then be placed in a frame or on a shelf in 
a house, but take care and let them have plenty of air 
on all favourable occasions so that the plants may keep 
sturdy and strong. When the plants are well rooted 
in these pots again stop them. As soon as they have 
made further shoots repot them into 4J-in. pots, return 
them to the frame and keep them close for a few days, 
and then if the weather is favourable they may be stood 
on ashes out-doors in a sheltered position. 
When the plants are well established in these pots 
they should be gone over, and any that have not a 
sufficient number of breaks should be again stopped ; 
but where plants are grown either for specimen or 
decorative purposes, it is best to get all stopping finished 
early, as late stopping is often the cause of poor blooms, 
and if frost sets in early the result is often no blooms 
at all. 
Early in June the plants should be potted into their 
blooming pots, and the directions previously given 
should be here followed out. When the plants have 
received their final potting, a short stake should be put 
in the centre of the pots to which the plant should be 
securely fastened ; a few more stakes may also be in¬ 
serted to support the branches and prevent them from 
getting broken. Attend carefully to the watering 
of them, and syringing them during their growth 
according to former directions. From the middle of 
August the plants will commence to show their buds. 
Now a different plan must be adopted with these 
plants than has been previously directed for those 
grown for exhibition. It must be remembered that 
the object here is to have as great a display of bloom 
as possible, therefore the plants will require very little 
disbudding. At the same time, buds on some varie¬ 
ties will appear in greater profusion than on others, 
and I myself prefer, in those cases, to slightly disbud 
them. Cuttings that are struck in April should be 
stopped once, and that should be done as soon as they are 
rooted. They can be bloomed in 7-in. pots, and they 
make useful plants to distribute among other plants in 
the conservatory, or come in well for front rows. 
A few good varieties for decorative purposes are— 
Incurved: Mrs. Geo. Rundle, Geo. Glenny, Golden 
Geo. Glenny, Prince of Wales, Lord Derby, Rifleman, 
Lord Wolseley, Aurea multiflora, Lady Hardinge, 
General Bainbrigge, Jardin des Plantes, Barbara. 
Japanese : Elaine, Lady Selborne, James Salter, L’Afri- 
caine, Mdlle. Lacroix, Peter the Great, Mignon, Venus, 
Gloire de Toulouse, Hiver Fleuri, Mons. Boyer, La 
Nymphe, To Kio, Fair Maid of Guernsey, Mons. Chas. 
Hubert, Roseum superbum, Dr. Macary. Reflexed : 
Cullingfordii, King of the Crimsons, Dr. Sharpe, 
Progne, Julie Lagravere, Christine (peach and golden), 
Mrs. Forsyth, Annie Salter, Heloise. In my next I 
will give directions for growing the early-flowering 
varieties.— JR. E. Boyce, Yerbury Road, Holloway. 
--i- 
RED POTATOS. 
Just as the Vicar of Laleham became the most 
popular of purple round kinds, so did the handsome 
Reading Russett obtain the same position amongst the 
red rounds. This is, perhaps, the best of all Mr. Fenn’s 
seedlings, because it has size, beauty, quality, and pro¬ 
ductiveness ; and it will be long ere, as a red round, 
it can be displaced. This handsome kind originated 
from an Anglo-American cross, the Yankee parent 
being, I believe, the Willard. Prizetaker Kidney came 
from the same parentage. Mr. Fenn originally named 
the Russett, Berkshire Rose, and I think it was the most 
pleasing name of the two ; however, under whatever 
name it is known, it is a first-class kind, and worthily 
stands at the head of the red round section. It is a free 
seeder, hence has reproduced itself from seed liberally. 
I do not see very well how it can be excelled, but I 
have seed from a cross between that and The Dean, 
which may produce something interesting and good. 
Prior to the introduction of Reading Russett, our best 
red rounds of home origin, were Grampian and Red 
Emperor, both handsome, but neither good. America 
gave us Triumph, Adirondack, and Matchless, the 
latter of pale hue ; some other American sorts might 
be named also, but the above are the best. Of 
newer red rounds we have a good form, but flatfish in 
shape in Rufus, and Rosebud is handsome and of first- 
rate quality ; Lady Roseberry seems to approach to 
Grampian in character, and of good quality. Also red 
kidneys have been of late more largely added to, for 
some very handsome kinds are found in Cardinal, 
Crimson Beauty, and Ruby. The first is from Bedfont, 
the second is one of Mr. Hughes’ seedlings, and the 
latter is one of Mr. Fenn’s. All are handsome true 
kidneys, of fine quality and very prolific. Whilst Mr. 
Bresee still remains the finest of all red kinds, it is run 
very hard indeed by the new ones. 
Then there is Prizetaker (of fine quality), Beauty of 
Hebron, Enterprise, and Lifeguard, the latter some¬ 
what mottled or flaked in colour. I have omitted 
reference to such a good kind as Radstock Beauty, 
because it is only moderately coloured with carmine ; 
still it is -worthy of a high place in any collection of 
coloured Potatos, and is also of first-class quality, and 
very prolific.— A. D. 
•-- 
Scottish Gardening. 
Planting Vegetables.— The earliest oppor¬ 
tunity should be taken to plant the various kinds of 
crops which are to be serviceable during summer, and 
onwards. With light land of a dry nature there is 
little difficulty in forwarding such important work, but 
on tenacious clay which takes a long time to become 
fit for planting, much anxiety at this season may be 
experienced, and much patience taxed. We know what 
it is to have to use fresh soil next the roots of all plants 
while the work of planting is proceeded with, giving 
a triple amount of labour, but the results were worth 
all the extra trouble. We have since the 25th of 
February, taken every opportunity, to forward all such 
pressing work, often using old soil which has been 
turned out of pots. A store of such mould is of special 
value at this season. 
Among important items claiming attention are Arti¬ 
chokes (Jerusalem and Globe), Borecole (from autumn 
sowings), Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Let¬ 
tuce, Onions, Herbs, of sorts, Potatos, Savoys, Rhubarb, 
Horse Radish, Sea Kale, Shallots, and Garlic. Arti¬ 
chokes known as the “ Jerusalem ” kind make huge 
stems when the ground in which the tubers are planted 
is rich and deep, they are, therefore, easily blown down 
by wind ; if the position is exposed a rail or some other 
support may be necessary to keep them upright. 
Treated in other respects like Potatos is the chief of 
their cultural wants. Globe Artichokes treated much 
in the same way as Rhubarb answers well where they 
are protected (and in most places protection round the 
crowns is necessary). They may be cleared now, and 
the soil be forked between the plants, adding manure if 
necessary, and covering the crowns (in process of digging) 
with a little clean soil! If there are blanks caused by 
frost or damp, pieces of roots with live crowns may be 
taken from uninjured ones, and planted in well broken 
soil, mulching and finishing in an orderly manner ; but 
it is the best system to wait for suckers and transplant 
them, as they generally make finer plants, and give a 
late supply the first season after planting. 
Borecole (or curled Kale) which has wintered in 
good condition may be planted in rows 2 ft. apart each 
way ; if the ground is not rich less room apart will 
answer. The coarse grown Kale often seen in cot¬ 
tagers’ gardens is not to be recommended in preference 
to smaller and compact grown produce requiring less 
space between the plants. Brussels Sprouts are valued 
by some early in autumn, and when planted now from 
the reserve stock will meet such a requirement. For 
vigorous growth, 2 ft. to 2^ ft. is necessary for the 
development of these early plants. Cabbages are scarce 
this season—cottagers generally begin planting about 
the end of February ; gardeners in the north need 
never be afraid to imitate their neighbours who have 
had their tuition as cultivators of certain favourites 
handed down from a remote ancestry. Closer planting 
may be practised than with other kinds of brassicas, 
and thinned out for use as the plants become fit. 
Cauliflower requires extra care, and where a frame 
can be spared the plants may be potted and grown on, 
hardening them gradually as the period for transplant¬ 
ing draws nigh, which is generally from the middle of 
March onward. Drills are often drawn deeply as a 
protection, and flower pots are used, putting them on at 
night or when frosty. Handliglits and other pro¬ 
tectors are used to tide the crop over the trying season. 
Lettuce which has been in sheltered quarters or under 
glass protection, must be well inured to the weather 
before being transplanted. Plants on borders or 
