614 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
May 29, 1886. 
be assisted, firstly, by the sale, where practicable, of 
small pieces of land ; secondly, by conferring cottage 
gardens; thirdly, by conferring “cow runs;” and 
fourthly and lastly, by means of general allotments. 
His own experience was thoroughly favourable to 
allotments, and he had seen nothing but good come of 
the system. Mr. Brodrick, M.P., seconded, and the 
Marquis of Bristol, Sir E. Lechmere, M.P., and Sir 
Harry Verney supported the resolution, which was 
carried unanimously. 
-- 
ON THE ROOT-STRUCTURE OP 
PRIMULACEiE. 
(Concluded from p. 571.) 
Storage and Best. 
In perennials we have specially to consider the ar¬ 
rangements for storage of food in convenient places for 
use when required, and the modifications of structure 
associated with the periodic alternations of active growth 
and relative rest. Of a Primrose, whether “by a 
river’s brim,” or elsewhere, whether a yellow Primrose 
or one of other hue, it may be said that at one season 
its constant care is to increase its store, while at another 
its aim is to make all snug for winter. Of course the 
Primrose is not peculiar in these matters ; but we may, 
perchance, profit somewhat if we make use of it as an 
illustration of general application. 
The Boot stock. 
The body which emits roots on the one side or 
beneath and throws up leaves and flowers on The other 
is the “rhizome,” or root-stock. It is usually sub¬ 
terranean, and so gets called a root, but inasmuch as 
it produces leaves, buds, and offsets, and has the 
internal structure of a stem, botanists will not admit 
its claim to be considered a root, for a root, under 
ordinary circumstances ( exceptis prcetermissus ), does 
none of these things. It is a development of the 
plumale.or of the canticle, or of both together. "Usually 
it is more or less horizontal in its direction, as in the 
Primrose, in other cases it is vertical, as in the Auri¬ 
cula, where it thrusts itself above-ground, and gives 
off buds or offsets in such a way that no one can mis¬ 
take it for a root. Horizontal or erect, it throws down 
feeding-roots into the soil, and these roots are usually 
fleshy, serving, indeed, not only as feeders, but as 
storeplaces as well, thus sharing the office of the stock 
itself. At the free end of the stock is a bud, or a 
cluster of buds, by means of which the plant grows. 
From these buds upspring the leaves and flowers. 
Polarity of the Stock. 
Owing to this position of the buds the stock grows 
at one end, and extends and pushes itself into new 
territory, while the other end of the stock, having 
yielded up its store of water and starch to the growing 
bad, gradually decays. Thus the plant effects very 
quietly and gradually a change of residence—an indi¬ 
cation of the desirability of occasional transplantation. 
This progressive decay at one end suggested to old 
Auricula growers the “removal of the end of the 
Carrot,” and there was nothing to be said against the 
process provided their surgery was confined to dead 
portion only, and did not include the healthy and 
(potentially) active roots also. In such a case the 
stock is put to the trouble of making new roots, which, 
to say the truth, it does not fail to do speedily under 
propitious circumstances. 
The progressive growth at one end associated with 
progressive decay at the other, is a very marked 
feature in Primulaceee. 'Moreover, it is often mani¬ 
fested in the earliest period. The root apparatus of 
the seedling plant seems destined for the use of the 
seedling only (which is thus, as before noticed, prac¬ 
tically an annual), and when the plumale developes 
gradually into a permanent stem with its leaves and 
potential flowers, new roots are thrust out from the 
plumule. 
The development of the tufted stem from the plumule 
is well exemplified in the case of the Cowslip, as pointed 
out to me some years since by Mr. Holland. The 
seedling plant germinates in the usual way, but after a 
time the weight of the rapidly growing plumule causes 
the eaulicle to bend downwards and become more or 
less horizontal. Adventitious roots are then thrown 
out from the top of the original eaulicle or the base of 
the plumule, which gradually decays, leaving the 
young plant independent. (Henfrey’s Elementary 
Course of Botany, ed. 4, p. 654. ) 
Protection. 
One other provision with reference to the root-stock 
may here be noted, and that is the manner in which, 
in most species—‘notably, in P. latifolia, P. graveolens, 
P. Palinuri—the deeply descending rhizome is protected 
from loss of heat, as also from mechanical injury by the 
dense covering afforded by the remains of the old leaves. 
Contrast this state of things with the way in which 
Auriculas thrust themselves out of the ground, their 
root-stalks showing little or no trace of the leaves 
beyond the scar, which indicates the place whence 
they have fallen. It would be interesting to ascertain 
whether these peculiarities in the Auricula may not be 
connected with the development of offsets (buds) from 
the side of the rhizome. 
Tubers. 
The tuber of a Cyclamen (a development originally 
from the tigellum) is essentially the same as the root- 
stock, differing only in its more or less globular form. 
It throws off feeding-roots from its base or its sides, 
and it forms a bud or buds at the top. Its fleshy 
tissue is laden with starch and building material for new 
growth. 
In Trientalis, from the eaulicle or from the base of 
the plumule emerge long subterranean branches, which 
end in thickened tubers like those of C'onvolulus sepium. 
"Winter Buds. 
In Primula rosea and P. involucrata,^P, farinosa, P. 
rotundifolia (herbarium -spec.), and probably in many 
other species, we find what may be termed winter buds. 
In point of fact the stock in these cases decays away 
almost entirely, leaving only the buds which form at 
its extremity, or at the ends of its branches. These 
bubs are made of dilated leaf-stalks densely packed one 
over the other, like the similar parts in a “head of 
Celeiy.” They are furnished at the base with numer¬ 
ous root-fibres, very fleshy in P. involucrata, fibrous in 
P. rosea, and which serve to supply sufficient moisture 
in the dry season. Carefully stowed away in the centre 
of the leaves is the inflorescence whose tiny pearl-like 
flowers may be seen securely nestling, even in mid¬ 
winter, beneath their protective wraps exactly as in 
the case of bulbs, or Cabbages in which the leaves ‘ ‘turn 
in” well. P. denticulata is not so fortunate. In this 
plant, the leaves spread widely and do not close up to 
cover the inflorescence, the consequence of which is the 
latter is apt to be stimulated by the capricious and 
unseasonable gleams of sun that we get in some winters, 
and bursts into bloom at a time when “a frost, a killing 
frost,” is only too likely to damage the blossoms, or, if 
this does not happen, the flowers are liable to be rotted 
with wet or snow. Of course this is easily prevented 
by laying a Fir branch or other protection over the 
plant. 
The formation of a thick root-stock of tubers, of fleshy 
roots, or of large winter buds, may all be taken as 
indicative that the plant is thrifty enough to lay by a 
provision for the future, and, moreover, that it adapts 
itself to falling temperature and other untoward circum¬ 
stances, and goes to rest. To afford such rest in our 
uncertain climate is, as all gardeners know, occasionally 
a difficult matter. In my own experience, which, if 
personally small, is vicariously large, I find much 
virtue in a covering of Fern, straw, or a Fir branch. 
The foregoing remarks apply to plants growing in 
the open air, or with no other protection than a cold 
frame in winter. Under glass the requirements are 
somewhat different, and the conditions likewise. The 
plant is grown for some special purpose, and the gar¬ 
dener considers not so much the natural “habit” of 
the plant under normal circumstances, and the way in 
which he may promote its welfare, as to the manner in 
which he can induce it to adapt itself to his require¬ 
ments, and the conditions he offers. He may even find 
it requisite or advantageous to invert the natural course 
of things—to force when the plant, left to itself, would 
go to rest, to check growth when the natural tendency 
would be to progress. For instance, the formation of 
the Cyclamen tuber is an indication that the plant, 
under natural circumstances, has a season of rest; and 
before Cyclamen culture had reached such a pitch of 
perfection as it has now attained, growers were wont to 
give the tubers an enforced rest by drying them off. 
Now, that practice is quite reversed ; and that such an 
amount of rest as the old growers gave the plant is not 
necessary under artificial conditions, is shown by the 
fact that the foliage of the Cyclamen is persistent, and 
no deficiency of food to sustain this prolonged season of 
growth is to be feared, for food the gardener can give 
freely and at times when Nature herself might close 
her stores. This justifies the treatment of the Cycla¬ 
men as if it were a bulb with evergreen foliage. 
Servile imitation of Nature—such imitation, that is, 
as we can compass—is, to say the least, not very much 
better than mechanical routine. The wisdom of the 
gardener is shown first in his knowledge of plants and 
their ways, and next in the skill and judgment which 
he brings to bear in inducing or helping the plant to 
adapt itself to unnatural conditions, and to the fulfil- 
ment of artificial requirements. 
Whether from the point of view of the physiologist, 
or from that of the cultivator, a thorough study of the 
life-history of plants is absolutely essential to complete 
success. It is not given to any to reach the highest 
standard, but it is a satisfaction to know that every 
step in the way is a real gain—a link in the chain of 
true progress—a progress which, at least as far as the 
community at large is concerned, knows no counter¬ 
march. —( Communimted to Primula Conference by J) r . 
Masters ). 
-- 
ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE 
CHRYSANTHEMUM. —X. 
Although the early-flowering varieties are the best 
for growing in the borders, yet the large flowering 
varieties are sometimes planted out, and in mild seasons 
they produce a fair display of bloom. For this purpose 
the cuttings need not be inserted until February or 
March, and when they are rooted they should be stopped 
and potted off singly into 3-in. pots as previously directed. 
As soon as they are established in these pots, graduallv 
harden them off, and before planting them out let them 
be fully exposed to the night air for a few days. They 
can then be planted out at the end of April or early in 
May in well manured soil, and a strong stake should be 
put to each plant, to which the shoots should be securely 
tied. They will require very little labour in watering 
them, but in hot weather the foliage should be syringed 
every evening. 
Plants grown during the summer in this way, can, if 
desired, be taken up for blooming in the greenhouse, 
and should be treated as follows :—The best time to 
take the plants up is shortly after the buds are set; but 
before taking them up, each plant should (if dry) be 
well watered, and a circle should be cut round each 
about a fortnight before they are lifted. Keep them well 
watered, and when they are lifted the roots can be got 
well into Sl-in. pots. As soon as they are potted they 
should be well watered, and be stood in a shady position 
and syringed once or twice a day when they will 
soon recover. Then they should be removed to a 
sunny position till they are taken into the house 
In many gardens Chrysanthemums are planted out 
permanently. "Where such is the case, they should be 
taken up in April, the'ground manured, and the roots 
be divided and replanted. By so doing the plants 
will produce better blooms than if left to grow on 
undisturbed year after year. After they have done 
blooming they should be cut down and treated according 
to the directions given on p. 246. 
Where late blooms are desired, the cuttings should 
not be inserted till February. As soon as they are 
struck they should be stopped, and when they com¬ 
mence to break, pot them singly into 3-in. pots, and 
return to the frame. Before they are repotted again, 
the shoots should be gone over, and any that are 
4 ins. long should be stopped. They should be finally 
stopped about the last week in June, and should be 
finally potted about ten days after this stopping. 
When the buds show colour, the plants should be 
placed under some temporary shelter to keep the frost 
from injuring the buds. A good plan to adopt is to 
drive some strong poles into the ground, to which a few 
pieces of wood can be fixed, and some mats thrown 
over to protect the plants from injury by frost. The 
plants should be kept outdoors until the blooms com¬ 
mence to open, when they should be placed in a cool, 
light house, giving plenty of air night and day ; but in 
wet or foggy weather a little fire-heat should be applied, 
or the grower will run the risk of having his blooms 
spoilt by damp or mildew. 
The following are a few good varieties for late 
blooming:—Boule d'Or, Boule de Neige, Ceres, Ethel, 
Fair Maid of Guernsey, Fleur de Marie, Grandiflora, 
Hero of Stoke Newington, Meg Merrilies, Miss Mare- 
chaux, JIrs. C. Carey, Mons. Lemoine, Peter the Great. 
Princess Teck, Snowdrop, and Yirginale. — IP. E. 
Boyce, Archxoay Road, Highgate, N. 
