June 12, 1886. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
647 
compost at this stage may be made more substantial, 
by doubling the proportion of loam to that of the leaf 
mould, using also about a sixth part of the bulk of dry 
horse or cow dung, and a lesser quantity of sand than 
has been proscribed for the seed pots. Avoid the use 
of the riddle, now and at subsequent pottings, in mak¬ 
ing up the compost, merely breaking it up and rubbing 
it freely with the hands, leaving it rather lumpy and 
porous than fine and close in texture. Lift the plants 
from the pans with care, so as to secure as much soil 
along with the roots as possible ; drain the pots well 
and fill in the soil firmly but without so much pressure 
as to render it hard and impenetrable to the roots. The 
plants will do best, after this potting, standing in a 
cold frame on a bed of coal ashes, giving them plenty 
of room, keeping them close to the glass and freely 
ventilated. Here they may stand till the end of Sep¬ 
tember, when it will become necessary to remove them 
to somewhat drier quarters, and where they may be 
kept safe from frost. Meantime, they should be 
attended to as to potting as required by the progress 
made. They must never be allowed to become pot- 
bound, but large shifts are equally to be avoided as 
injurious. A good size of pot in which to winter them 
is the 5-incli, and the best place is a front stage in the 
greenhouse near the glass, standing on gravel or ashes 
in preference to an open stage. As much air should be 
given as possible, consistent with the exclusion of harsh 
draughts and frost. The temperature need not be 
higher than from 40° to 50°, and if this can be main¬ 
tained without the aid of fire-heat, so much the better. 
When growth commences in spring, place the plants 
in their flowering-pots, which may be 8 ins. or more, 
according to the promise in regard to the strength of 
the individuals at this time, and also the purpose in 
view ; but a 10-in. pot may be regarded as ample in 
which to flower the largest specimens. The plants 
will now make rapid progress, and will require careful 
attention in regard to watering after they have filled 
their flowering-pots with roots. Their strength should 
be kept up after they have fully occupied the last shift 
by means of liquid manure, which may be given thrice 
a week—taking care that it is not too strong—till they 
begin opening their flowers, when pure water only 
should be supplied to them. 
The cardinal points in the culture of the Calceolaria 
are sowing at the medium period—that is June ; early 
pricking-off after brairding ; shade from strong sun¬ 
light during the summer, yet free exposure to moderate 
light ; a light but rich compost; an abundant supply 
of moisture along with perfect drainage ; scrupulous 
attention to keeping insects in check, especially aphis, 
which is the most common enemy of the plant; and in 
winter protection from frost, with the least possible aid 
from fire-heat.— Z. 
-- 
Scottish Gardening. 
The Vegetable Garden. —With the weakness 
of one’s faith, when a season seems to be adverse, fears 
innumerable arise, and from what we hear from our 
friends, anxiety has been greater this year than usual. 
The long cold winter period left the ground less 
manageable, until we had a few mild days, genial 
showers, and really strong sunshine, which have given 
a good start to vegetation in general. Many seeds 
have remained long in the earth without vegetating, 
French Beans, Beetroot, Parsnips, and Turnips, es¬ 
pecially, but all now seems to go well, and probably a 
fair return for our labour—and may be a rebuke to our 
“weak faith”— may be in store for us. We notice 
Potatos coming up well in most fields and gardens ; 
those planted late are by no means the latest now. On 
the strong lands of this district, Broad Beans are looking 
well, much better from the late planted seed on the dry 
and warm soil, than from the smaller lots planted early, 
no doubt when the ground was so cold, which weakened 
the vitality of the seeds. The same theory seems to be 
sound in regard to Scotch Potatos growing in the fields, 
as in the middle of May, and even into June, quanti¬ 
ties were planted ; and late Potatos planted thus last 
year, are expected to be plentiful for six weeks, or more, 
to come. 
The bedding out being mostly finished, prompt atten¬ 
tion to many items in the vegetable garden is now 
of primary importance. Artichokes (Globe) which have 
come up in thickets should be well thinned to two or 
three of the strongest crowns. It is better to have a 
small number of good heads than large quantities not 
worth their room. Good suckers put in now are likely 
to bear well late in the autumn, thus keeping up a good 
succession of heads. Liberal mulching and manure- 
water is of much advantage, on poor lands especially. 
Jerusalem Artichokes, now growing freely, require 
little more attention than a free use of the hoe to keep 
the surface healthy and free from weeds. Broad Beans 
inclined to grow tall require timely topping, and in low 
or damp-lying ground “ earthing-up” of these crops is 
of advantage, but it is many years since we practised 
it. If late green Beans are wanted, there is still time 
to secure them by planting at once, and the same may 
be said of Peas ; but well-manured land, and the crops 
sown a week or two ago not having been sown too 
thickly, will keep on fruiting and growing into October, 
always provided that early frost does not put an end to 
them, as it did last year, before the end of September, 
while they bore abundantly the year before till the end 
of October. 
French Beans planted from small pots into good 
ground, after the plants were specially prepared, will 
now be making headway, and those in frames and cold 
pits, sown after Potatos and Turnips were lifted, will 
now keep up abundant supplies. A sowing may be 
made now and be protected later. This crop is de¬ 
cidedly a difficult one to manage in northern and cold 
districts. Runners are more hardy, and may be pro¬ 
tected by stakes ; but we grow them as dwarfs, topping- 
back the runners and picking the Beans clean before 
they become too large. Beet now growing rapidly may 
be thinned ; but if it has come up patchy, like ours, 
the thinnings should be carefully lifted and trans¬ 
planted. If the soil is strong, a handful of finely- 
sifted earth, placed with the plants and watered in 
process of planting, will give them a rapid start, and 
good roots may be expected. 
Borecole, Broccoli, t Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, 
Savoys, and Cabbage, which have been pricked out 
from the seed rows and now become sturdy may be 
planted without delay. Careful lifting, watering quickly 
after the plants are placed in their permanent quarters, 
are some of the amenities which prevent disappoint¬ 
ment. Drills drawn, which are afterwards closed up 
by the hoe when the plants are well established, is all 
the “ earthing up ” they require. A dusting of soot 
mixed with fine ashes is a good preventive against slugs 
and grubs—the dose may be repeated. The washing 
of the soot down to the roots is a reward for the labour 
itself. Cabbage may be sown soon for autumn supplies 
of young heads, but on extra manured ground the 
sprouts are much valued, and can also be allowed to 
heart. The Rosette Colwort is a good kind to sow 
just now. Carrots may be sown every few weeks for 
drawing young, it being useless attempting to grow 
large roots in many gardens. In Scotland this diffi¬ 
culty is almost general; sooting, liming, mulching with 
grass, trenching deeply on land where Carrots have 
never been grown we have often done with indifferent 
success. Last autumn, when we were deluged with 
Apples, we exchanged a lot with a salesman who gave 
us a fine lot of English, French, and, latterly, Aber¬ 
deen Carrots in exchange. An understanding of this 
kind may suit advantageously all parties concerned. 
Celery planting is now in full force, and where land 
is not abundant we prefer the old system of three or 
four rows in a trench, and the latter not made deeply ; 
indeed, manure dug in thickly (a good practice by 
many market men), suits cold hard land well. 
Lettuce may be sown now in quantity (on good, rich, 
deeply dug soil), where the crop is to remain till lifted. 
Imperial White Cos and Bath” Cos are favourites with 
us at the present time. Crops requiring thinning 
should have timely attention, and a quantity of the 
best of the thinnings should be planted in a cool 
position to give a succession. Leeks require very rich 
land—a hint unnecessary to the most obscure northern 
cultivator—and may be planted in rows 1 ft. apart, 
and 8 ins. from plant to 'plant. Some give much 
greater room, and treat the same like Celery ; but the 
demand alone must decide in such cases. For ordinary 
usefuljjLeeks we do not go much wider than advised. 
Onions now require thinning ; we would prefer doing 
this twice where there is danger of grubs, filling up 
gaps as the work proceeds. After each thinning, 
place soot along the drills, and repeat it after rains or 
during showery weather. Keep the surfaces clean and 
nicely hoed. 
Onions require firm and rich soil to make them bulb 
well. We have seen competing cottagers tread all over 
the ground, the tops being flattened (apparently unto¬ 
ward treatment) and appeared injured, but it was not so. 
Early bulbs (though not very large) were had, while 
others, untrampled, had larger growth which did not 
end in “keepers.” Shallots and Potato Onions are 
well worth the growing, and often give good supplies 
where the maggot cannot be combated among sown 
Onions. These, along with refuse of our stock of 
Onions (planted out in March), are doing good service 
at the present time ; frequent dustings of soot have 
done much to give luxuriant growth and keep vermin 
off. Radishes, Rampion, Lamb’s Lettuce, Turnips, 
Land and Golden Cress, may now be sown in larger 
quantities. Wire frames put over small weekly sowings 
answer well to ward off birds. A pinch of Endive, 
Batavian and Green Curled, may be sown soon. Choose 
a cool spot on well dug ground ; moisten the soil well 
at first ; this may secure an early lot should such be 
wanted, but sowings before the end of the month are 
very liable to “bolt” to seed. Our sowings of last 
August, kept under protection of hand-lights all the 
winter, are just finished, and had there been more 
Batavian Endive, we believe it would have lasted useful 
to the end of this month. Watering has not been 
required in this district, but a free use of the hoe to 
keep open the surface of the soil has been of great bene¬ 
fit to the crops. — M. T. 
Calceolarias at Beech Hill Nursery, 
Edinburgh. —The great improvement that has been 
effected in the herbaceous or greenhouse Calceolaria in 
recent years is very remarkable ; how it has been 
brought about we need not here stop to enquire. It is 
sufficient to all lovers of this deservedly popular green¬ 
house flower, to know that there has been immense 
improvements effected in several important respects, 
and that they may enjoy the result in growing the best 
only, at the same cost in cash and trouble as the worst. 
One of the finest strains I have yet met with, I recently 
saw in Mr. John Downie’s nursery above named. The 
plants were well grown, and in prime condition every 
way, being in the full flush of flowering, fresh and 
gorgeous in the brightness and rich variety of colours 
they presented. A very notable feature of the strain 
is its compact dwarf sturdy habit which is uniform, not 
in the sense that the plants are uniformly all of one 
height, for they vary from 9 ins. to 2 ft. in height from 
the pot, but there is a uniformity of balance between 
the height and the width of the individual plants, that 
is striking and apparently peculiar to the race. The 
taller plants present no legginess, but a broad massive¬ 
ness of foliage and flowers that is very pleasing, and 
the dwarfer ones in like proportions of height and 
width, supply capital gradations for grouping along 
with the others, that will be appreciated for many pur¬ 
poses in the conservatory and rooms. The colours are 
charming, many self-coloured flowers being novel in 
tint ; the flowers are large and of unusual density of 
substance.— S. G. IV. 
-- 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN 
Bedding out may now be completed and the tender 
Alternantlieras or other plants intended for carpet-beds 
should be ready for placing out, strong and well 
hardened, so that they are not likely to be checked by 
exposure. In all cases of summer bedding it is pre¬ 
ferable to place the plants rather closely together, as if 
thin planting is practised a considerable time elapses 
before the beds are properly filled, and if the season 
should prove unfavourable they never present a favour¬ 
able appearance. Liberality in this respect is judicious, 
especially since it is easy to keep the plants in bounds 
by pinching the growths, if necessary. For carpet- 
beds adopt simple elegant geometrical designs, the very 
elaborate intricate designs are difficult to plant in a 
proper manner, and after all have a complicated aspect 
that is often far from pleasing. Circular or oval beds 
are seen to best advantage when the designs consist of 
curved figures ; the square or oblong beds may include 
the straight-line figures. 
Most careful planting is requisite for carpet-beds or 
the best designs will be spoiled, and subsequently close 
attention must be given to keeping the lines clear and 
distinct, for such beds must have precision of design 
and neatness or they lose all their beauty. 
The herbaceous-plant border is now very attractive, 
