June 19, 1886. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
663 
seen to excellent advantage. By noting these pecu¬ 
liarities or recommendations many shrubberies might 
be improved and diversified, and unfortunately it does 
not appear that so much attention is given to this 
matter as it deserves. The number of introduced 
ornamental trees and shrubs is now very large, and 
they have still been farther increased in nurseries by 
raising seedlings or propagating sports. 
The varieties of common British trees are now 
extremely abundant, many of them differing so greatly 
in their leaf forms and colouring that they would 
scarcely be recognised as relatives of the better known 
species, some have the leaves deeply cut into irregular 
segments, and others are variegated with yellow or 
white in a variety of ways many being extremely beau¬ 
tiful. They require, however, to be planted with some 
judgment, and none of these garden raised forms should 
be allowed to predominate—one here and there helps 
to relieve the monotony, but too many gives a formality 
or unnaturalness that should be especially avoided. 
The copper-leaved Beech can, perhaps, be employed 
with the greatest freedom, but even this is seen to 
much better advantage when planted as an isolated 
specimen, near a background of the ordinary green- 
foliaged trees. The variegated Acer negundo is very 
effective, and though it has been expelled from gardens 
by some horticultural purists, it by no means merits 
the condemnation it has received ; for if planted in 
shrubberies, where it peeps from among more sombre- 
coloured foliage, its appearance is charming—at least, 
to ordinary tastes. A few standards have a good effect 
in borders near the margin of lawns, but they should 
not have a too conspicuous situation, as, being de¬ 
ciduous, they look rather bare in winter, and are more 
noticeable than when in shrubberies. 
The diversity in the shades of green is more observ¬ 
able in the early spring, when the leaves are just 
expanding, for innumerable tints are then seen, if 
many distinct kinds of trees are planted, from the soft 
tender hue of the Lime to the darkest evergreen. The 
lightest shades are now lost, although the leaves are 
fresh still, owing to the recent rains ; and the dif¬ 
ferences in an ordinary mixed plantation are readily 
distinguished. The season has suited most ornamental 
trees admirably ; they are making vigorous growth, 
and are likely to continue attractive much longer than 
is usually the case.— Arbor. 
-■"->!:<-- 
Scottish Gardening. 
Strawberry Runners for Forcing.— In 
northern and late districts where there is a difficulty in 
getting well matured growth in autumn, accompanied 
by strong well developed crowns ready for forcing at 
the right time, a special effort should now be made to 
get runners rooted and potted for the purpose. If 
young plants were planted during the autumn, and in 
good condition, they should produce the best of runners. 
Those saved over the winter are generally stunted, and 
produce a large number of small flowers which do not 
form fruit that swell to a large size ; some depend on the 
early forced plants for their stock of runners for forcing, 
but we have never seen such as strong as those from 
young plants established in the autumn ; runners 
rooted in the ground in their natural form, lifted, potted 
and placed in the shade a few days answer very well. But 
we (after trying every system of which we have read) 
prefer the old well tried system of placing a cut of turf 
or good loam in a small pot, fastening the runner in the 
soil by a small stone or peg, and when roots are plen¬ 
tiful, the plant is transferred to the fruiting pot, potted 
firm and stood in the full sun, watered regularly and well; 
roots kept from rooting through the bottoms of the pots, 
weeds and runners eradicated as soon as they appear, and 
plenty of room given to develope the foliage. Early ripen¬ 
ing of the crowns, a long rest and careful storage of the 
plants during winter are items of primary importance 
in their management—especially in cold districts. 
We have stored the plants on their sides, against 
walls facing the sun, in frames, cool fruit houses and 
by other methods, but prefer placing the pots in ashes 
to their rims and leaving them to all weathers; shutters 
placed over skeleton frames to keep off heavy snowfalls 
are advantageous. During last winter, and often before, 
we have taken the plants in, from time to time as suc¬ 
cession required, with the pots crammed with masses of 
white healthy roots, and now that these are forced and 
ready for planting out in the ground, they are in the 
best condition possible. 
The kind which most readily meets all wants in the 
north, is Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury. We are 
generally on the search for information when oppor¬ 
tunity affords it; and lately we met Mr. Matliison, of 
Meiklour, in Perthshire, and replying to our enquiries, 
he stated that he had almost parted with all kinds of 
Strawberries, both for outside and for forcing, retaining 
the above named only. We have much confidence in 
the practice of this well-known successful cultivator of 
fruits, whose experience has been wide both in the north 
and south. In addition to this kind we have forced 
some 400 of Sir Harry this year, which have given 
much satisfaction. That kind along 'with President 
did well last year. Old Melon soil makes excellent 
potting material for Strawberries ; fresh manure is very 
objectionable ; bone meal and a little soot in the soil 
is a good and pure stimulant; vine manure (Thomson’s) 
is excellent. 
Mulching.—The practice of protecting the roots of 
plants in the open air from burning heat and severe cold 
is becoming more general the better it is understood 
and appreciated, and at the present time one naturally 
looks for a maximum of sun, which is often accompanied 
by severe drought; but where a proper system of 
mulching is a portion of the general garden work, there 
is a minimum amount of difficulty compared with the 
leave alone system. Mulching does not always mean a 
quantity of rich manure placed over the ground in which 
roots of plants are growing. A free use of the hoe 
which leaves an open surface of loose soil, a quantity of 
soil spread over the surface, such as rotted leaf-mould, 
old peat, refuse of potting benches, grass from lawns, 
rotted turf, and other material. Did we have the choice 
of any of these for summer applications, rotted manure 
or rich soil would be accepted, and for many purposes the 
two mixed together, or a layer of manure and the soil 
levelled evenly over it. The latter has been our general 
practice for years past. Often among fruit bushes, 
Raspberries, shrubs, Rhubarb, Dahlias, Hollyhocks, 
Roses, and other plants, we remove back the surface 
soil, place the manure nicely as far as the roots extend, 
then replace the soil leaving it open, thus keeping in 
the virtue of the former, and giving the whole surface 
a clean appearance ; even in vegetable gardens this is 
of moment. While we believe in plenty of healthy 
manure applied to gross feeding plants which are wanted 
to make luxuriant growth during summer, we detest the 
practice of filling the soil till it is almost poisoned with 
humus. 
Referring to Strawberries, this season we notice a 
goodly-sized plot, which was left unmulched in winter, 
far ahead of those which had a good surfacing of cow- 
manure, well rotted. We know a great grower who 
never mulched for these except just before the fruiting 
period, with clean straw. Vines had some charcoal 
dust spread over the borders during winter, and the 
Strawberries had a good coating of manure at planting¬ 
time. A quantity of plants were trenched down every 
year just after they fruited, which was a good prepara¬ 
tion for Cabbage or similar crops ; and a young 
plantation (in proportion to the requirements of the 
place) was planted as soon as the plants were fit, after 
they had been forced. We notice the benefical effects 
at the present time, of good mulching on Raspberries, 
Gooseberries, Currants, and Celery; this we mulch with 
grass or any easily obtained material as planting pro¬ 
ceeds. On shrubs peat and other soil is used with the best 
results. Rhododendrons planted two seasons ago in 
very poor gravelly soil, mixed with bog-earth and well 
mulched at the time, and the application repeated to 
the surface has done a deal to aid the plants in 
carrying loads of bloom ; they are now at their best 
and starting freely into strong growth. 
Early Turnips.—Among many kinds recom¬ 
mended for early use, rve have found that the Early 
Milan has no equals ; we have tried in pits under 
glass, in the open ground, and on early borders, but 
this really valuable acquisition has outdistanced all 
compeers. We notice three or four kinds together on 
the same ground are making a good succession ; first are 
Early Milan; second Munich; and third, the old White 
Dutch. The Early Milan stood well through the 
winter of 1885 ; the roots, which were about 2£ in. to 
3 in. in diameter, were covered with old mushroom 
manure. The Yellow Malta and others of this class 
are peculiarly suited for northern parts. The Whites 
are more valued in the south, but more from appear¬ 
ance than flavour. To get good sweet Turnips (not 
stringy and tough) from this time onward through the 
autumn, should be sown on firm ground (not poor and 
sandy) after it has been soaked with water ; we have 
fine showers at present (June 15th), which renders 
sowing and planting an easy matter. Dust well with 
soot to ward off slugs and black fly.— M. T. 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 
The principal work now is staking Beans and Peas 
as they advance in growth, regulating the length of 
the sticks for the latter according to the height of the 
varieties, which can be found in any catalogue. The 
dwarfest varieties of the American Wonder type will 
not need any sticks, and in some gardens the varieties 
of medium height are not staked either ; but they 
repay for the little trouble and expense in neatness and 
surety of crops. In many suburban gardens Beans of 
the Scarlet Runner type are extensively grown, and 
usually these are sow T n near the walls or fences. When 
this is done sticks may be dispensed with, and stout 
string employed instead, either stretching this hori¬ 
zontally or vertically if end posts or top and bottom 
pieces can be supplied. Ho vegetable is so useful for 
town gardens in summer as the Scarlet Runner, and if 
a few rows are grown in the open they are well worth 
the stakes required. 
Transplanting from seed-beds should still be pro¬ 
ceeding, and if any vegetables sown in rows or beds 
as permanent crops are too thick, give early attention 
to thinning. Sowing seeds thickly is a bad practice ; 
but after this has been done, if the plants produced are 
allowed to remain crowding and injuring each other, 
matters are made considerably worse, and satisfactory 
crops must not be expected. As soon as it is noticed 
that the plants are crowded, and they are large enough 
to be safe from the ravages of birds or insects, which 
often act very energetically as nature’s thinners, remove 
all the smallest, weakest, and least promising seedlings, 
leaving spaces corresponding -with the size the vegetables 
attain, so that they are quite clear of each other. 
Wherever large specimens are required, especially of 
root crops like Onions, Carrots, Parsnips, Turnips, &c., 
thinning must be liberally performed. 
Young plants newly placed out must be looked after 
carefully if slugs or grubs are abundant, or they will 
soon destroy the plants in large numbers, particularly 
those of the Cabbage family. Vegetable Marrows are 
also great favourites with these pests, and we have 
recently had considerable trouble with them. The 
best plan is to sprinkle the young plants freely -with 
soot, strewing it round their stems as well to a distance 
of 6 ins. or more ; this may be preferably done in the 
evening or early morning when the leaves are slightly 
damp with dew, as it causes the soot to adhere to the 
surface. Lime is used in the same w T ay, but we prefer 
the soot as it acts as an excellent manure, and seems 
to retain its efficacy longer than the lime ; the latter 
being of little use after a heavy shower. Visit the 
plants late in the evening, watching them continually, 
and when they have obtained a good hold of the soil, 
they will grow out of the way of these troublesome 
creatures, or become too tough for them to destroy. 
THE GREENHOUSE, 
The Vines we have previously mentioned will now 
probably have flowered and set their berries, though in 
unheated houses they are only j ust opening their flowers. 
We have two Black Hamburghs in a warm corner 
of the greenhouse, and the berries are swelling suffi¬ 
ciently to render thinning necessary. This is an 
important operation, and requires some little practice 
to become successful, as well as close observation and 
judgment. However well the berries may be set, it 
will be seen in a few days that some are swelling more 
rapidly than others, the first point is, therefore, to 
remove those which, from imperfect fertilisation or 
weakness, are small, and not likely to make full sized 
berries. Sufficient must, however, be left to form a 
compact, but not crowded bunch, and to do this 
thoroughly, the size the berries of the particular variety 
attain must be known, also considering the strength of 
the Vines. By all means avoid a thin loose bunch, as 
it has a most unsatisfactory appearance on the table, 
and if there is any danger of the Vines being overcropped, 
remove some of the bunches rather than thin the berries 
excessivel 3 r . Keep the lateral stopped one leaf beyond 
the previous stopping, and if the growths are at all 
crowded, keep them back to one joint beyond the fruit. 
After the berries have commenced swelling syringe the 
foliage liberally, as it is important to prevent red spider 
from making any progress.— Scolytus. 
