July 10, 1886. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
709 
loam, leaf-mould, cocoa-nut fibre, and coarse sand, in 
nearly equal parts. Only just cover tlie crown of the 
tuber with soil, and do not press tlie compost hard at 
first; two or three taps on the potting-bench will be 
almost sufficient. Now water them all in with a rose- 
can, and, if possible, plunge the pots in a steady 
bottom-heat of 70° or 75°, or, failing this, place on a 
shelf or stage in a warm house. Give no more water 
than is necessary to keep the soil barely moist until 
growth has fairly commenced, then never allow it to 
get thoroughly dry. When well in growth, remove 
the plants from the bottom-heat to a position near the 
glass, such as a high shelf, where they can have abun¬ 
dance of light, air, and a genial warmth around them ; 
but they must be carefully shaded from hot sunshine 
at this and, indeed, at all stages. 
In about a week, or when the roots are beginning to 
work round the sides of the pots, shift carefully into 
pots about 2 ins. larger, using still good drainage, and 
an open compost of the same character as before, but 
with less sand and fibre, and now make the soil fairly 
firm by the pressure of the fingers ; grow' on in a light 
W'arm house, with plenty of air in fine weather, and 
shade from hot sun. On bright days the syringe 
may be used freely among the plants in the morn¬ 
ings only, but keep them dryish towards nightfall, 
particularly in cool weather. If large plants are required, 
the tubers being of fair size to commence with, and 
satisfactory progress having been made, they may be 
again shifted W’hen fit, but remember that this, if done 
at all, must be done directly the roots fairly touch the 
sides of the pot they are in, for if left till in full bloom 
and pot-bound, the shift will do more harm than good. 
In fact, until they are fairly established in the size of 
pot they are intended to flower in, all buds should be 
picked off so as to concentrate the strength, for these 
double flowers take a great deal from the plant, and if 
allowed to develop before the plant is fit to bear the 
strain, the injurious effect are not often got out of 
during the whole season. 
When the plants have become well established, and 
the flower buds are rising, give a dose of weak liquid 
manure of some kind two or three times a week. A 
decoction of sheep-dung is about the best thing possible, 
if it can be obtained, but soot-water, or that made from 
ordinary stable manure, w'ill both be found beneficial, 
while a solution of sulphate of ammonia occasionally at 
the rate of a quarter to half-an-ounce to the gallon, 
imparts great vigour, and induces a very free and fine 
infloresence. 
The fuller and more abundant light the plants 
receive, the stronger and shorter will the growth be, 
and the finer and more lasting the blossoms. Shade 
must, how'ever, be given from anything approaching 
strong sunshine, v'hich speedily ruins the appearance 
of the blooms by causing the edges of the petals to 
shrivel. Permanent shading of any kind is very 
injurious, as it weakens the growth ; so that a move- 
able blind and roller is much the best, and indeed the 
only satisfactory arrangement. This should be run 
down directly the sun begins to strike strongly on the 
plants in the morning, and taken off again very shortly 
before it leaves the house. Free ventilation must also 
be afforded throughout, and particularly while the 
plants are in bloom. Avoid cutting draughts; and side 
ventilators, if there are any, should only be opened, 
especially if they give directly on to, in thoroughly 
calm and genial weather. Air must, however, be given 
abundantly at the apex of the roof, both by day and 
night during the summer, for if the atmosphere becomes 
at any time overheated, the plants and blooms will 
suffer. These Begonias always appear to succeed very 
much- better, particularly when grown under cool 
treatment, when standing on an open stage of boards or 
laths, with plenty of space below them, and free air all 
round. They also prefer a rather high house to one 
too low, though at the same time they should not be 
more than 2 ft. or 3 ft., at farthest, from the glass. 
During the earlier stages, and particularly if the 
plants are started into growth in good time, sufficient 
fire-heat to afford a genial warmth—say, a range of 60° 
to 65°—is, of course, a necessity ; but as soon as the 
genial summer weather sets in, which generally occurs 
about the end of May or early part of June, firing may 
be discontinued; indeed, the plants will do better 
without it, and unless spells of dull and cold or rainy 
weather occur, no more artificial heat will be required 
until the long, cool and damp nights of late September 
or October return, when a gentle heat in the pipes will 
be found beneficial, promoting a circulation of air, and 
dispelling stagnant moisture. 
The raising of Begonias from seed, either of the 
single or double forms, but especially the latter, is a 
most interesting occupation, provided only that the 
necessary amount of time can be spared and suitable 
conveniences are available. The seed, which is very 
fine, should be sown as soon after the days begin per¬ 
ceptibly to lengthen as possible—say, during the third 
or fourth week in January, or, at the most, not later 
than the 1st of March. It must be scattered on a very 
finely sifted surface of rich open soil, such as that men¬ 
tioned .as suitable for starting the tubers, with extra 
free drainage, and it must not be covered except by the 
merest dusting of fine soil. A steady heat of about 70° 
is necessary to insure germination, and it-is advisable 
to cover the seed pans with pieces of glass, and to keep 
it in darkness until the seedlings appear, so as to 
prevent evaporation, and do away with the necessity 
for watering before the young plants are visible. But 
they must not be covered too closely, or mildew may 
appear and do a great deal of damage. When the 
plants are up keep evenly moist and in as full light as 
possible, but shaded from direct sunshine. Directly 
the seedlings can be manipulated, they must be pricked 
off into other pots, pans, or boxes, similarly prepared 
to those used for sowing. The sooner this operation is 
performed the better, and it should certainly not be 
left longer than when the first rough leaf is wholly or 
partly developed. They must now be grown on quickly 
in a genial v'armth, with a fair amount of moisture, 
which should principally be given in the morning. 
When large enough they should be again transplanted 
into other boxes, placing them this time, 1| ins. or 2 
ins. apart, or they may, if strong, be potted singly 
into “ thumbs” (2 in. pots), grown on for a time, and 
when fit, be shifted into small 48’s, (4^ in. pots), in 
which they will flower well the same summer or 
autumn, or at least sufficiently well to show their 
character, for my experience is that double Begonias do 
not come to perfection until the second season. 
The very best seed that can be saved will not pro¬ 
duce more than 50 to 75 per cent, of double flowers, 
so that no one must be disappointed at finding a few 
singles in a batch of seedlings, and these are almost 
sure to open first. As they come into bloom, mark all 
those that appear to be worth keeping, bearing in mind 
that if they are of good form and colour and thoroughly 
double, they will be certain to improve greatly as 
regards size w'hen grown on strongly from the tuber the 
following season. Double Begonias may be also pro¬ 
pagated from cuttings, which strike more freely than 
those of single kinds, and yet need great care to get 
them to make plants. Stubby side-shoots with a heel 
are best, taken from sturdy, well-hardened plants. 
They must be slightly dried, and then inserted singly 
in a very open sandy soil with very free drainage, and 
kept somewhat close and shaded until struck, when 
they may be potted on. All who have not done so 
should try a few of these exquisite flowering plants.— 
THE FLOWER HOUSE. 
A very gay effect can be now provided in conserva¬ 
tories or greenhouses if due preparation has been 
previously made, and at no time of year can such a variety 
cf attractions be had as in June and early Julj’, when the 
season is not excessively hot. Two classes of plants 
alone, the tuberous Begonias, and the Pelargoniums, in 
their numerous types of zonal, show, and fancy varieties, 
constitute a brilliant show of colours. But there are 
many other plants to be added to these, for we have 
Carnations in capital condition now, Petunias are bright 
and fragrant, Rhodanthes are graceful, Calceolarias still 
furnish an abundance of their varied handsome slippers, 
and we have numerous plants of Harrison’s Musk. 
Particular favourites are the early Gladiolus Colvilli 
albus and Rosy Gem, the former pure white, and the 
latter a bright rosy crimson. Both these are admirably 
adapted for culture in pots, and we have grown a large 
stock of the white variety for many years, as it cannot 
be too highly estimated for decorative purposes. 
Chrysanthemum frutescens, and its pale golden variety 
Etoile d’Or, are indispensable, so are Spiraeas, and Can¬ 
terbury Bells which are favourites with us in pots for 
early flowering, and supply some agreeable purple and 
blue shades. 
Roses in pots are also still affording abundant blooms, 
and when we wish to impart a little extra refinement to 
the effect, we introduce a few Masdevallias, Odonto- 
glossums, and Epidendrum vitellinums, and there is no 
lack of colour or beauty.— G. 
-- 
ON THE MANAGEMENT OF THE 
CHRYSANTHEMUM IN VIEW OF 
COMPETITION.—II. 
It may be asked, “ When is the best time to remove 
the plants from the frames or greenhouses, in which 
they have been wintered, into the open air ?” and in 
reply I must confess I cannot lay down any definite 
date. As soon as the weather becomes mild enough for 
them, so soon must they be exposed to its influences. 
As a rule, the end of April or the beginning of May 
will be safe, and in selecting a position, care must be 
taken to secure one on which the sun falls the whole 
day, if possible. A full south aspect is best, with pro¬ 
tection on the north and east. My own plants stand 
on an asphalted walk on the south side of a wall 5 ft. 
high, where they have the full benefit of the sun from 
seven o’clock in the morning to six in the evening. 
This exposure to the sun is essential in order to ripen 
the wood, without which no good blooms will ever be 
produced. The branches must feel hard and firm when 
handled, and the foliage vigorous ; leaves should be 
broad, and feel thick when held between the finger and 
thumb, and the more brittle they are the better. 
I will now deal with the soil most suitable in which 
to grow the Chrysanthemum, a matter of the highest 
importance in order to ensure success ; for although it 
will grow in any fairly rich garden soil, yet for special 
culture something more suitable than this must be pro¬ 
vided. Sods pared off a rich old pasture, 3 ins. in 
Pancratium catiib.eum. 
