1882 .] 
SHADING FOR ORCHIDS. 
71 
a permanent shading to bo used, we should 
frequently—especially during dull weather— 
have our plants in comparative darkness, when 
they should be getting all the light possible. 
This cannot fail to lead to bad results, and 
produce a sickly growth. 
What is required is a strong durable material 
that will wear well, and where rollers are used, 
stand the strain upon it. Some growers use 
thick canvas; indeed we have done so our¬ 
selves many years ago, but, by experience, we 
have found out the ill-effects of it, for when we 
employed this kind of shading we found the 
plants under its influence became weak and 
sickly, producing small puny flower-spikes. 
A lighter shading was then employed, and the 
difference was marvellous ; the plants assumed 
quite a different aspect. It was at this time 
that we were exhibiting at Chiswick the fine 
specimens of East Indian Orchids—Aerides, 
Saccolabiums, Yandas, Dendrobiums, and 
many others—such as we seldom see equalled 
now. Since then we have used thinner 
shadings with the best results. Our Yandas 
thus treated have always been strong and 
healthy, with broader foliage, producing their 
flower-spikes as often as three times a year, 
with the flowers of a good colour, lasting a 
long time in perfection ; in fact we are never 
without flowers, always having a good display, 
more particularly of the suavis and tricolor 
section. Some people imagine Vandas do not 
flower till they attain a large size, but such is 
not the case if they are properly grown, and a 
thin shading is used. 
Our experience leads us to the belief that 
all Orchids, with a few exceptions, require a 
thin shading—that is to say, one that, while 
warding off the direct rays of the sun, will 
allow the light to enter through it. To arrive 
at this result we use a strong, durable, cotton 
netting, woven in small squares, close enough 
to exclude the rays of the sun, while the light 
penetrates it with but little interruption. This 
netting stands exposure to the weather much 
longer than canvas, and on that account is 
cheaper in the long run. We have used this 
material for some years, in the case of cool 
Orchids, Mexican, and East Indian kinds, with 
the best results, the netting being attached 
to rollers with appropriate gear. For the cool 
Orchid houses we employ raised blinds, which 
can be managed with but little trouble. Many 
growers keep their blinds on during the winter 
months, and let them down at night to keep 
out frost. We, however, have always found 
that where the houses are well heated, such 
protection is not required ; and besides, this 
exposure to the weather in the winter time is 
very detrimental to the blinds. In the winter, 
therefore, we take them off the house, and put 
them in a dry place until they are required 
again in the ensuing spring. 
During the summer months we have found 
Raised Blinds very beneficial to the growth 
of Orchids, especially to those requiring cool 
house culture. When the hot summer sun is 
shining upon the glass, it is very difficult, 
where raised blinds are not employed, to 
keep the temperature sufficiently low. The 
glass roof of the structure upon which the sun 
is shining, becomes very hot, even when shaded 
in the ordinary way ; but if raised blinds are 
used, a current of air is allowed to pass over 
the entire surface of the roof, and the glass is 
kept comparatively cool. The effect of this 
is, to decrease very appreciably the internal 
temperature of the house ; and the moisture, 
which would otherwise be dried up by the 
burning heat of the sun, produces a nice 
humid, genial atmosphere in which Orchids 
delight. 
Having thus far referred to the advantages 
to be derived from the use of this method of 
shading, we may now explain briefly the mode 
of construction. Supposing that the house to 
be furnished with raised blinds is an ordinary 
span-roofed structure, it is necessary in the 
first place to provide a second ridge, elevated 
about six inches above the top of the existing 
one. This should not consist of a solid plank, 
but of a strip of timber sufficiently strong to 
bear the weight and strain of the blinds and 
roller, and should be supported on blocks of 
wood placed at intervals in order to allow the 
current of air from below to find an outlet, 
which would not be the case if a solid ridge- 
board were adopted. Having arranged for the 
ridge, the next thing is to provide supports 
for the rollers. Either wood or iron may be used 
for this purpose, but we have found iron to 
be the lightest looking and the most durable. 
Where the length of the rafters does not ex¬ 
ceed say eight feet, half-inch rod iron will be 
