9 
CULTURAL NOTES. 
SOIL. —The ideal soil for a general collection of Daffodils is a sandy loam, with a 
well-drained subsoil. If too sandy, a great improvement may be effected by digging in 
some good loam, and in any case the soil must be deeply dug. If it is too stiff, much 
good may be done by the addition of sand, peat and leaf mould, and, as clay subsoils are 
often sour, they should not be brought to the surface except in small quantities when 
digging. 
MANURES. —Where practicable the ground should be well enriched for a 
previous crop. For light soils farmyard manure is best used, as this retains moisture and 
keeps the ground cool. On stiffer loams stable manure should be used, in order to keep 
the soil as open as possible. We also recommend giving the ground a dusting of Bone 
Meal previous to planting, and we can supply a special finely ground quality for this 
purpose. 
TIME OF PLANTING. —Daffodils will flower if planted as late as Christmas, but 
if best results as to bloom and vigour are wanted, the work cannot be carried out too soon 
after the beginning of August, and all choice varieties should be planted by the end of 
September. 
DEPTH TO PLANT •—This varies according to the size of bulb and the nature 
of the soil. In an average loam it is a safe rule to cover the bulb with times its own 
depth, planting a little deeper if the soil is sandy, or shallower in heavy ground. The 
distance apart should be 3 to 6 inches, according to size. 
LIFTING. —In the majority of cases it is best to lift Daffodils every other season, 
removing the offset bulbs carefully and replanting at once in good fresh soil. Many 
Daffodils do not produce full sized flowers until they have been grown in the same 
position for two years, and varieties which increase but slowly may be left undisturbed 
for three years. We do not recommend amateurs to dry off their bulbs at all. 
The time of lifting varies according to the season, and should not be commenced until 
the leaves have almost turned brown : the end of June and first half of July are usually 
safe times for the Midlands. 
GROWING IN POTS. —Early potting is essential if Daffodils are required to 
bloom in January and February, as no bulbs can be successfully forced unless they are 
allowed sufficient time in which to make good root growth before being brought into a 
warm house. 
When potting, place some rough turf or well-rotted manure over the crocks and plant 
the bulbs in good fibrous loam, to which a dusting of Bone Meal has been added, 
together with a little leaf mould and wood ashes to keep the compost open. The bulbs 
should not touch each other, and should be pressed gently into position, covering with 
just sufficient soil to hide the tops. Then place in a cold frame or cellar, plunging the 
pots in fibre, bracken or other clean material, and leave them there for eight to twelve 
weeks, examining occasionally to see that the soil is not getting too dry. As soon as two 
or three inches of growth have been made, remove to a cold frame or greenhouse for ten 
days and then into a warmer house, where they should have all the light possible, with 
frequent damping of the floor and staging. 
Instructions as to growing in bowls of fibre will be found in our General Bulb 
Catalogue. 
For stirring and loosening the soil among Daffodils or any other bulbs, we cannot too 
strongly recommend the “ Caxton ” and “ Buco ” Cultivators. 
